Valvoline Maxlife for $2.99 at NAPA this month is a better deal IMO. But there are even better deals. I thought Pep Boys had a coupon/rebate this week for Maxlife at $2 a quart, but may be limit of 5 or 6. Also Pep Boys has some 69 cent after rebate deals.
10w40
- Thread starter DevilDisco
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They don't void your warranty for a particular brand oil only if you use a non recommended viscosity.
If you're sure enough to use a non recommended viscosity, you're not worried about warranty problems anyway.
If you're sure enough to use a non recommended viscosity, you're not worried about warranty problems anyway.
Well the way the manual reads it seem like the engine should use 10W40 but if I can't get some for some reason 10w30 would be ok. The dealer put's 5W30 in it and tells me to change it ever 3k miles. So who do you believe the book that says 10w40 and 7,500 OCI, or the dealer that put in 5w30 and says change every 3k. I suspect they can put 5w30 in all the other engines and they don't want to special order 10w40. Now putting 0W20 that might be tempting fate, even though I'm curious? I can't take that risk though. I'd like the protection and quieter engine on startup would be nice.
Get a real oil pressure gauge and it you get good (spec) pressure with 10w30, then run it. If not, step up to 10w40.
Unless the manufacturer wants the higher HT/HS viscosity of 10w40, then you could run something like Maxlife Synthetic 10w30 and get a very good HT/HS of 3.6 vs typical 10w30 is around 3.0. Regular Maxlife 10w30 was 3.3 last I checked.
Unless the manufacturer wants the higher HT/HS viscosity of 10w40, then you could run something like Maxlife Synthetic 10w30 and get a very good HT/HS of 3.6 vs typical 10w30 is around 3.0. Regular Maxlife 10w30 was 3.3 last I checked.
A good all around oil for you would be Rotella T Synthetic 5W40. You get better protection and better startup flow if that's when your getting your noise. Plus, it does play well with auto-rx and it's only $15-16 a gallon. I echo the rest of the folks who say stay away from Lucas.
So should I Auto-RX, the engine again to get rid of the LUCAS Heavey Duty Oil Stabilizer or will it all come out with the next oil change?
Any Thoughts on using GC?
I've been browsing throught the threads and see that it's closer to a 40 weight oil, assuming I could find some would that work pretty much the same as the Rotella?
Is the 40 weight going to kill the mileage?
Any Thoughts on using GC?
I've been browsing throught the threads and see that it's closer to a 40 weight oil, assuming I could find some would that work pretty much the same as the Rotella?
Is the 40 weight going to kill the mileage?
If my owner's manual said to use 10W-40, I'd be all over it.
10W-40 is my favourite viscosity, but since my vehicles say 10w30, I have to go with that. But. . . I can still push the 10w30 up to the high limit of a 30W; which I do.
10W-40 is my favourite viscosity, but since my vehicles say 10w30, I have to go with that. But. . . I can still push the 10w30 up to the high limit of a 30W; which I do.
I browsed the local wal-mart the other night I I don't recall seeing the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40. The hunt is on for either shell or the Castrol Syntec 0w30. I think I start with the Shell to help clean the engine up a bit. I'm still partial to the 3k OCI's until I can get an oil analysis. Should I do one before I swithc over so I have something to compare it to.
Do you think I can get to the 7,500 OCI with these oils or would that be stressing it too much?
This whole thread got started because I don't think the engine has seen 10w40 since it left the factory. I took advantage of the dealer oil changes and I'm pretty sure they only put in 5w30 possilby Synthetic but I knew that by the time I reached 7,500miles the dealer told me it was down a quart and the engine would tap all the time. Hot or Cold, since then it only does it when cold. I'm hoping the 5w40 will stop the tap at start up, and quiet the engine over all.
It does seem as though the Lucas has helped somewhat but but I'd rather have a good quality oil and use what's left of my AUTO-RX.
Do you think I can get to the 7,500 OCI with these oils or would that be stressing it too much?
This whole thread got started because I don't think the engine has seen 10w40 since it left the factory. I took advantage of the dealer oil changes and I'm pretty sure they only put in 5w30 possilby Synthetic but I knew that by the time I reached 7,500miles the dealer told me it was down a quart and the engine would tap all the time. Hot or Cold, since then it only does it when cold. I'm hoping the 5w40 will stop the tap at start up, and quiet the engine over all.
It does seem as though the Lucas has helped somewhat but but I'd rather have a good quality oil and use what's left of my AUTO-RX.
Another viable option which no one has mentioned is Mobil 1 High Mileage oil, available only in 10W30 and 10W40. It is stated to be a little thicker than their regular oils, and to have extra anti-wear additives. It is NOT SM rated, but, rather, SL rated. This is a desirable feature to me, as I seldom hear of anyone having a stopped up catalytic converter, anyway.
D.Disco,
I had one of those Buick engine in a 1991 RR Classic. I got it at 63K amd sold it at 178K to a friend who's now at 187K miles.
At about 100K I had a slight, constant ticking at idle (lifters) so I did a flushing cycle; 1K OCI for a year.
Then started to use WIX 51459 filter which was x2 stock filter size. Cleared frame barely and required rubber strap wrench. The dirty filters were really heavy so I called it a dirty engine.
I used 20W50 GTX (N.Cal.)and change the oil at 3.5K. Put in 7qt (spec is 6.7) and added 1 qt ~1.7K during the OCI.
Rapping at start-up seems to be more of a problem with thinner (at cold) oils. 15W45 not out of the question. HM stuff will help seals if that's an issue, otherwise generally forget them unless you can get good deals like 10W40 Maxlife at Walmart 5qt $11.
Also, the transmission at 187K is original. Check and see if you have drain plug. If so, drain the fluid every x2-3 oil changes and replace. Only ~50% comes out due to torque convertor. So in 5 changes all fresh fluid. Do it for life.
I had one of those Buick engine in a 1991 RR Classic. I got it at 63K amd sold it at 178K to a friend who's now at 187K miles.
At about 100K I had a slight, constant ticking at idle (lifters) so I did a flushing cycle; 1K OCI for a year.
Then started to use WIX 51459 filter which was x2 stock filter size. Cleared frame barely and required rubber strap wrench. The dirty filters were really heavy so I called it a dirty engine.
I used 20W50 GTX (N.Cal.)and change the oil at 3.5K. Put in 7qt (spec is 6.7) and added 1 qt ~1.7K during the OCI.
Rapping at start-up seems to be more of a problem with thinner (at cold) oils. 15W45 not out of the question. HM stuff will help seals if that's an issue, otherwise generally forget them unless you can get good deals like 10W40 Maxlife at Walmart 5qt $11.
Also, the transmission at 187K is original. Check and see if you have drain plug. If so, drain the fluid every x2-3 oil changes and replace. Only ~50% comes out due to torque convertor. So in 5 changes all fresh fluid. Do it for life.
http://www.rangerovers.net/
See above site rangerover. net for all kinds of good info on RR's. You can save money by sourcing AC Delco parts since you now know the heritage.
See above site rangerover. net for all kinds of good info on RR's. You can save money by sourcing AC Delco parts since you now know the heritage.
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Just had the 60k service about 1 month ago, so the transmission should have fresh fluid, as well as the diff's and transfercase. I know the dealer put in 5w30 not sure of the brand but since I don't have to do oil changes with them. Two weeks ago I cleaned the MAF and realized just yesterday that I have had the K&N for a year, so I put a new OEM filter in theres while I'm cleaning the K&n.
I trying to find a good oil I can stick with. I only have the tick in the morning when I first start the engine and through out the day after the Disco has sat for a few hours. I'm going on the hunt today to see if I can find Castrol Syntec 0w30. I'm one of the AZ's around here carry it. I'm really curious to see what happens. I think I'll say away from 15WXX, because winter is coming and it can get quite cold down here, even though for the past few weeks it's been hitting like +100 degrees outside.
Thanks for the tip on RR.net. I do go over there and lurk quite often, but I'm a regular poster at LandRoversonly.com and frequent DiscoWeb. Not too much talk of experimenting with oil and an overhaul for the engine seems to be a common thing between 100-200k. I'm hoping with the right oil and OCI's I can go longer.
I don't have many leaks only the transfercase that drips about 1-2 drops of oil a night. The bolts needs some kind of sealant but normally is good until the next OCI. Thankfully I shouldn't have to see the dealer until I hit 90k which I predict will be in another 2 years.
I'll try the WIX. I try to use the K&N 3001. It is also twice as long as the stock filter. Eventually I may switch everything over to AMSOIL, and get one of their Oil Filtration and bypass kits and pre-lubrication system by they aren't cheap, and I'm almost due for new rotors and brakes.
I'd like to decrease the starup wear. I don't mind the disco sounds like a diesel in the morning but I am concerned about the wear that might accompany the noise.
I trying to find a good oil I can stick with. I only have the tick in the morning when I first start the engine and through out the day after the Disco has sat for a few hours. I'm going on the hunt today to see if I can find Castrol Syntec 0w30. I'm one of the AZ's around here carry it. I'm really curious to see what happens. I think I'll say away from 15WXX, because winter is coming and it can get quite cold down here, even though for the past few weeks it's been hitting like +100 degrees outside.
Thanks for the tip on RR.net. I do go over there and lurk quite often, but I'm a regular poster at LandRoversonly.com and frequent DiscoWeb. Not too much talk of experimenting with oil and an overhaul for the engine seems to be a common thing between 100-200k. I'm hoping with the right oil and OCI's I can go longer.
I don't have many leaks only the transfercase that drips about 1-2 drops of oil a night. The bolts needs some kind of sealant but normally is good until the next OCI. Thankfully I shouldn't have to see the dealer until I hit 90k which I predict will be in another 2 years.
I'll try the WIX. I try to use the K&N 3001. It is also twice as long as the stock filter. Eventually I may switch everything over to AMSOIL, and get one of their Oil Filtration and bypass kits and pre-lubrication system by they aren't cheap, and I'm almost due for new rotors and brakes.
I'd like to decrease the starup wear. I don't mind the disco sounds like a diesel in the morning but I am concerned about the wear that might accompany the noise.
Went to 2 AZ's around work at lunch. The shelve was packed with GC, all made in 07 for 6.09 per quart. With a 6 pack for $36.54, found Shell Rotell T but it was 15w40, is that too thick?
DevilDisco, I have an '02 Disco pushing 97,000 miles. Mine has never ticked at start-up or any other time. I've used a variety of oil since I bought it with 58,000 miles on it. I've done several used oil analysis. They seem to show that using a K&N air filter is a quick way to engine death. I used it for two seperate OCIs, just to be sure the poor used oil analysis results were repeatable, unfortunately they were and silicon and lower engine wear metals shot-up when running the K&N air filter. The best used oil analysis I've ever gotten on mine was with Lubro Moly 0w40. My Rover returned a respectable used oil analysis with that oil. The used oil analysis I did with GC wasn't exactly stellar, but not in the toilet either. I have Pentosynthetic 5w40 in mine right now and we'll see how the used oil analysis looks in another 1,000 miles or so. You can tell I'm partial to the more robust formulations found in oils of German manufactor. Others on this board have has nice used oil analysis with the Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 you're looking to run and you probably would be fine using it. I believe your dealer doesn't know what they're doing. They are stocking 5w30 for the newer Jaguar V8s in the LR3 and RR, and neglecting the older Discos. This engine was designed in the early 60s when engine and lubrication management were as yet unrefined. LR put better fuel induction on it, but I'd bet that they didn't alter the basic lubrication design from the 60s, which would have called for a heavier oil. Most of the Rover guys I know who change their own oil use 20w50 conventional. Whichever route you go, I'd advise to stay thick and thicker. I'm toying with moving to a xxw50 synthetic when I use up all my German stash.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck. Chris
Just my 2 cents. Good luck. Chris
+1 to what ccdhowell said.
The Rotella Synthetic will be in a seperate section with the 15w40 truck oils. It will work well with Auto-Rx. I think I saw it at AA. 15w40 is a good choice for summer, although a 10w-40 Hi-Mi is great too, not usable with the Auto-Rx. MaxLife conventional 10w40 would be the ticket after Auto-Rx. Castrol High Mileage is even thicker. In your climate, those or Mobil 1 10w30 Hi-Miles is good all year.
Not what I wanted to hear about the K&N. After I take this one out of the Disco, because I "DO" want to keep it for a long time. I'll have 3 of these types of filters in the garage. None improved mileage, with protection being suspect.
I acutally went to Bilouxi(spelling) for the weekend, so by Friday I'm due for the oil change. I found the Shell Rotella T 15w40 next to some Delo in AZ. That an Auto-Rx is looking good right now. They also stock long K&N oil fiters for the disco. Are those good or are they junk like the Air Filters?
Will the 15w40 be too think if I end up running it in the winter? It does not snow in this part of Georgia but it does get cold but I don't think below 25 degrees with the wind chill.
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