10w30 synthetics?

[53' Stude]

Is there a need for a 10w30 synthetic oil? I am in a climate where I probably use 10w30 syn PUP 10w30 in the Jeep and that's about it. Just wondering as it seems from what I read that 0w20, 5w20, 0w40 and 5w30 synthetics seem more common or I don't know how to explain it. Please discuss

 

[Torrid]

I like 10w-30 for low NOACK/shear stability. I am using conventional but will likely try Platinum or Ultra in the same grade. I am in a desert climate though.

 

[901Memphis]

10w30 synthetics work great in small engines like lawnmowers, especially loaded ones like Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30

 

[skyactiv]

Some 10W30's show fantastically low NOACK numbers. So I can't fault someone living in Miami or Phoenix using it in something calling for 5W30.

 

[TTK]

In my opinion, if you live in an area where temperatures range between 0F and 100F, 10w-30 is actually better than 5w-30 because of lower NOAK, usually 50% less NOAK value, and there will not be much difference at 0F.
If you tow a lot , then you might want a 0w_40 or 5w-40.

 

[PandaBear]

Low Noack is ideal if you have direct injection.

 

[BAJA_05]

I did the math car51. You average 9 posts a day for the last 374 days!!!

You Luv It!!!

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: Torrid
I like 10w-30 for low NOACK/shear stability.


+1. They are often remarkably more robust than 5w-30. Look at the specs on quality ones like PP and M1. I use them wherever I can. Fortunately I can run them year-round, but if I did not I would still switch in the summer.

 

[hatt]

10w-30 syns look like great choices for us folks down south. If we're going to ask whether we need 10w-30 then 5w-30 syn goes on trial next. If extreme cold start ability is going to be the deciding factor why go half way.

 

[CATERHAM]

It's been discussed a lot in past threads but 10W-30 is an obsolete oil grade as virtually no manufacturer specifies it any more.
In fact a 10W-30 "synthetic" has never been specified as it's technically redundant. The reason is that you can formulate a shear stable 5W-30 and even a 0W-30 with acceptable shear stability so why settle for a low viscosity index 10W-30 with all the inherent disadvantages?
It's worth noting that the most advanced race oils are now 0W-XX and the reason of course has nothing to do with cold starting at extremely cold temp's.

 

[wemay]

Strange but 10W30 outsells all else in the shops i frequent. By far.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Doesn't PYB 10W30 have a really low NOACK, just above 4%?
Seems like a good budget choice in the right climate.

 

[SR5]

I think with synthetic oils 5W-30 and 0W-40 are the global standards, pretty much for the reason they should work anywhere in the world.

I like 10W-30 synthetic oils, but it can't be a global oil since 10W may not be good enough for winter starting in very cold climates.

I live in a very warm climate, so it will do me fine. The advantages are it should have a low VII load and be more shear stable, plus a low noack volatility. I've seen 10W-30 synthetics with a noack of 6 to 7% and probably without using exotic GTL or PAO base stock.

My dream oil (today) is a full synthetic 10W-30 that is ACEA A3/B4, I've haven't found one yet.

 

[Stelth]

Doesn't Amsoil make a 10w-30 that has no VII's in it? I also remember hearing quite a few years ago that Mobil 1 10w-30 didn't need any VII's. I don't know if that's still the case, but it's pretty cool that a multigrade oil can be formulated with synthetic base stocks that doesn't need VII's.

 

[53' Stude]

Thanks for the information and facts folks. Learned a lot more than I knew before in this subject

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's been discussed a lot in past threads but 10W-30 is an obsolete oil grade as virtually no manufacturer specifies it any more.
In fact a 10W-30 "synthetic" has never been specified as it's technically redundant. The reason is that you can formulate a shear stable 5W-30 and even a 0W-30 with acceptable shear stability so why settle for a low viscosity index 10W-30 with all the inherent disadvantages?
It's worth noting that the most advanced race oils are now 0W-XX and the reason of course has nothing to do with cold starting at extremely cold temp's.
What's the disadvantage of running a 10w-30 around here where the avg cold start is in the 70s? Your theory about cold oil doing whatever during warmup clearly isn't meshing with reality. If engines couldn't handle cold oil Northern roads would be littered with broken down vehicles. My PP 10W-30 was thinner this morning than your TGMO 0w-20.

 

[umungus1122]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Strange but 10W30 outsells all else in the shops i frequent. By far.

Well considering you're in S. Florida, it's not strange at all. If it never go's below 45 where you live, there's no reason to use 5w-30. You might as well take advantage of the higher NOACK in the heat.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: Torrid
I like 10w-30 for low NOACK/shear stability. I am using conventional but will likely try Platinum or Ultra in the same grade. I am in a desert climate though.


that doesn't really apply to synthetics

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Torrid
I like 10w-30 for low NOACK/shear stability. I am using conventional but will likely try Platinum or Ultra in the same grade. I am in a desert climate though.


that doesn't really apply to synthetics


Why not ?

 

[CATERHAM]

Wow lots of oil myths being perpetuated here.

-What's wrong with VIIs? Nothing, and the best are very shear stable.

-While a super low Noack is nice what's the advantage vs a good Noack in the 9-11% range? Lower oil consumption? Not that anyone can measure. Cleaner intake tract? Not if the oil itself leaves high deposit levels.

And even if you discount the cold start advantages because you live in a warm climate you've still got the increased high temperature viscosity loss due to the oil's low VI.

So I'll pass on the 10W-30 grade for any highly stressed engine I value.