10W-35

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Ned88

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I have a Kawasaki FT730V on my zero turn. I mow 5 acres once a week. Fuel is 89 octane ethanol free, treated with seafoam. I was using Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-30 and switched to Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-40.

I'm noticing a increase in fuel consumption. Can I safely mix the two oils to create a 35w in hopes of reducing fuel consumption while still getting the benefits of using the 10w-40 albeit reduced? Looking for a sweet spot. Manual states I can use either or due to temperature range. Logically it should be fine.

I also tend to mix my breakfast cereals with good results. 50/50 of raisin bran and fiber one. Seems to work well. I can tolerate the taste better while still maintain a healthy bowel movement.

What say you?
 
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I have a Kawasaki FT730V on my zero turn. I mow 5 acres once a week. Fuel is 89 octane ethanol free, treated with seafoam.
Why add garbage to decent fuel?

I was using Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-30 and switched to Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-40.

I'm noticing a increase in fuel consumption.
Anecdotal.

Can I safely mix the two oils to create a 35w in hopes of reducing fuel consumption while still getting the benefits of using the 10w-40 albeit reduced? Looking for a sweet spot. Manual states I can use either or due to temperature range. Logically it should be fine.
Yes; you can do so. Frankly, you are concerned far more about the vis than is the Kawasaki; it couldn't care less which of those two you use. Anything the manual recommends will be fine. And you'd find it improbable to prove one vis was a better choice over the others.


I also tend to mix my breakfast cereals with good results. 50/50 of raisin bran and fiber one. Seems to work well. I can tolerate the taste better while still maintain a healthy bowel movement.
We don't need to know about your daily habits. BITOG isn't that kind of place; if you want to brag about that kind of stuff, take it over to FB or IG.


What say you?
I've given my $.02.
 
I have a Kawasaki FT730V on my zero turn. I mow 5 acres once a week. Fuel is 89 octane ethanol free, treated with seafoam. I was using Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-30 and switched to Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-40.

I'm noticing a increase in fuel consumption. Can I safely mix the two oils to create a 35w in hopes of reducing fuel consumption while still getting the benefits of using the 10w-40 albeit reduced? Looking for a sweet spot. Manual states I can use either or due to temperature range. Logically it should be fine.

I also tend to mix my breakfast cereals with good results. 50/50 of raisin bran and fiber one. Seems to work well. I can tolerate the taste better while still maintain a healthy bowel movement.

What say you?
Why spend for ethanol free fuel, and then with the seafoam , add alcohol back to it ?

Skip it.. Maybe add a splash of techron or B-12 to the fuel. It has more solvency.

How many hours on the engine ? Perhaps look a spark plug condition and gap , valve clearance and check how loaded the air filter might be.
 
I have a Kawasaki FT730V on my zero turn. I mow 5 acres once a week. Fuel is 89 octane ethanol free, treated with seafoam. I was using Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-30 and switched to Kawasaki 4 stroke ktech 10w-40.

I'm noticing a increase in fuel consumption. Can I safely mix the two oils to create a 35w in hopes of reducing fuel consumption while still getting the benefits of using the 10w-40 albeit reduced? Looking for a sweet spot. Manual states I can use either or due to temperature range. Logically it should be fine.

I also tend to mix my breakfast cereals with good results. 50/50 of raisin bran and fiber one. Seems to work well. I can tolerate the taste better while still maintain a healthy bowel movement.

What say you?
This is a site about oil. Not which cereal moves you.

I issued you a warning. Should you post anything of this nature again you will be banned.

Sam
 
Stick with the 10-40w oil unless your in a southern hot climate then go 50w. Loose the Seafoam. If you want a system cleaner then go with Techron or Gumout complete w/PEA occasionally.
OPE is thirsty on fuel, too many variables to even attempt to get better consumption other than clean air filters.
Fuel stabilizer in before winter storage for a happy spring.
 
Stick with the 10-40w oil unless your in a southern hot climate then go 50w. Loose the Seafoam. If you want a system cleaner then go with Techron or Gumout complete w/PEA occasionally.
OPE is thirsty on fuel, too many variables to even attempt to get better consumption other than clean air filters.
Fuel stabilizer in before winter storage for a happy spring.
I live in Northeast PA. I'll stick with the 40w. I use seafoam as a fuel stabilizer. Residential use only. It sits. On my other z-turn I had 500 hours on it and engine needed to be rebuilt as I was using stabil and regular 87 octane. Mechanic told me to switch to ethanol free. Other forums recommended seafoam. Stabil left a white chalk in my gas lines. I used ethanol free and seafoam for 250 hours on my other zturn over 4 years and had 0 issues. Always stored over winter in a heated garage with a full tank. This is a new z-turn/engine, but same exact engine. Went from a 61" deck to a 52" deck. 40 hours on it. Using 10w-40. Others here recommended checking engine, I'll look at valve clearance etc. Good point.

So I did see a difference in fuel consumption, it used to take me 5 gallons on old machine to mow 5 acres, now it takes me close to 7 to do the same job. I only assumed it was the oil. I'll stick with the 10w 40. Thanks for the replies.
 
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I don't like 10W-40 oils because they're usually subpar conventional formulas made as cheap as possible with more polymer than Jocelyn Wildenstein. The exceptions would be in the boutique realm with oils like HPL No VII Euro 10W-40, Amsoil Premium or Dominator 10W-40, and Red Line HP 10W-40. A 5W-40 is going to be a better oil, in both cold and heat, for not much difference in price.

The difference between a 30 grade and 40 grade, in terms of fuel consumption, would be so small that you could never measure it outside of a very controlled dyno cell. Even then, you'd need multiple tests run to attempt to narrow down an average within margin of error. The oil isn't causing the fuel economy issue.

I haven't seen anything beneficial with Seafoam under controlled conditions. It's just pale oil with a splash of isopropyl and naphtha. The only thing significant about it is the profit margin. The can it comes in is more valuable than the product itself. Just use non-ethanol filled to the top or completely drain the system before putting away in storage. It'll be fine.
 
I don't like 10W-40 oils because they're usually subpar conventional formulas made as cheap as possible with more polymer than Jocelyn Wildenstein.

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The exceptions would be in the boutique realm with oils like HPL No VII Euro 10W-40, Amsoil Premium or Dominator 10W-40, and Red Line HP 10W-40. A 5W-40 is going to be a better oil, in both cold and heat, for not much difference in price.
Yes to all this, too. The reason I like the VR1 black bottle 20w50 so much is that it's designed with more anti-foam than perhaps some other oils locally available. Also, I can detect MORE power in my OPE using it, despite the higher viscosity. I think that's the friction mod package doing its thing. The higher viscosity helps ring seal a bit too.

For a $13 oil I can get locally and won't need to use much of, and will only be used in splash lube engines with no aftertreatment or other emissions rules, I think the black bottle VR1 is a great option.

And I'll admit I love the color.

HPL is categorically better than VR1, and it's *certainly* better in foaming than most off the shelf oils. But for onesie twosie quart purchases, I think the black bottle VR1 is a nice locally available option.

In a perfect world, I'd have my HPL stocked sufficiently in several varieties that I'd never need to buy oil locally, but I'm not there yet.


There might be nothing special about Seafoam, but it did help my GDI-only lexus when it started to run rough and stumble a bit. The 4gr-FSE is not highly regarded as Toyota engines go, having major carbon issues sufficient to warranty a major TSB that involved engine swings at times. But seafoam helped mine get to 187k miles in good condition (little carbon and no oil consumption), so I can't complain.
 
Do these 20/25 hp air cooled engines run hot requiring premium oil? I've got a new 25 hp Briggs on a Ferris but we haven't had any hot weather to do a measurement. My previous rig was a JD with a Kaw V-twin water cooled and that thing ran 160F engine oil on a 90 degree day.
 
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