What is the right oil to use on a fresh flat tappet engine AFTER break in oil?

[allflatblack]

I’ve just installed a remanufactured Ford 460 with stock flat tappet lifters and cam in my 1989 race hauler. Break in seems to have gone well with Royal Purple break in oil 10-30. I have about 300 miles on the engine now and getting ready for the first oil change. Should I still be pursuing a high zddp oil? Rotella? Efi engine but no catalytic converter. Thanks for recommendations.

 

[Slick3914]

A 10W-30 diesel oil would be ideal.

 

[PontiacHO]

Castrol Classic. Valvoline VR-1 10W40

 

[ka9mnx]

Does the engine builder have any preference?

Any 10w-30 or 5w-40 Euro, my choice, or 0w-40 Euro would be my preference.

 

[labfan]

i'd run any euro or diesel oil. They'd be better than what it had. Remember this engine just spec'd conventional gas engine oil. It didn't require anything above bottom barrel when it was new. And I owned a 460 in a 95 f350 and it just took whatever i gave it and ran beautifully.

 

[Greasymechtech]

I would use a higher zddp oil.

More info is needed... what cam/lifters kit, what valve springs? what oil pump? oil sump size and/or cooler?
what oil filter? typical oil PSI and temps, especially when being worked? what engine builder and specs?

Ford has a good list:

FCSD Chemicals and Lubricants

www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf

Not all euro oils are higher in z/p levels or hths so be selective with the spec.

Castrol A3/B4 oils are sometimes available at some walmarts and are a great choice. Mobil1 0w40 is another.

I could care less what engine builders recommend since most are clueless concerning oil, like most mechanics too.

Since you're using RP, why not just use their: https://www.royalpurple.com/product/hps-high-performance-street-motor-oil/ unless the interval chosen and/or availability drives costs up too much

The Rotella 0w40, 5w40, and 15w40 in conventional/blend/synthetic are excellent choices and probably one of the easier to find oils. The T4, T5, and T6 are really good, for your cars, generator, mower, tractor.... and won't break the bank. Rotella T6 5w40 is an easy to find choice.

The mobil link below is their downloaded pdf z/p content for some of their oils. A single quart of 20w50 V-twin or their racing oil can spike a sump of greenie API oil more than enough. The 5w50 and 15w50 are pretty stout and the turbodieseltruck 5w40, if available locally, is a great choice.

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/pdf/emsga-mobil1productguide-v2-9-1-22.pdf

For example, my last oil change in my VW was 1 quart of Amsoil Dominator 15w50 and 4 quarts of VW 508 0w20 oil. The little z/p spike and visc are what I wanted.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Pick your favorite HDEO and motor on. I'd say 10w30, 5w40 or even 15w40 should be good if it doesn't see cold weather.

Just my $0.02

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I’ve just installed a remanufactured Ford 460 with stock flat tappet lifters and cam in my 1989 race hauler. Break in seems to have gone well with Royal Purple break in oil 10-30. I have about 300 miles on the engine now and getting ready for the first oil change. Should I still be pursuing a high zddp oil? Rotella? Efi engine but no catalytic converter. Thanks for recommendations.

How do you know the break in has gone well? Do look in your break-in filter pleats and scope the pickup and pan floor if you can - or just drain it through cheesecloth to catch any bits.

You can run 1 qt break in oil with balance of ho hum 10w30 and have unpredictable results or look for a high moly ILSAC oil or, as many have stated, a ACEA A3 full saps 40 grade is easy to find and cheap and stout enough for a hauler.

Man I would have given that a tiny bit more cam like a 206/[email protected]

 

[twX]

The Rotella 0w40, 5w40, and 15w40 in conventional/blend/synthetic are excellent choices and probably one of the easier to find oils. The T4, T5, and T6 are really good, for your cars, generator, mower, tractor.... and won't break the bank. Rotella T6 5w40 is an easy to find choice.

Rotella 10W30 conventional is also an option. It will have an HTHS of at least 3.5, the same minimum as a 0W or 5W40, and will be better than the 15W40 in cold weather.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Depends on the valve spring pressure. Lower (stock) pressures should be fine on a 10w30. I use Castrol GTX Classic High Zinc in my classics.

 

[OVERKILL]

Any full-SAPS Euro oil will be more than enough. I'm partial to M1 FS 0W-40, but you could use a 5W-40 as well, just make sure it's an A3/B4 oil, not C3.

 

[FCD]

VR1 10W30, Amsoil Z-Rod 10W30

 

[userfriendly]

I'll vote for 15w40 Rotella or equivalent.

 

[allflatblack]

Thanks for the advice. This is a class b Rv so the package came with a high lift RV cam. The first go around the rebuilder, a local high volume outfit, recommended Rotella T4 as the break in oil, I did not blink, followed their suggestion and ate the cam within 250 miles after the high rpm break in procedure. Half the lifters were collapsed and flopping around. Puddle of hard face sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. Lots of research later and I allowed him to rebuild it.

He rebuilt the engine and then suggested Royal purple break in, same procedure and I’m now at around 300 miles and the engine sounds clean and rattle free. I was leaning forwards running rotella t4 or higher grade as it is high zddp but concerned that higher detergency might negate the benefits?

 

[JeffKeryk]

We classic Corvette owners know the value (and prestige) of our cars is higher if the car has its original engine. Numbers Matching engine is more and more rare. We used to use Rotella T, but now have switched to an oil specifically designed for flat tappet engines with increased spring pressures. Better yet, stab a roller and be done with it.

Remember, Zinc, ZDDP, whatever, are consumables.

 

[Greasymechtech]

The first go around the rebuilder, a local high volume outfit, recommended Rotella T4 as the break in oil, I did not blink, followed their suggestion and ate the cam within 250 miles after the high rpm break in procedure. Half the lifters were collapsed and flopping around. Puddle of hard face sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. Lots of research later and I allowed him to rebuild it.

Wasn't the oil's fault. Sounds like a shoddy build. Hopefully this one is better.

 

[userfriendly]

Wasn't the oil's fault. Sounds like a shoddy build. Hopefully this one is better.

It sounds like someone put Chevy lifters in a Ford again.

 

[Big_B]

Seriously run Mobil 1 0w40FS and sleep well at night.

 

[RDY4WAR]

I'm not a fan of common diesel oils in gas engines. Most all of them have 11-13% Noack volatility which won't do the 460 any favors.

Valvoline VR1 10W-30
Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40
Red Line HP 5W-30
HPL Bad Ass 5W-30
Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30
Driven LS30 5W-30

That's where I'd be looking.

 

[Cujet]

Thanks for the advice. recommended Rotella T4 as the break in oil, I did not blink, followed their suggestion and ate the cam within 250 miles

That was not the fault of the oil. The quality of parts is VERY questionable now. Many are of Chinese origin and do not hold up. Brother's VW Vanagon engine failed the same way, using M1, 15W-50. Poor quality Chinese parts were to blame.

But this brings up a good point, viscosity keeps metal parts apart. ZDDP is there when viscosity can't do the job. Choosing a low viscosity oil for a flat tappet engine is a questionable practice.