10w40

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You should be fine with the 15w40 down to 25*, wind chill doesn't count for vehicles, just skin. I haven't heard nearly the bad remarks from the K&N oil filters, I ran one once, but have settled on a long Purolator PureOne filter for mine.

I have 2 K&Ns in my garage, or I should say I had them. Threw them away earlier this year to remove the temptation to ever run them again.

Cheers, Chris
 
Delvac 1300s CJ formulation has a viscosity of 114 cst at 40 degrees, which is pretty low and approaching a 10w-40. I want to find the specs for the new CJ Rotella 15w40, but can't find them. Anybody know?
 
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They also stock long K&N oil fiters for the disco. Are those good or are they junk like the Air Filters?




K&N OIL filters have shown to work pretty well. Ihey are especially good for high performance vehicles where you want to minimize any oil filter restriction. I use them on my Z06.

Hammer
 
Castrol Syntec 0w30(Made in Germany) was on sale. I picked up 7 quarts and a long K&N oil filter. For an extra $3 I went to the base hobby shop where they showed me how to use the lift to raise the vehicle and change the oil.
The filter took about 1/2 a quart to fill. I put about 6 qts with 1/2 qt left over.
The vehicle does seem a little different but not sure why yet. The tap on startup took a little more listening to hear this morning but it didn't sound like I was hiding a belly dancer under the hood like normaly. Valve train noise is no different than when I had the Lucas in it, not noticeable.
The engine sees to rev a little more freely but I'll have to fill up to see if it has had any affect on mileage.
I'm still curious about the OCI, so I guess the next step is an oil analysis at 3k. I know some Rover owners that run Mobil Synthetic oil for only 3k. It would be nice to get to 7,500k without sludging up the engine or causing unnecessary wear.
I was curious about GC but Shell Rotella T is still on the list. I figure I should try the GC first because the 15w40 would be the thickest oil the vehicle has probably seen assuming it left the factory with 10w40.
 
DD,

I took my 1991 up to Lake Tahoe for skiing with GTX 20W50. It did not get really cold over night, maybe 20-25F.

It started in morning but was a bit slow in doing so.

I lived in N.England and Roch.NY for almost 20 yrs so I know cold starts. I worry about the starter and solenoid more than the engine in these conditions.
 
DD, good luck with the GC. It is a great oil, and their aren't many. I don't know why it didn't return stellar numbers in my Disco. I'd be interested in seeing the UOA when you get it done.

One more Lubro-Moly 0w40 fill left in my stash, then I'll be hunting again. Chris
 
I have a little over 400miles on GC. The tap on startup is not that bad at idle but when I first drive away in the morning there is a lot of valvetrain clatter until the engine the oil is warm, after that very smooth.
The first tank I spent most of it rushing to work and got 14mpg. Normally I'd expect 13mpg. After the second fill up. I got 16.6mpg with no change in driving habbits. Which I think is very good. I'd have to be on the highway to see that. I took a short trip down 82, a lot of hills and I normally get 14 mpg on that run, 16 almost 17 is really good.
I'm happy with the mileage increase but does the vlavetrain clatter mean I'm wearing something out, for those first few minutes in the morning? Will a pre lubrication system help?
How long does it take GC to clean an engine?
 
Tried the Castrol Syntec 0w30 and I don't think the Rover likes it. It's pretty quiet on Start up but way to much clatter ever time I accelerate. I have 1600mils on the oil and the clatter does not seem to be subsididng. I'm thiking it needs the 40 weight to keep quiet.
Aside from the noise the Rover is good, no signs of overheating, no oil light flickers(never had that happend). Vehicle feel like it could pull a train but it's just very noisy. The clatter leaves me to believe that some kind of wear may be going on so I'm going to us a 40 weight.
 
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