K24A Starter

[Ifixyawata]

Hi All,

Recently been trying to get my '04 Accord back on the road and the intermittent slow/weak starting has turned to a no-start condition. I've narrowed it down to the starter. I'm stuck on the lower/front starter mount bolt which is a 17mm and very stubborn to come out. I have the intake plenum swung out of the way and it allows what should be enough room to work but it's very slow going. My impact won't budge it, right now I'm getting maybe 1/8 turn before the socket flops off.

Currently using an impact wobble/universal and it's still slipping off, kicking the socket sideways and has begun to round the bolt head. I think I know the answer but is there any better solution at this point than removing more intake parts to make more room?

 

[nwjones18]

You tried getting at it from the bottom? I replaced the starter on our CRV from the bottom without messing with the intake. Find yourself a 6pt socket that fits tight... Smacking it a few times with a hammer probably wouldn't hurt either.

 

[Nukeman7]

Warning: Be extremely careful going forward with removing that odd 17mm extended bolt with the shoulder on the shaft. My co-worker encountered the same symptoms when replacing the starter on his son's 2004 Accord and he used an impact wrench to force it out. It resulted in stripping the female threads from the block and he had to tow it to a shop to repair it with a Heli-Coil insert.

 

[Ifixyawata]

You tried getting at it from the bottom? I replaced the starter on our CRV from the bottom without messing with the intake. Find yourself a 6pt socket that fits tight... Smacking it a few times with a hammer probably wouldn't hurt either.

I haven't, I was looking forward to not having to but it's worth taking a look. From the top, it looks like all the same stuff that's blocking it will be a problem there too. I'm thinking I may end up taking the TB of the end of the plenum.

Warning: Be extremely careful going forward with removing that odd 17mm extended bolt with the shoulder on the shaft. My co-worker encountered the same symptoms when replacing the starter on his son's 2004 Accord and he used an impact wrench to force it out. It resulted in stripping the female threads from the block and he had to tow it to a shop to repair it with a Heli-Coil insert.

Thankfully I have been able to get it part of the way out, it's maybe 1/8" of the way out. My impact is an off-brand 20V from amazon so it's probably not powerful enough to do that kind of damage, I don't think. I have been, occasionally, trying to work the bolt back and forth and get some blaster sprayed in there a few times.

 

[CleanSump]

Can you soak it at both ends with penetrator like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster and then work it back in and out? It should come farther out each time you do.

 

[Ifixyawata]

Can you soak it at both ends with penetrator like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster and then work it back in and out? It should come farther out each time you do.

I haven't looked closely but it seems like it may be a blind hole.

 

[Nukeman7]

I haven't looked closely but it seems like it may be a blind hole.

I actually think it is not a blind hole. However, you are on the right path with using penetrating oil and working it back and forth to gently loosen it. If you get it out successfully, remember to use anti-seize paste upon re-installation and don't overtighten it. I don't think there is enough clearance to safely heat the bolt with a torch.

FWIW, I had no difficulty removing that bolt with a 3/8" ratchet when I replaced the starter on my 2003 Element with the same K24 engine!

 

[Sedin26]

I was going to change mine on my 2005 CRV from the bottom but found it too difficult. I could get to it but couldn’t get leverage. Like @Nukeman7, I was able to remove it with a 3/8 ratchet from the top. I did remove the intake manifold and TB.

It was well worth it to just remove stuff beforehand so it wasn’t a struggle. To be clear, it was still not easy but not horrible.

 

[Ifixyawata]

I actually think it is not a blind hole. However, you are on the right path with using penetrating oil and working it back and forth to gently loosen it. If you get it out successfully, remember to use anti-seize paste upon re-installation and don't overtighten it. I don't think there is enough clearance to safely heat the bolt with a torch.

FWIW, I had no difficulty removing that bolt with a 3/8" ratchet when I replaced the starter on my 2003 Element with the same K24 engine!

What a difference the rust belt makes!

I was going to change mine on my 2005 CRV from the bottom but found it too difficult. I could get to it but couldn’t get leverage. Like @Nukeman7, I was able to remove it with a 3/8 ratchet from the top. I did remove the intake manifold and TB.

It was well worth it to just remove stuff beforehand so it wasn’t a struggle. To be clear, it was still not easy but not horrible.

I think this is the route I'll go. I'm all kinds of concerned about breaking something by removing the TB but I'd rather not round off this big, stuck bolt completely.

 

[Sedin26]

What a difference the rust belt makes!



I think this is the route I'll go. I'm all kinds of concerned about breaking something by removing the TB but I'd rather not round off this big, stuck bolt completely.

I did something dumb and you can learn from my mistake! One of the two starter bolts is fairly close to the knock sensor. I was using a ratchet and long socket and not paying attention...and then I noticed I had backed it out part way but was really tight against the knock sensor. I was unable to reverse the ratchet due to the pressure and it took about 15 minutes to finesse it out of that spot....

I also thought about replacing the knock sensor with a new OEM one while I was in there but it looked relatively easy to get to it from underneath......probably not a bad job if it's ever needed.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I did something dumb and you can learn from my mistake! One of the two starter bolts is fairly close to the knock sensor. I was using a ratchet and long socket and not paying attention...and then I noticed I had backed it out part way but was really tight against the knock sensor. I was unable to reverse the ratchet due to the pressure and it took about 15 minutes to finesse it out of that spot....

I also thought about replacing the knock sensor with a new OEM one while I was in there but it looked relatively easy to get to it from underneath......probably not a bad job if it's ever needed.

I replaced the starter 2x on our crv (stay away from AC Delco) from the bottom. 2nd time I did what you said but I broke the knock sensor plasti connector end. Taking the knock sensor off actually gives you some extra room that is helpful. If I did it again, I still wouldn't take off the whole intake. It's bad but not that bad

 

[Sedin26]

This brings up another good topic - what starter to use. Honda wanted $1200Cad and that wasn’t going to happen. I’ve been finding more and more that aftermarket stuff is mostly trash.

I had a local auto electric shop rebuild mine. So far so good.

 

[The Critic]

Impact wrench + long 1/2" drive extension + 1/2" drive impact swivel 17mm socket is how I removed the last one.

Warning: Be extremely careful going forward with removing that odd 17mm extended bolt with the shoulder on the shaft. My co-worker encountered the same symptoms when replacing the starter on his son's 2004 Accord and he used an impact wrench to force it out. It resulted in stripping the female threads from the block and he had to tow it to a shop to repair it with a Heli-Coil insert.

The one on my wife's car did give me some trouble. I cleaned up the threads and it has been fine, but ymmv.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

The two I did, '04 CRV and '08 CRV I removed the intake, not sure about TB. I might have even unbolted the fans from radiator and also unbolted top of radiator/condensor and leaned them forward (that might have been starter or AC compressor). I did not use any impacts just 3/8" tools, maybe a breaker bar to initially loosen.

 

[Nmr1981]

Yes that bolt was a major pain. I don’t know if the threads corrode over time or what but it was very slow progress. Definitely order a new bolt and maybe a twist type damaged fastener socket. I also went in from the top and was able to get it with a good socket and fine tooth ratchet. Even when it was loosened my friends Milwaukee cordless ratchet wouldn’t budge it. Impact maybe tempting here but I’d be very wary of snapping the bolt.

 

[Nukeman7]

This brings up another good topic - what starter to use. Honda wanted $1200Cad and that wasn’t going to happen. I’ve been finding more and more that aftermarket stuff is mostly trash.

I had a local auto electric shop rebuild mine. So far so good.

The DENSO rebuilt units are the only aftermarket starters and alternators that I will install on a Honda. I've installed DENSO units in ~6 different Hondas over the past 15 years and never had a subsequent failure.

 

[nwjones18]

I replaced the starter 2x on our crv (stay away from AC Delco) from the bottom. 2nd time I did what you said but I broke the knock sensor plasti connector end. Taking the knock sensor off actually gives you some extra room that is helpful. If I did it again, I still wouldn't take off the whole intake. It's bad but not that bad

I removed the knock sensor when I replaced mine from underneath and it gave me the space I needed to get everything off..

 

[nwjones18]

The DENSO rebuilt units are the only aftermarket starters and alternators that I will install on a Honda. I've installed DENSO units in ~6 different Hondas over the past 15 years and never had a subsequent failure.

I know how much BITOG hates cheap amazon/ebay parts, and for good reason, but this one has been on my car for 6 years now with no issues.. Was only $67 when I got it in 2020 though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZYNEMR0?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_6

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I know how much BITOG hates cheap amazon/ebay parts, and for good reason, but this one has been on my car for 6 years now with no issues.. Was only $67 when I got it in 2020 though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZYNEMR0?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_6

DB electrical left me stranded and then denied my warranty. Never again

 

[crashz]

I echo all the responses here. On my 06 CRV I did the starter, coolant pipe and thermostat housing, and alternator on separate days. The best way to do this is pull everything out of the way. I even took the fan assembly out. Its very easy and gives plenty of working room for big hands. It looks like more work than it is.

I agree on the Denso starter. That's the one I used and it was perfect. Solved my slow start issues.

Even in the rust belt, I had very little difficulty removing the bolts. But by getting plenty of room to work, I could get a 6 point socket on, 100% engaged and loosen by hand. Don't do anything until you can get 100% engagement of the socket on the bolt head.