I'd run it till it dies...if it ever does
Synthetic Atf
- Thread starter pjc360
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Originally Posted By: pjc360
I don't really want to run atf plus 4 ......... and I know a quality synthetic will keep heat at bay.
You do know that ATF+4 is a full synthetic, right??
Also, I know you didn't ask, but I sure wouldn't go to the trouble and expense of having the planetaries installed. The shift kit, maybe, if I wasn't satisfied with the shift quality as-is.
I don't really want to run atf plus 4 ......... and I know a quality synthetic will keep heat at bay.
You do know that ATF+4 is a full synthetic, right??
Also, I know you didn't ask, but I sure wouldn't go to the trouble and expense of having the planetaries installed. The shift kit, maybe, if I wasn't satisfied with the shift quality as-is.
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I don't really want to run atf plus 4 ......... and I know a quality synthetic will keep heat at bay.
You do know that ATF+4 is a full synthetic, right??
Also, I know you didn't ask, but I sure wouldn't go to the trouble and expense of having the planetaries installed. The shift kit, maybe, if I wasn't satisfied with the shift quality as-is.
I'm going through the trouble and expense to have the planeterys upgraded and the shift kit installed because I want the lease of mind knowing this transmission is solid because I am eventually going to install a stroker kit into my engine which will bring 100 more horsepower and 100 more ft lbs of torque and I will be re-gearing both of my axles to 4.56 gear ratio.
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I don't really want to run atf plus 4 ......... and I know a quality synthetic will keep heat at bay.
You do know that ATF+4 is a full synthetic, right??
Also, I know you didn't ask, but I sure wouldn't go to the trouble and expense of having the planetaries installed. The shift kit, maybe, if I wasn't satisfied with the shift quality as-is.
I'm going through the trouble and expense to have the planeterys upgraded and the shift kit installed because I want the lease of mind knowing this transmission is solid because I am eventually going to install a stroker kit into my engine which will bring 100 more horsepower and 100 more ft lbs of torque and I will be re-gearing both of my axles to 4.56 gear ratio.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I have a 1991 Dodge power ram 150 4x4 short bed truck with an A-518 non lock up transmission.
Non-lockup in 1991? Or did you have the convertor replaced with a non-lockup unit?
I had the transmission shop put a non lock up converter in for me because I didn't want a lock up converter.
And I'm not sure if dodge used lock up converters in 91 because he said the converter he took off when doing the re-build was a non lock up converter too.
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I have a 1991 Dodge power ram 150 4x4 short bed truck with an A-518 non lock up transmission.
Non-lockup in 1991? Or did you have the convertor replaced with a non-lockup unit?
I had the transmission shop put a non lock up converter in for me because I didn't want a lock up converter.
And I'm not sure if dodge used lock up converters in 91 because he said the converter he took off when doing the re-build was a non lock up converter too.
Maxlife is the best bang for the buck synthetic, superior to your mostly group 3 synthetics like DexronVI and ATF+4. Maxlife uses an advanced additive package provided by Lubrizol and a superior shear stable base oil composition.
If you can afford Amsoil ATF go for it but the Maxlife is almost as good and if you buy it by the gallon it can be around $4-5 per quart. Sometimes cheaper on sale.
I will say that the friction modifiers between an ATF+4 and a dex/merc are not the same so I would want to know what the transmission specified from the factory, I'm betting it's a Dexron, so no need reason for using ATF+4 unless otherwise noted.
If you can afford Amsoil ATF go for it but the Maxlife is almost as good and if you buy it by the gallon it can be around $4-5 per quart. Sometimes cheaper on sale.
I will say that the friction modifiers between an ATF+4 and a dex/merc are not the same so I would want to know what the transmission specified from the factory, I'm betting it's a Dexron, so no need reason for using ATF+4 unless otherwise noted.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Maxlife is the best bang for the buck synthetic, superior to your mostly group 3 synthetics like DexronVI and ATF+4. Maxlife uses an advanced additive package provided by Lubrizol and a superior shear stable base oil composition.
If you can afford Amsoil ATF go for it but the Maxlife is almost as good and if you buy it by the gallon it can be around $4-5 per quart. Sometimes cheaper on sale.
I will say that the friction modifiers between an ATF+4 and a dex/merc are not the same so I would want to know what the transmission specified from the factory, I'm betting it's a Dexron, so no need reason for using ATF+4 unless otherwise noted.
The whole atf+4 fluid thing is confusing, as far as I can gather mopar used dexron3 as factory fill in the A-518 transmission in 1989 when it was first introduced untill 1993. Then they started using the atf+3 in the 46rh in 1994 same transmission but comes with a lock up converter.
From what I can gather they started recommending the +3 fluid in the 46rh with lock up to make the lock up Engadget smoother.
Maxlife is the best bang for the buck synthetic, superior to your mostly group 3 synthetics like DexronVI and ATF+4. Maxlife uses an advanced additive package provided by Lubrizol and a superior shear stable base oil composition.
If you can afford Amsoil ATF go for it but the Maxlife is almost as good and if you buy it by the gallon it can be around $4-5 per quart. Sometimes cheaper on sale.
I will say that the friction modifiers between an ATF+4 and a dex/merc are not the same so I would want to know what the transmission specified from the factory, I'm betting it's a Dexron, so no need reason for using ATF+4 unless otherwise noted.
The whole atf+4 fluid thing is confusing, as far as I can gather mopar used dexron3 as factory fill in the A-518 transmission in 1989 when it was first introduced untill 1993. Then they started using the atf+3 in the 46rh in 1994 same transmission but comes with a lock up converter.
From what I can gather they started recommending the +3 fluid in the 46rh with lock up to make the lock up Engadget smoother.
Knowing the A-518 was spec'd for Dexron and not ATF+3 and also not having a lockup torque convertor i can say Maxlife will be the best bang for the buck in the synthetic category. That is if you can find it as easily as most of us. I can only find it at Meijer in the gallon for $17 jug.
I hear some autozones have it , but not a single one in my area carry the gallon for such a good price i have heard people finding them at AZ.
I hear some autozones have it , but not a single one in my area carry the gallon for such a good price i have heard people finding them at AZ.
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I can get maxlife in a 4 quart jug at my local wal-mart for 16 dollars and some change.
Then there's no reason to waste the money on Amsoil when you can buy that Maxlife goodness for $4/quart. The amsoil is good, but its not double the price good.
I can get maxlife in a 4 quart jug at my local wal-mart for 16 dollars and some change.
Then there's no reason to waste the money on Amsoil when you can buy that Maxlife goodness for $4/quart. The amsoil is good, but its not double the price good.
Originally Posted By: pjc360
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I have a 1991 Dodge power ram 150 4x4 short bed truck with an A-518 non lock up transmission.
Non-lockup in 1991? Or did you have the convertor replaced with a non-lockup unit?
I had the transmission shop put a non lock up converter in for me because I didn't want a lock up converter.
And I'm not sure if dodge used lock up converters in 91 because he said the converter he took off when doing the re-build was a non lock up converter too.
Ah. I'd keep an eye on trans temp then while in OD. I don't know what kind of rpm's you are spinning but I'd be worried about heat.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I have a 1991 Dodge power ram 150 4x4 short bed truck with an A-518 non lock up transmission.
Non-lockup in 1991? Or did you have the convertor replaced with a non-lockup unit?
I had the transmission shop put a non lock up converter in for me because I didn't want a lock up converter.
And I'm not sure if dodge used lock up converters in 91 because he said the converter he took off when doing the re-build was a non lock up converter too.
Ah. I'd keep an eye on trans temp then while in OD. I don't know what kind of rpm's you are spinning but I'd be worried about heat.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I can get maxlife in a 4 quart jug at my local wal-mart for 16 dollars and some change.
Then there's no reason to waste the money on Amsoil when you can buy that Maxlife goodness for $4/quart. The amsoil is good, but its not double the price good.
+1
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I can get maxlife in a 4 quart jug at my local wal-mart for 16 dollars and some change.
Then there's no reason to waste the money on Amsoil when you can buy that Maxlife goodness for $4/quart. The amsoil is good, but its not double the price good.
+1
Rig a fluid bypass for your external cooler in the winter. Either change the hose position or put a bypass and valve there to manually bypass it. You want the fluid to be normally warm, you won't even get that in your winter, and you don't want it cooled more than that.
Understand that the fluid spec, Dexron-III or whatever is primarily a friction spec that is controlled by the additives the blender puts into the hydraulic oil they use to make the ATF. The spec of the oil is also considered. There used to be full syn Dex-III, and there's now full syn fluids that cover the usages where Dex-III used to be required. Your transmission builder probably knows which fluid works best with the friction materials he put into your transmission.
Understand that the fluid spec, Dexron-III or whatever is primarily a friction spec that is controlled by the additives the blender puts into the hydraulic oil they use to make the ATF. The spec of the oil is also considered. There used to be full syn Dex-III, and there's now full syn fluids that cover the usages where Dex-III used to be required. Your transmission builder probably knows which fluid works best with the friction materials he put into your transmission.
The transmission cooling system goes like this, first it runs into the cooler that's built into the bottom of the radiator, then it goes from there to the auxiliary cooler that's mounted on the radiator then back to the transmission.
I was told this is the best way to have the cooling system routed because the fluid in the transmission leaves the transmission at around 220 to 230 degrees and then it gets cooled down to whatever your radiator coolant is at which in my case is 190 then it gets cooled down another 15 to 20 degrees byte auxiliary cooler so when it goes back to the transmission after running through both coolers the fluid temp should be around 170 to 175.
I don't have a tempature gauge on the transmission to verify but that's what the builder told me and that's how the builder routed the transmission cooling system and he said my transmission fluid temp would always be in check with the two coolers. A synthetic would prob keep the temps down even better then standard mineral dexron3.
I don't know why my builder was against running a synthetic atf but it makes no sense to me to run such an old outdated fluid with all the good synthetic fluids there are today.
I was told this is the best way to have the cooling system routed because the fluid in the transmission leaves the transmission at around 220 to 230 degrees and then it gets cooled down to whatever your radiator coolant is at which in my case is 190 then it gets cooled down another 15 to 20 degrees byte auxiliary cooler so when it goes back to the transmission after running through both coolers the fluid temp should be around 170 to 175.
I don't have a tempature gauge on the transmission to verify but that's what the builder told me and that's how the builder routed the transmission cooling system and he said my transmission fluid temp would always be in check with the two coolers. A synthetic would prob keep the temps down even better then standard mineral dexron3.
I don't know why my builder was against running a synthetic atf but it makes no sense to me to run such an old outdated fluid with all the good synthetic fluids there are today.
A-518's are just a T-727 with a New-Process built Overdrive unit added on the back. They don't care what ATF you run.
I don't see tearing down a good trans just to change the front planet. Yes, The splines can strip on Aluminum planets. But it is to far & in between that happens unless....
1. The Spline angle between the Planet & Shaft is wrong (3 different Spline angles are available)
2. The planet is fatigued from high mileage. (should not be the case on a fresh build)
3. High torque Diesel, Hemi/Wedge big block.
I don't see tearing down a good trans just to change the front planet. Yes, The splines can strip on Aluminum planets. But it is to far & in between that happens unless....
1. The Spline angle between the Planet & Shaft is wrong (3 different Spline angles are available)
2. The planet is fatigued from high mileage. (should not be the case on a fresh build)
3. High torque Diesel, Hemi/Wedge big block.
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
A-518's are just a T-727 with a New-Process built Overdrive unit added on the back. They don't care what ATF you run.
I don't see tearing down a good trans just to change the front planet. Yes, The splines can strip on Aluminum planets. But it is to far & in between that happens unless....
1. The Spline angle between the Planet & Shaft is wrong (3 different Spline angles are available)
2. The planet is fatigued from high mileage. (should not be the case on a fresh build)
3. High torque Diesel, Hemi/Wedge big block.
I'm upgrading the front planeterys because I am going to be throwing a lot more power at this transmission after I have a stroker kit installed. With the stroker kit I will be around 450 horse and around 500 ft kbs of torque. Not to mention I am already throwing quite a bit of power at this transmission already with my horsepower being 320 and my torque being around 400 ft lbs.
I don't want to stroke my engine first just to have to tear the transmission down to put tougher parts in it because the stroker is too much for it. I have already destroyed multiple u-joints and driveshafts with the power it's making right now and I have destroyed a chrysler 9 1/4 rear axle with the power it's making right Now. I don't want to see what kind of condition the stock front planeterys are in after a few thousand miles of tough driving on it with around 500 ft lbs of torque. I'm not chancing it, especially when I'm only out 700 bucks to buy and have the tougher 6 pinion steel planeterys installed.
A-518's are just a T-727 with a New-Process built Overdrive unit added on the back. They don't care what ATF you run.
I don't see tearing down a good trans just to change the front planet. Yes, The splines can strip on Aluminum planets. But it is to far & in between that happens unless....
1. The Spline angle between the Planet & Shaft is wrong (3 different Spline angles are available)
2. The planet is fatigued from high mileage. (should not be the case on a fresh build)
3. High torque Diesel, Hemi/Wedge big block.
I'm upgrading the front planeterys because I am going to be throwing a lot more power at this transmission after I have a stroker kit installed. With the stroker kit I will be around 450 horse and around 500 ft kbs of torque. Not to mention I am already throwing quite a bit of power at this transmission already with my horsepower being 320 and my torque being around 400 ft lbs.
I don't want to stroke my engine first just to have to tear the transmission down to put tougher parts in it because the stroker is too much for it. I have already destroyed multiple u-joints and driveshafts with the power it's making right now and I have destroyed a chrysler 9 1/4 rear axle with the power it's making right Now. I don't want to see what kind of condition the stock front planeterys are in after a few thousand miles of tough driving on it with around 500 ft lbs of torque. I'm not chancing it, especially when I'm only out 700 bucks to buy and have the tougher 6 pinion steel planeterys installed.
Back in the day when my 98 K1500 was pretty new, I put Mobil 1 tranny fluid in the 4L60E that was in the truck. This transmission did not seem to like a synthetic tranny fluid as the transmission acted like it was slipping. I didn't leave this fluid in it long before I switched back to a conventional Dexron III. The slipping feeling went away. I have never used a synthetic fluid in it since.
I guess you can try whatever type and brand you want and see how the transmission likes it.
Wayne
I guess you can try whatever type and brand you want and see how the transmission likes it.
Wayne
I don't have to run a synthetic atf I giess, I mean it's working just fine with the dexron3, I just figured it would last me longer if I put a synthetic in it and I figured I would be less likely to hurt it with a synthetic atf in it.
I know a lot of people who run type f atf in these transmissions with great success and that's even older fluid then dexron3.
I have considered trying type f for the firmer shifts type f would bring but I have been warned that type f lacks the lubricating properties to keep the overdrive unit lubricated. I have found 3 different synthetic type f fluids that I am considering trying after the planetery upgrade. Amsoil super shift is one and redline racing atf and royal purple makes a racing atf that's basically a synthetic type f too and I believe ati makes a super shift synthetic type f fluid.
Being synthetic that should be able to lube my overdrive unit and having low friction modifiers like regular type f would make it shift similar to the original type f fluid.
I know a lot of people who run type f atf in these transmissions with great success and that's even older fluid then dexron3.
I have considered trying type f for the firmer shifts type f would bring but I have been warned that type f lacks the lubricating properties to keep the overdrive unit lubricated. I have found 3 different synthetic type f fluids that I am considering trying after the planetery upgrade. Amsoil super shift is one and redline racing atf and royal purple makes a racing atf that's basically a synthetic type f too and I believe ati makes a super shift synthetic type f fluid.
Being synthetic that should be able to lube my overdrive unit and having low friction modifiers like regular type f would make it shift similar to the original type f fluid.
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