0W-20: Which one from among these three choices:

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Honestly, I'd go for the Toyota 0W20 (also made by XOM), as it beats M1 both on spec and on price; higher VI, lower 40C viscosity, and you can generally get it for
Even if the price were the same I'd take it over the M1. The fact that it's cheaper seals the deal.
 
I'd run a 5w20 synthetic. It can be bought in jugs, which would save you money, and in your climate should make no difference in protection. I've also been looking at new trucks, and am leaning toward a Tundra at this point.
 
Johnny,

Funny you should mention that...I tried to look at the product data sheet for M1 EP 5W-20, but it is not available on their website for some reason. I agree the 5W-30EP has been outstanding in the older Tundra, and I will be keeping that vehicle as well and will probably continue with the 5W-30EP in that Tundra.

The manual for the new Tundra does state that 0W-20 and 5W-20 can be used, but it does express a preference for the 0W-20, presumably, for fuel economy.

Interestingly, I note that on the Mobil 1 web pages, their 0W-20 page says it can be used anywhere a 0W-20 OR a 5W-20 is recommended.

On their 5W-20 EP page, it says it can also be used anywhere a 5W-20 AND A 0W-20 is recommended.

I am not surprised at the 0W-20 recommended for both situations, but the 5W-20?

I know this is really splitting hairs here, and ultimately won't really make much difference, if any, but I am torn between the regular Mobil 1 0W-20 and the 5W-20 EP...What do you think?
 
Alex38,

I know this is off topic, but the deals on the Tundra are outstanding now. I did have to negotiate pretty hard, but ended up getting $500 below invoice, free matching floor mats, and zero percent financing.
 
They are both very good oils, but in your region, I see no reason not to use the 5W-20 and the 5W-20EP is an extremely good oil, and you know it will do 10K without any problems.
 
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
Originally Posted By: The Critic
A 2011 should be covered under the Toyota care maintenance pkg. So, wouldn't your first five oil services be covered?

It's odd that the 5.7 requires 5k intervals since most Toyota vehicles using 0w-20 are at 10k intervals.


It does not require 5K synthetic oil changes. The link friendly jacek placed shows 10K and it comes with 0W20 as factory fill.

What I find odd is that the 3.5l V-6 in the RAV4 still requires 5W30 at six month/5K intervals if dino or synth is used.

The link posted by friendly jacek is misleading because it is giving the user a blanket statement that all Tundras requiring 0w-20 have an interval of 10,000 miles. The Tundra has three engines-- a 4.0L V6, 4.6L V8 and a 5.7L V8. According to the official maintenance guide, the 4.0L and 4.6L engines have an interval of 10,000 miles when 0w-20 is used, but the guide clearly indicates that a 5,000 mile interval is required for the 5.7L engine. However, what's more troubling is that the official maintenance guide also states that the 5.7L is supposed to use non-synthetic oil, yet the required oil is 0w-20.

Here is a link to the guide:

http://www.toyota.com/owners/apps/manuals/maintenance-guides-search.do?search=true
 
Originally Posted By: btanchors

I know this is really splitting hairs here, and ultimately won't really make much difference, if any, but I am torn between the regular Mobil 1 0W-20 and the 5W-20 EP...What do you think?


Since you're in Virginia, I don't think you need the extra cold flow ability of a 0w.
According to the website, the "regular" M1 0w20 is the Advanced Fuel Economy version. It has lower viscosities than regular M1 5w20.
If you're going to stay close to Toyota's recommended oil drain intervals, you probably don't need to pay the extra money for 5w20 EP

Regular M1 5w20 would be my vote.
 
Originally Posted By: btanchors
Alex38,

I know this is off topic, but the deals on the Tundra are outstanding now. I did have to negotiate pretty hard, but ended up getting $500 below invoice, free matching floor mats, and zero percent financing.


I agree, now is a good time to buy! I'm thinking of the double cab 4x4 w/5.7 and the TRD off road package. Having a really hard time finding one in this area though... and convincing the other half...
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I recently switched to PP because it was on sale for $4/quart. The sale price was my selection criteria.

what?! where is this happening?
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
OP for Mobil Pour Point says "Unspecified", but Johnny's post states a pour point of -53F. What's up with that.
Also, "Mobile 1 outperforms all conventional motor oils". Is that a fair statement?

No matter, I think any of the oils are exceptional. (I'm not trying to dog Mobile, just curious). I used mobile in my Silverado.


Is Mobile made from Alabama crude?
 
I have a 2010 Tundra it has the 4.6L It calls for the 0w20. I have used Valvoline Syntech I am putting it in again soon. I am not doing the 10,000 mile interval. at 2500 I put in Valvoline 0w20. I am about to turn 6000 miles I am putting Valvoline in again. when I reach 10,000 miles Toyota will change it. My driving conditions suck I travel 10 miles a day with 5-6 stops at different buildings for work my truck never trully warms up.
 
Originally Posted By: btanchors
All,

.... The manual recommends either 0W-20 or 5W-20, with a preference for 0W-20 for improved fuel economy. Since the vehicle is obviously under warranty, I intend to stick pretty close to manufacturer's recommendations. I have therefore settled on using 0W-20.....


Dude, you buy a 13mpg city/17mpg highway V8 p/u and think there will be a noticeable mpg difference because of the engine oil? It doesn't matter and won't make a difference. (maybe on a Corolla) Buy what's on sale.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Originally Posted By: btanchors
All,

.... The manual recommends either 0W-20 or 5W-20, with a preference for 0W-20 for improved fuel economy. Since the vehicle is obviously under warranty, I intend to stick pretty close to manufacturer's recommendations. I have therefore settled on using 0W-20.....


Dude, you buy a 13mpg city/17mpg highway V8 p/u and think there will be a noticeable mpg difference because of the engine oil? It doesn't matter and won't make a difference. (maybe on a Corolla) Buy what's on sale.

This is the problem with MPG. People don't drive until they use a gallon, people drive until they get where they want to be. When you change MPG to Gallons per 100 mile, you start to see that the difference between 12 and 14 MPG is way more than the difference between 30 and 32 MPG.

100/13 - 100/14 = 1.19 gallons

100/30 - 100/32 = 0.21 gallons

If I had a low mpg truck, I'd fight for every mpg I could get
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: btanchors

I know this is really splitting hairs here, and ultimately won't really make much difference, if any, but I am torn between the regular Mobil 1 0W-20 and the 5W-20 EP...What do you think?


Since you're in Virginia, I don't think you need the extra cold flow ability of a 0w.
According to the website, the "regular" M1 0w20 is the Advanced Fuel Economy version. It has lower viscosities than regular M1 5w20.
If you're going to stay close to Toyota's recommended oil drain intervals, you probably don't need to pay the extra money for 5w20 EP

Regular M1 5w20 would be my vote.

Most 0W-20's are lighter at all typical start-up temp's than 5W-20's, it's not just about extreme cold temp' performance.

Specifically comparing M1 0W-20 and 5W-20, the later is a much heavier oil at all temp's. It's HTHS vis of 2.77cP makes it one of the heaviest 20wt's on the market. It's 40C vis of 50.1cSt and lowish VI of 162 means at room temperature M1 0W-20 is 25% lighter and progressively more so at lower temp's.
And M1's 0W-20 is not particularly light as 0W-20's go at typical start-up temp's with it's KV40 of 44.8cSt and 170 VI. At least not compared to the light 0W-20 oils from Toyota , Honda and Castrol Edge. The later having a KV40 of 38.6cSt and VI of 220.
 
Drew2000,

I did not intend to imply that I was concerned about the fuel economy considerations between 0W-20 and 5W-20, which I agree would probably be undetectable to the average driver. I was merely stating what the manual indicates as to why the 0W-20 is preferred.

I am actually more interested in reducing wear and protecting the engine than fuel economy, especially when we're considering oils that vary little in their viscosities at full operating temperature.
 
One of the great things about 0w20 is that it will meet the requirements of all the automakers, and eventually with API SN and ILSAC GF5(except maybe the racing oils). Other than price, feel goodness, and brand loyalty, you really don't have to worry about which one to use.

I would think that ANY 0w20 or ANY full-synthetic 5w20 would work fine for the 10k/1yr interval as long as you don't run out of oil. Exercise the dipstick. Since not all 5w20's are full synthetic, I believe that the recommended Toyota interval is cut in 1/2 to 5k/6month when not using 0w20. Toyota, like other automakers, is too chicken to say full synthetic when mentioning 5w20 or 5w30.

0w20's:
Mobil-1 Advance Fuel Economy
Mobil Super
Honda Ultimate Synthetic
Redline High Performance
Amsoil ASM
Eneos
Castrol Edge
Mystic JT-8
Valvoline SYNpower
Castrol Syntec
Pennzoil Platinum
RenewableLubricants Bio-Syn
Amtecol
PetroCan
Motul
Silkolene Pro-R
Torco SR-5
Shell/Mugen Helix
Synergyn
JoeGibbs
Lucas

And some say they can't find 0w20 ANYWHERE.
Flip a coin or shop on price.
 
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