thoughts on break-in schedule for my new engine

[moregrip]

0-100miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

100-500miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

500-2500miles Shell Rotella Heavy Duty 15w-40

>2500 miles Redline Synthetic 10w40

going in a supercharged gas motor:

 

[pidster]

That's one shiny engine you got there.

Plan sounds good to me.

 

[TallPaul]

Are there any special startup procedures for the initial starting of this engine?

Looks nice. What kind o car? Engine?

 

[moregrip]

Quote:

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Are there any special startup procedures for the initial starting of this engine?

Looks nice. What kind o car? Engine?

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nothing especially crazy; plan on priming the engine the best I can. It's going in my truck, 2005 Chevy Silverado, its a 365CID forged LQ4 running a Magnacharger MP122HH blower.

It has higher than stock tension oil rings, and a napier second ring

 

[Jeffrey Behr]

Why such thick oil to start? Probably I'd use 5W20 or 5W30.

 

[alanu]

I dont like straight 30 for breakin. I'm assuming that engine has hydraulic roller lifters so alot of EP additives isn't all that crucial unless your using higher valve spring tension but even that isn't crucial for roller lifter setups.

I'd rather use a 10w30 to allow faster oil flow to the crucial components of the engine (conrod bearings, main bearings). Straight 30 is not gonna flow aswell as a multigrade 10w30 when cold. I'd probably use Rotella's 10w30 since it'll have higher zinc levels than the typical dino oil.

Everyone has a breakin ritual. For giggles I'd do a 20-25 minute breakin' then check timing, look for oil leaks etc then put load on the piston rings by driving it like you intend to drive your vehicle then dump the oil. As I said everyone has their ritual.

If your oil clearances do not require using thick oil I would use an oil that maintains aproximately 10psi per 1000rpms. Higher oil pressures do not equate to better lubrication.

I'd monitor your a/f ratio to assure your not gonna fuel wash your piston rings and dilute your oil with fuel. Theres a calling for a wideband a/f meter for tuning purposes.

If your gonna beat on her hard just make sure you use a good oil base to handle the abuse you throw at her.

by the way NICE clean setup you have!!!

 

[Dad2leia]

Looks like a winning break in schedule to me, but I also have to agree on maybe not using such a thick oil for the procedure itself.

 

[Steve S]

Quote:

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Why such thick oil to start? Probably I'd use 5W20 or 5W30.

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Define thick oil and why would you use a 5w/20 or 5w/30?

 

[Steve S]

A straight 30 will protect better than a multi visc oil all things equal. It is stretching it talking about faster flow of muli visc vs straight 30 wts in San Diego Ca.

 

[moregrip]

thanks for all the inputs,
my bearing and side clearances are greater than stock so I was thinking I would need a somewhat thicker oil. Factory specification is 10w30 with a stock engine..................additionally, with the new forged motor I have higher tension piston rings and dual valve springs with plenty of spring pressure.

 

[alanu]

If your bearing clearances and side clearances are indeed looser then there is a calling for thicker viscosity.

I guess in CA you have hot ambient temperatures. If your using a good quality multigrade you still may benefit from faster flow.

After reading an article it makes alot of sense to have the goal of 10psi per 1000rpms and attempting to use the thinnest oil possible to achieve that goal. It would require less effort for the rings to swipe the oil of the side of the cylinder walls.

On a street motor I often question the major concerns of UOA's. Flame me but with my large customer base people that use a good dino oil with frequent oil changes have longevity with high miles with little or no oil consumption. BUT then you have Dodge neons, sebrings and any of their 2L and 2.4L platforms consuming and burning oil whatever you use.

Check your a/f ratio so you dont wash your cylinders and have fun.

 

[moregrip]

will do, I have an excellent tuner to help me out, although it wont be untill 500 or so miles before we start giving the engine ---- and really nailing the tune down.

I have a wideband and EGT to watch AFR and exhaust temps

 

[moregrip]

thanks for the inputs

 

[JohnBrowning]

I think you have the right idea. I would wait to 3000 miles even for the Redline. Do you have a link to Brad Penn Break-In oil? I would like to read more about it. You know that if ever you have a hard time finding Brad Penn Many Diesel SAE 30Wt oils can be found localy in most places from Delvac,Rotella,BP etc.....

 

[Dad2leia]

Here ya go JohnBrowning :
http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7120_BP_PENN-GRADE_1_Break-In_Oil_PB.pdf

 

[JohnBrowning]

Thanks for the link!

 

[mechtech2]

I'd throw in an extra 1/2 - 1 qt for the initial start up.
Your OCIs seem a bit quick.
Let her break in a bit, then change the oil.
500, 1500, then every 3000.
/This assumes a good rebuild, with proper machining.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

0-100miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

100-500miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

500-2500miles Shell Rotella Heavy Duty 15w-40

>2500 miles Redline Synthetic 10w40

going in a supercharged gas motor.

I really can't find anything wrong with your break-in schedule. I especially like the idea of the Brad Penn Break-In. Why don't you stay with Brad Penn? By the way was the oil green?

 

[Jim 5]

[post edited. Answer found above]

 

[moregrip]

Quote:

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0-100miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

100-500miles Penn Grade Break-In Oil SAE 30

500-2500miles Shell Rotella Heavy Duty 15w-40

>2500 miles Redline Synthetic 10w40

going in a supercharged gas motor.

I really can't find anything wrong with your break-in schedule. I especially like the idea of the Brad Penn Break-In. Why don't you stay with Brad Penn? By the way was the oil green?

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yes oil is green like the old Kendall

in fact we assembled my engine with NOS Kendall 30wt oil.......

Under the loads my engine will be out through I figured Redline was the best choice.....thoughts?