1.6 TGDI big turbo recommendation

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Sort of a moot point considering im not using the stock ford turbo though.
Oh. why didn't you say earlier. You said some go fast bits but a turbo upgrade is more than just a go fast bit. Because of that i was under the impression you still had the stock turbo with just a few other mods. So what turbo do you now have.
 

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Oh. why didn't you say earlier. You said some go fast bits but a turbo upgrade is more than just a go fast bit. Because of that i was under the impression you still had the stock turbo with just a few other mods. So what turbo do you now have.
The title says big turbo lol. K04 sized Turbo Technics S280. On revision C of my current tune. Still revising
 
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Oh. why didn't you say earlier. You said some go fast bits but a turbo upgrade is more than just a go fast bit. Because of that i was under the impression you still had the stock turbo with just a few other mods. So what turbo do you now have.
"Big turbo" means "new" "different" larger turbo.
 
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The title says big turbo lol. K04 sized Turbo Technics S280
I saw big turbo but didn't see turbo upgrade or a new turbo name listed so I was confused. But the s280 is a street upgrade not a racing orientated turbo and shouldn't cause a lot of issues. I think it'll still be okay. If you're worried about it more I think youll be fine with Mobil 1 ep.
 

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So what did it dyno to or was it a can tune?
stock turbo E40 fuel: 234 hp 310 ft/lb
S280 on 92: 281 hp 276 ft/lb, couple more datalogs and tune revisions to go

the fuel system is maxed out otherwise it would make more..

all done via e-tuning, although canned/OTS tunes have their place for the price!
 
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Normally I run Amsoil SS 5w30 but im really concerned with the Ca ppm I’ve been seeing on UOA’s. Im particularly worried about LSPI, and although Signature Series is SN/SP, im wondering if there is a “favored” oil for small displacement GDI turbo cars. Ive recently installed some go fast bits and would like to make the right decision on my future oil. Looking for a 3.5 HTHS oil that will stay in grade for 8-10,000 miles without too much Ca, as thats what i understand creates LSPI in smaller TGDI engines.
I dont have a catalytic converter so im not worried about ZDDP if that would help my situation…
Mobil 1? X-Cess 8100 Gen 2?

Appreciate any advice and all conversation.

There is API SP Quaker State Euro 5W-40 at most Walmarts now. Some still have old stock with API SN+. It's good stuff, and it should offer you plenty of protection and a nice additive pack.
 

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There is API SP Quaker State Euro 5W-40 at most Walmarts now. Some still have old stock with API SN+. It's good stuff, and it should offer you plenty of protection and a nice additive pack.
There is API SP Quaker State Euro 5W-40 at most Walmarts now. Some still have old stock with API SN+. It's good stuff, and it should offer you plenty of protection and a nice additive pack.
definitely looking at 5w40/0w40 oils. guess ill be spending some time in Wallyworld and O'reillys today. ya i want sn+ or sp for sure.
 
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I am at 260/260 for now. I need a downpipe which there are none. There is a tuner in Canada that has gotten 275ish /325 that at some time maybe I will look into, all on a stock turbo.
 

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I am at 260/260 for now. I need a downpipe which there are none. There is a tuner in Canada that has gotten 275ish /325 that at some time maybe I will look into, all on a stock turbo.
no downpipes? probably because its a hyundai kona haha.
ya im happy with my new setup, all while getting 36 mpg highway. cant complain.
 
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I have a TIG so I just have to get around to making it, but we are getting wildly nutty enivro laws here by a nutty governor. We will know in a month or two. So I may just have to keep it as is.
 
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no downpipes? probably because its a hyundai kona haha.
ya im happy with my new setup, all while getting 36 mpg highway. cant complain.
Yep, I was gong to buy a Kona N, but I found out about 4 months ago it was going to be FWD, a YouTuber looked under a factory Kona N test mule and it was FWD. So I don't want it. Once you go AWD in a street racer you don't want FWD anymore, plus as a daily in winter AWD rocks. I have had a couple FWD close to race cars and AWD is far better for my liking. So I will keep building mine.
 

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I have a TIG so I just have to get around to making it, but we are getting wildly nutty enivro laws here by a nutty governor. We will know in a month or two. So I may just have to keep it as is.
Yep, I was gong to buy a Kona N, but I found out about 4 months ago it was going to be FWD, a YouTuber looked under a factory Kona N test mule and it was FWD. So I don't want it. Once you go AWD in a street racer you don't want FWD anymore, plus as a daily in winter AWD rocks. I have had a couple FWD close to race cars and AWD is far better for my liking. So I will keep building mine.
Street racer? Your referring to a different car correct? Yeaup they are very application-dependent decisions.

not really gonna put down over 300hp reliably with fwd and over 200 tw ime
 
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IF the Kona N was AWD, you could put down 400+hp reliably in a stock turbo tuned form. Zero traction issues. 500-600 +hp if you throw some beamed rods, forged pistons and a big turbo. But then again, we don't know how well they build the stock lower end since Golf R's can handle 500+hp in stock block form with a big turbo, reliably. My Kona's limitation is it's DCT clutch. I am watching the Veloster 1.6T 325 ft lbs tq he is laying down. The tuner told me it has been a month and no slip issues yet. I have some ARP head bolts coming for my car as I won't go past 23 lbs boost and 260 ft tq without new head bolts. The bummer is unlike the 2.0 liter that you can swap one for one by just pulling the valave cover , the 1.6T you have to pull the cams/I am not looking forward to that job.i30 N/Veloster N's have not had much issue running 350 hp with its eLSD , you just have to limit 1st gear pulls ot tune in reduced boost at 1st gear and have delayed boost in low second.


Then you have cars like the new Hyundai Sonata N-Line 2.5 liter 290hp/310 ft tq with "Hyundai One Wheel Wonder" (HOWW)= what a joke. I bet the engineers were bitching developing that car, because Hyundai forced them to use HOWW where it should never have been used. Pricing would be $250 to a simpleton LSD and $500 to add a eLSD It needs at least one of those.
 

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IF the Kona N was AWD, you could put down 400+hp reliably in a stock turbo tuned form. Zero traction issues. 500-600 +hp if you throw some beamed rods, forged pistons and a big turbo. But then again, we don't know how well they build the stock lower end since Golf R's can handle 500+hp in stock block form with a big turbo, reliably. My Kona's limitation is it's DCT clutch. I am watching the Veloster 1.6T 325 ft lbs tq he is laying down. The tuner told me it has been a month and no slip issues yet. I have some ARP head bolts coming for my car as I won't go past 23 lbs boost and 260 ft tq without new head bolts. The bummer is unlike the 2.0 liter that you can swap one for one by just pulling the valave cover , the 1.6T you have to pull the cams/I am not looking forward to that job.i30 N/Veloster N's have not had much issue running 350 hp with its eLSD , you just have to limit 1st gear pulls ot tune in reduced boost at 1st gear and have delayed boost in low second.


Then you have cars like the new Hyundai Sonata N-Line 2.5 liter 290hp/310 ft tq with "Hyundai One Wheel Wonder" (HOWW)= what a joke. I bet the engineers were bitching developing that car, because Hyundai forced them to use HOWW where it should never have been used. Pricing would be $250 to a simpleton LSD and $500 to add a eLSD It needs at least one of those.
That seems like an excessive parts list for a hyundai crossover lol, but hey your money your move. But on the other hand those are solid numbers for a kona and worth noting if i ever wanted a sav before say the new ranger ecoboost.
Ya i had issues putting down the 300+ ft/lbs on the stock turbo with its powerband no matter how sticky a tire i had.

that issue is nonexistent now with the powerband being moved up in the rpm range by about 1000rpm, it is a completely different powerband now. Much more manegeable in all conditions; spinning tires, especially on a open diff isnt much fun and you dont really get to use it when you want the low down torque.
 
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That seems like an excessive parts list for a hyundai crossover lol, but hey your money your move. But on the other hand those are solid numbers for a kona and worth noting if i ever wanted a sav before say the new ranger ecoboost.
Ya i had issues putting down the 300+ ft/lbs on the stock turbo with its powerband no matter how sticky a tire i had.

that issue is nonexistent now with the powerband being moved up in the rpm range by about 1000rpm, it is a completely different powerband now. Much more manegeable in all conditions; spinning tires, especially on a open diff isnt much fun and you dont really get to use it when you want the low down torque.
Fiesta ST had factory LSDs didn't they? I also weight 3,275 where you weight what 1,850? But I have tuned my car with moving weight to the rear down low so I have pertty good weight distribution.That helped handling out to a high degree.

The Kona is not really a crossover, it is a hatch back car, at least mine is. The ONLY difference is thicker sub frames. The Kona was designed by X Audi/BMW designers, Hyundai stole a large group years ago. As I assume you know they stole Albert Biermann from BMW, who designed all the BMW M cars. The Kona AWD has almost exact measurements and almost the same rear Multi-Link rear suspension as Golf R. If you took a picture of both they look almost exactly alike. My rear diff is 3.5 inches lower then a Golf R, which is a major win for roll center. As my car sits now it handles way better then a Golf R in race mode/active suspension, co worker has one. The only downfall is the flacky 7 speed DCT coding for sport driving. That is why I wanted the Kona N for the new 8 speed/2 liter, that is nearly as refined as the Audi/VW DCT.
 
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Fiesta ST had factory LSDs didn't they?Plus

The Kona is not really a crossover, it is a hatch back car, at least mine is. The Kona was designed by X Audi/BMW designers, Hyundai stole a large group years ago. As I assume you know they stole Albert Biermann from BMW, who designed all the BMW M cars. The Kona AWD has almost exact measurements and almost the same rear Multi-Link rear suspension as Golf R. If you took a picture of both they look almost exactly alike. My rear diff is 3.5 inches lower then a Golf R, which is a major win for roll center. As my car sits now it handles way better then a Golf R in race mode/active suspension, co worker has one. The only downfall is the flacky 7 speed DCT coding for sport driving. That is why I wanted the Kona N for the new 8 speed/2 liter, that is nearly as refined as the Audi/VW DCT.
in Europe an LSD is/was an option. in the north american markets, it wasnt even an option :cautious:.Ford Europe gave out all the goodies unfortunately as well as the MK8.

yeaup hyundai pulled a big power move snagging those designers/engineers, and it shows in the latest veloster turbo N edition with the DCT. theyre slowly becoming more attractive cars, design and performance wise.
 
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in Europe an LSD is/was an option. in the north american markets, it wasnt even an option :cautious:.Ford Europe gave out all the goodies unfortunately as well as the MK8.

yeaup hyundai pulled a big power move snagging those designers/engineers, and it shows in the latest veloster turbo N edition with the DCT. theyre slowly becoming more attractive cars, design and performance wise.
Yea, open diff with even 200hp/200 tq is getting close max. Look into a LSD , they are not that much money and rally a must for FWD street racer. Why is that in North America, we ALWAYS get screwed and never seem to get the nice high perf stuff. Same thing Hyundai has a cheaper i20 N that is goes head to head with the Fiesta ST. Why is that not here in the USA? You just have a more spirited/lighter internals engine and are a hundred # lighter.

 
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