If it turns but does not start in cold damp weather, that is a sighn ( could be a sign ) of the compression being too low. Piston rings stick and score the cylinder walls and that destroys compresson.
Do a compression test with a tester with the relief valve at the threaded section that goes in the spark-plug hole. At least 4 pulses when cranking at each cylinder. All cylinders should be above 130 psi.
Theres info about doing piston soaks with BG44 to free stuck piston rings to bring back compression. Basicky you pull the spsrkplugs, use a small tube and funnel to get enough to cover each piston completely, let it sit for a day and top up all cylinders so each is covered again and repeat for about 10 days, disable ignition and fuel, crank it with plugs out to remove remaining BG44 ( PUT RAGS OVER EACH SPSRK PLUG HOLE, BUT NOT INTO EACH HOLE, YOU WANT TO CATCH THE BG44 BUT NOT GET A RAG SUCKED IN, THEN CRANK IT, STOP CRANKING, PUT ABOUT 1/2 oz OF OIL IN EACH CYLINDER AND CRANK IT AGAIN WITH RAGS OVER EACH SPSRK PLUG HOLE ( THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DO BECAUSE ITS THE OIL THAT SEALS THE RONGS TO THE CYLINDER WALLS AND WITHOUT OIL IT DEFINATELY WONT HAVE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO START ). Put in new spark plugs, put fuses for ignition and fuel pump back in, change oil and filter ( use a cheap filter for this first run ) run it for about 15 minutes and change oil and filter again using Valvoline Restore and Protect oil. And put a bottle of RedLine SI - 1 in the fuel tank next fill up AND RUN THAT TANK OF GAS UNTILL ITS REALLY LOW LIKE ONLY 1/8 LEFT, and repeat with another bottle of SI - 1 in another full tank and ran to 1/8. Repeat the SI - 1 every 5 to 10 K miles.
If your dealing with a stuck rings engine with low compression, a good cleaning like described MAY bring it around if cylinder scoring is not too bad....
All and all, if low compression is the problem this cleaning has about a 50 % chance of working. If the compression gets too low and can't be brought up, then its time for a new engine.