10w30 Havoline 4900 mi. on 97 Grand Prix GT

[wlkjr1951]

Mi on Oil 4900 5000 Universal
Mi on Unit 264,500 239,850 Averages
Sample date 04/10/04 05/21/03

Aluminum 2 2 3
Chromium 0 0 1
Iron 5 5 18
Copper 7 8 13
Lead 2 2 8
Tin 0 1 1
Moly 53 1 35
Nickel 1 0 0
Manganese 0 0 0
Silver 0 0 0
Titanium 0 0 0
Potassium 29 18 3
Boron 60 3 40
Silicon 5 4 11
Sodium 2 3 25
Calcium 1726 1926 1891
Magnesium 29 55 236
Phosphorous 732 761 769
Zinc 910 985 931
Barium 0 0 0

This is the second sample in the last year. I'm the original owner and have used only Havoline 10W30. I change every 5000 miles which is usually about every 8 weeks. I have used the orange filter for the last two years. Guess there goes all my credibility. Seems some of the elements have changed a good bit from the first to the second sample. Has the oil changed closer to what Chevron is? All comments welcome.

 

[jthorner]

Wear metals look really good. However, Potassium is running high which on our GM vehicle turned out to be a warning sign of coolant getting into the oil due to a small leak at the intake manifold. Considering how common such leaks are on GM engines and the relatively high mileage on yours this is something you might want to keep a close eye on.

Wear wise these look like excellent numbers at 5,000 miles.

John

 

[Patman]

Very nice! Definitely one of the best 3.8 reports we've seen! This engine looks to be able to go 300-400k without batting an eye.

 

[haley10]

You report is better than mine with Mobil 1. Great report.

The Potassium may be a potential problem for sure. Mine is Zero (0). Plus yours increased slightly.

GM changed the manifold bolts and used the seal tabs on mine. No leaks yet.

I think you have a problem developing. Keep an eye out. Fantastic wear numbers!!

 

[novadude]

Potassium trnding up is a concern, but otherwise, this is an outstanding report!

 

[powermite]

Im not an oil guru like you guys but can I take this report as meaning Texaco Havoline would be good for all engines.Ive got a brand new chev 350ZZ4 which was broken in on the dyno in the states before shipping here in the UK.I want to put the best quality mineral oil in it.GM recommend 10W30 so would this Havoline be a good choice?
PM

 

[wlkjr1951]

Powermite, I've used Havoline almost exclusively in my vehicles since 1971. Never had an issue with any oil related problems. I put about 300K miles on a Grand Am and it still ran like a top the day I sold it. Personally, I think it would be a great oil to use.

 

[doyall]

quote:

---

Guess there goes all my credibility.

---

We'll just question your judgment, not your credibility!

 

[Schmoe]

Nice! The big 3, Fe/Pb/Cu, have come done, even at this mileage. Sweet. I got the 3.3l engine, which is the cousin to the 3.8. I had to replace the intake at about 30K, still under warranty though. Other than the coil pack and new plugs and wires, it's been the best engine I've ever owned by far.

 

[powermite]

Ive checked with the local Texaco dealers and the only mineral oil is Havoline 15W40 premium.
Will 15W40 be Ok for my chevy.GM specifies 10w30 but this is proving difficult to find here in the UK
My only other option is Castrol GTX 15W40

what do you think??

PM

 

[wlkjr1951]

Guess you could change countries.

Then you could find almost any oil you want.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by powermite:
Ive checked with the local Texaco dealers and the only mineral oil is Havoline 15W40 premium.
Will 15W40 be Ok for my chevy.GM specifies 10w30 but this is proving difficult to find here in the UK
My only other option is Castrol GTX 15W40

what do you think??

PM

---

I think that a 15w40 would work out just fine in your ZZ4 motor!

 

[Bror Jace]

wlkjr1951, I think you picked up on a number of things. This formula has changed a great deal (I suspect the Chevron influence) ... while wear seems almost exactly the same.

I agree with others on the potassium. Not a good sign. If it's a coolant leak, I'd expect wear to increase notably next sample.

It may be that the extra additives perfectly negated a trace of coolant contamination. Unlikely ... but this result seems odd ... unless this is a motor which gives up the same results regardless of the type of oil used.

I'd do nothing different for now but I'd definitely get the next sample tested for possible (probable?) coolant issues.

--- Bror Jace

 

[DavoNF]

Halvoline. I'm impressed. nearly 5,000 miles on the oil and 260 thou on the motor, and to get figures like that. Me makes note in little black book.

Dave.

 

[Chris]

No TBN, insolubles or viscosity?

 

[wlkjr1951]

Chris, did not do TBN but vis. was 59.1, flashpoint 395, and insolubles 0.4.
I've noticed a slight rattle developing in the engine. Not sure if it might be a idler pulley going bad. The belt does seem to have some jumping motion to it. I'm afraid it might be more with this many miles on it. I've only spent $425 on it once when it had 126,000 miles and about 6 months ago I rebuilt the alternator for the first time and it hadn't even quit then.

 

[Schmoe]

Check the pulley arm tensioner. I've had them fail at the bearings before and had the exact symptoms that you are describing. Crank it up and watch it, if it's wobbling, replace. Sure seems you have the beginning of the dreaded intake gasket leak. Very common on GM V6 engines.

 

[wlkjr1951]

I does appear that a leak may be developing. Reckon how much to get that fixed? Also wondering how cost effective that might be with that many miles on the car. The rest of it is in great condition. Looks almost new as I've taken good care of it. I might have to resort to driving the Duramax every day instead of just the weekends.

 

[Schmoe]

Your in the same boat as I am with my "office" car. You can't really sell it for anything so you might as well drive it into the ground and keep your Duramax as the back up. I forgot what it cost to have a new manifold put in, the biggest costs is going to be labor. Gasket itself is cheap. If you are close to new spark plugs, get them done while they are at it. Not much more labor involved and the back 3 plugs are a lot easier to get at when the manifold and EFI system is out of the way. I mean, they got to take off the plug wires anyway. If that car isn't burning oil, heck yeah it's worth it, I would. Every mile your putting on it is saving you money. My problem, '90 Olds 3.3l Cutlass with 185K, is that everything else is falling apart. Headliner, in-dash light bulbs, seats, guages, etc. etc. but you learn to work around that as long as it is still running strong. Just don't let your wife drive it because they don't understand and will complain about it.

[ April 28, 2004, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]

 

[wlkjr1951]

Schmoe, your Olds sounds like my daughter's 90 Century with the 3.3. It has about the same miles as yours. Been a pretty decent car. Recently replaced the alternator, water pump, and oil pressure switch. It's worth more to her than to anyone else. And she keeps "bumping" into things with it.
We listened to mine at lunch and it sounds as if the bearings in the water pump might be going. I might try to tackle that this weekend since the old pump has about 140K on it. Good time to replace the Deathcool also.