What is the right oil to use on a fresh flat tappet engine AFTER break in oil?

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I disagree that Rotella was not to blame. Rotella doesn't have enough ZDDP, not enough by half, and it's not the right type of ZDDP. The high amount of detergents isn't favorable for ZDDP reactivity. Cheaper material is certainly a factor, but I'm seeing many more failures with Rotella and other shelf oils than with a dedicated break-in oil.

Driven BR40 vs Rotella T4

Elements............BR40.....T4

Boron..................0............198
Calcium..............450........2327
Magnesium........0.............14
Phosphorus.......2550.......1034
Zinc....................2800.......1130
TBN....................2.2...........9.32

The type of ZDDP in BR40 is branched chained secondary alkyl. It's highly reactive and sacrificial. There's only enough detergent to get through the break-in. That oil makes ZDDP the star of the show and gets everything else out of its way.

You can add a supplement to Rotella, but it won't take the unwanted additives out. If you have to add a supplement, you're using the wrong oil.
 
I order my oil from Amazon. I’ve seen Valvoline VR-1 at Advance Auto. Great oil. Folks are recommending either diesel or euro oils. They are good but for flat tappet camshafts under load such as your RV use an oil with a heavy dose of zinc. That’s why I’ve recommended the two oils above.
 
I order my oil from Amazon. I’ve seen Valvoline VR-1 at Advance Auto. Great oil. Folks are recommending either diesel or euro oils. They are good but for flat tappet camshafts under load such as your RV use an oil with a heavy dose of zinc. That’s why I’ve recommended the two oils above.
I have not seen Castrol Classic or Valvoline VR1 in grade of 10w-40 online or in store. Does not show up on the manufacturer websites either.
 
Valvoline VR1 10W-40 is sold outside of the US, mostly in Australia.

 
That’s my mistake. I assumed they both offered that weight but obviously not. There are others out there that are blended for flat tappet cams. Brad Penn offers a 10W40. Look at the Summit Racing site. Several offerings.
 
I haven't been a fan of Penngrade (formerly Brad Penn) for the past few years. It's not that their oil is bad, it's an ethics thing. They continue to deceive their customers by stating their formula hasn't changed since moving to DA. They no longer buy from ARG (according to source at ARG) and Lubrizol discontinued their additive package in 2019. FTIR shows a more refined group II base oil, not the signature group I Pennsylvania crude. Like I said, it's not a bad thing. If anything, the oil is better now that they've left the 1950s tech, but it's not the same like they claim.
 
I haven't been a fan of Penngrade (formerly Brad Penn) for the past few years. It's not that their oil is bad, it's an ethics thing. They continue to deceive their customers by stating their formula hasn't changed since moving to DA. They no longer buy from ARG (according to source at ARG) and Lubrizol discontinued their additive package in 2019. FTIR shows a more refined group II base oil, not the signature group I Pennsylvania crude. Like I said, it's not a bad thing. If anything, the oil is better now that they've left the 1950s tech, but it's not the same like they claim.
What about Driven GP1? I assume they are using or at least marketing toward those that want the Pennsylvania crude.
 
What about Driven GP1? I assume they are using or at least marketing toward those that want the Pennsylvania crude.

Driven GP-1 is majority ARG (Penn. crude) group I with group III syn-blend. It uses an older SL add pack as the base and top treats additional ZDDP, moly, anti-oxidants, and a load of rust/corrosion inhibitors as it's designed around classic cars with flat tappet cams that are usually put away in storage for several months over the winter. The only thing it shares in common with Penngrade's old formula is the group I base oil.
 
Valvoline VR1 10W-40 is sold outside of the US, mostly in Australia.

It's available in 10W-40 form in South America too, in Europe VR1 is available in 20w50 Conventional, 5w50 Full synthetic and 10w60 Syn-Blend
 
Driven GP-1 is majority ARG (Penn. crude) group I with group III syn-blend. It uses an older SL add pack as the base and top treats additional ZDDP, moly, anti-oxidants, and a load of rust/corrosion inhibitors as it's designed around classic cars with flat tappet cams that are usually put away in storage for several months over the winter. The only thing it shares in common with Penngrade's old formula is the group I base oil.
Thats good to know, thanks.

Other than it is a diesel oil, do you feel HPL CK4 works well in gas engines that need a little more zddp than the present SN/SP stuff?
 
Can this engine be rollerized? Sure it may cost more but you don't have to worry about cams and lifters eating them selves.
I think many guys are lazy and breaking in a fast ramp cams with the full spring set. The rec used to be to use a lighter spring set for wear in. Then you have the questionable metals and treating. On the rollers you have might have the issue of the timken coming apart AFTER break in. Especially on high lash solids. I have only installed mild FT hyd lately - no issues. But a lot of these cars don't have many miles on them.
 
Thats good to know, thanks.

Other than it is a diesel oil, do you feel HPL CK4 works well in gas engines that need a little more zddp than the present SN/SP stuff?

HPL's CK-4 HDMO would work well in a gas engine as HPL doesn't slack on additive content and base oil quality like the common brands off the shelf. I ran their 5W-20 HDMO in my 2012 Mustang for just over 20,000 miles and it came out great.
 
HPL's CK-4 HDMO would work well in a gas engine as HPL doesn't slack on additive content and base oil quality like the common brands off the shelf. I ran their 5W-20 HDMO in my 2012 Mustang for just over 20,000 miles and it came out great.
Question and you're probably the person to ask on here. HPL-BAS 15w50 vs Driven DT50 for a street/strip, loose clearance all aluminum block engine. It is stored 4 months during winter. Between those 2 options which would you recommend? Both look good but just would like a 2nd opinion to push me one way or the other
 
Question and you're probably the person to ask on here. HPL-BAS 15w50 vs Driven DT50 for a street/strip, loose clearance all aluminum block engine. It is stored 4 months during winter. Between those 2 options which would you recommend? Both look good but just would like a 2nd opinion to push me one way or the other
Nothing wrong with Mobil1 15w50 which is available at wallyworld
 
Nothing wrong with Mobil1 15w50 which is available at wallyworld

Nothing special about it either. Some people like the choice between a perfectly aged and marbled NY strip and a filet mignon instead of settling for a Walmart flank steak.

Question and you're probably the person to ask on here. HPL-BAS 15w50 vs Driven DT50 for a street/strip, loose clearance all aluminum block engine. It is stored 4 months during winter. Between those 2 options which would you recommend? Both look good but just would like a 2nd opinion to push me one way or the other

Both are stout oils with low Noack and loads of FM, but I would give the nod to HPL BAS.
 
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Stock springs in those heads??? If so, it's hard to argue with Mobil1 0/5-40 for $27 at Walmart. No need to go any fancier. It's not like you're running stupid high spring pressure.

Mobil1, oil cooler, motor on.
 
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