I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
Front wheel bearing replacement - 96 camry
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The estimate guide I have access to says 1.90 hours.
the bearing has to be pressed off the hub, and the new bearing pressed onto the hub.
the bearing has to be pressed off the hub, and the new bearing pressed onto the hub.
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
What is the purpose of asking here?
If using an indy shop owned by a family friend, didn't he/she offer a quote?
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
What is the purpose of asking here?
If using an indy shop owned by a family friend, didn't he/she offer a quote?
I am asking because the actual appointment and Dx is next Monday. I am preparing myself for what may lie ahead. In speaking to someone today, and rethinking what is happening with the car, I am 90% sure (not 100%) that the bearing is going bad.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
What is the purpose of asking here?
If using an indy shop owned by a family friend, didn't he/she offer a quote?
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
What is the purpose of asking here?
If using an indy shop owned by a family friend, didn't he/she offer a quote?
I get 2.3 hours non warranty. Realistically on a 18 yr old car this is to little.
I have to guess 3-3.5 is more like it.
If you get it done for around $200 + the bearing you did okay.
I have to guess 3-3.5 is more like it.
If you get it done for around $200 + the bearing you did okay.
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
I changed the wheel bearing in my 98 Sienna last year. What a pain in the neck job it was to do. I had to end up heading out to buy that special $99 bearing service kit to get the job done.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html.
I bought a cheap bearing and in a week the noise came back (but not as noisy). Make sure you get a good wheel bearing. You have to remove the knuckle on a Toyota to get the bearing out. That bearing will be rusted in place. The snap ring that holds it in is a bear to remove. The bearing must be pressed out towards the rear of the knuckle since there is a lip on the front of the bearing which holds it in. Also, the nut to the ABS speed sensor snapped off when I tried to remove it, so I had to disconnect the abs wiring from the harness to get the knuckle assembly totally disconnected. If they can change it in under 2 hours consider yourself lucky.
I need to change out the [censored] wheel bearing that's in there now, but I'm not in any rush.
This video is for a Mazda front wheel bearing, but the concept is similar to a Toyota. \
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BopxJyCHUY
Regards, JC.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html.
I bought a cheap bearing and in a week the noise came back (but not as noisy). Make sure you get a good wheel bearing. You have to remove the knuckle on a Toyota to get the bearing out. That bearing will be rusted in place. The snap ring that holds it in is a bear to remove. The bearing must be pressed out towards the rear of the knuckle since there is a lip on the front of the bearing which holds it in. Also, the nut to the ABS speed sensor snapped off when I tried to remove it, so I had to disconnect the abs wiring from the harness to get the knuckle assembly totally disconnected. If they can change it in under 2 hours consider yourself lucky.
I need to change out the [censored] wheel bearing that's in there now, but I'm not in any rush.
This video is for a Mazda front wheel bearing, but the concept is similar to a Toyota. \
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BopxJyCHUY
Regards, JC.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
The SKF bearing I bought for my truck was made in Mexico.
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
The SKF bearing I bought for my truck was made in Mexico.
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
The SKF bearing I bought for my truck was made in Mexico.
That might not be a problem, I don't know for sure.
Given how many GMC trucks are made there, I wouldn't be surprised if the replacement bearing came from the same factory of the OEM part.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
That is one part of the equation. Also remember that something rusty may break when trying to remove everything, and you might have to pay extra for it.
The other factor is pressing the old bearing and hub out and pressing a new one in. It takes some special tools that not all shops have.
Sometimes the knuckle has to be removed from the car, and that means altering the alignment with the strut bolts. No matter how carefully the mechanic marks the strut bolts, there is always the possibility of needing wheels re-aligned.
The unitized wheel bearings, such as the ones found on GMC trucks eliminated half the amount of labor to replace.
Do you know the manufacturer and price of of your wheel bearing? Cheap ones usually made in China only last one year. Companies like Timken, SKF, and KOYO might be made in China the correct way, but I don't know.
The SKF bearing I bought for my truck was made in Mexico.
That might not be a problem, I don't know for sure.
Given how many GMC trucks are made there, I wouldn't be surprised if the replacement bearing came from the same factory of the OEM part.
I'd say 3-3.5 too. Had one bearing done for me not long ago. Took about 3-3.5 which included an alignment.
Originally Posted By: mjk
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
Absolutely, 18 years is a long time. As artificialist said there could be other parts like brake dust shields that are rotten, rust can make life miserable and time consuming.
Having worked on rust belt cars In both the US and Germany for over 40 yrs, i don't know anything else.
I found out years ago that special tools to do jobs like this in the car only work till they are about 5 yrs old after that it gets in heavy presses and smoke wrenches.
I don't mean to sound pessimistic, if it goes easy you lucked out but be prepared to put a little more than quoted for other parts not in the quote like a ball joint, tie rod, dust shield, half shaft boot, etc.
I wish they came out with book times for North and South.
If he cant get a First world inc Korea made bearing go OEM, you really don't want Chinese in there.
thanks.
I assume your hour estimate has to do with corrosion, etc?
Absolutely, 18 years is a long time. As artificialist said there could be other parts like brake dust shields that are rotten, rust can make life miserable and time consuming.
Having worked on rust belt cars In both the US and Germany for over 40 yrs, i don't know anything else.
I found out years ago that special tools to do jobs like this in the car only work till they are about 5 yrs old after that it gets in heavy presses and smoke wrenches.
I don't mean to sound pessimistic, if it goes easy you lucked out but be prepared to put a little more than quoted for other parts not in the quote like a ball joint, tie rod, dust shield, half shaft boot, etc.
I wish they came out with book times for North and South.
If he cant get a First world inc Korea made bearing go OEM, you really don't want Chinese in there.
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
My advice: Do both sides at once with Timken or NSK or SKF bearings. One alignment. The other side will usually go soon afterwards. BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science. Might consider brake pads while in there as well.
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
My advice: Do both sides at once with Timken or NSK or SKF bearings. One alignment. The other side will usually go soon afterwards. BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science. Might consider brake pads while in there as well.
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Yeah, pads are 1yr old, and LF CV shaft was done at same time (same side as failing bearing).
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
My advice: Do both sides at once with Timken or NSK or SKF bearings. One alignment. The other side will usually go soon afterwards. BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science. Might consider brake pads while in there as well.
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am rather confident I have a left front wheel bearing going bad on my Camry. This actually would be the first bearing I've ever had go bad. What is the book time for this repair? Will be using an indy shop, that my friend owns. Thanks.
My advice: Do both sides at once with Timken or NSK or SKF bearings. One alignment. The other side will usually go soon afterwards. BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science. Might consider brake pads while in there as well.
Originally Posted By: Doog
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Doog
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
Trav, did you watch the youtube video posted by JC1 showing the Mazda front bearing replacement? I would appreciate hearing your comments about what and how he did the job. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: Doog
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
Trav, did you watch the youtube video posted by JC1 showing the Mazda front bearing replacement? I would appreciate hearing your comments about what and how he did the job. Thanks.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Doog
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
Yes in fact there are all these warnings about rusted parts and shops not having a press etc. . Not necessary. Wheel bearing 101 will tell you an experienced mechanic can do this with his eyes closed. The quality of the bearing is the single issue.
Originally Posted By: Doog
BTW, this repair on a Camry is not rocket science.
Did anyone say it was? I think everyone in this thread knows its a simple basic repair.
Yes in fact there are all these warnings about rusted parts and shops not having a press etc. . Not necessary. Wheel bearing 101 will tell you an experienced mechanic can do this with his eyes closed. The quality of the bearing is the single issue.
Whats your point? That fact that rust can turn a job a real mechanic (or anyone else) can do with his eyes closed is made more difficult by rust isn't a big deal or what?
Rusted parts can make the job more difficult and take therefore take more time and thats what the OP wanted to know. How much time.
The bearing quality is important but that is one aspect of the job, the age of the car and the amount of rust is another.
Unfortunately we cant see the car so why not alert the OP of the possibility it could run into extra time? No one said it will it just may.
Rusted parts can make the job more difficult and take therefore take more time and thats what the OP wanted to know. How much time.
The bearing quality is important but that is one aspect of the job, the age of the car and the amount of rust is another.
Unfortunately we cant see the car so why not alert the OP of the possibility it could run into extra time? No one said it will it just may.
Thanks for all the input. I'll know more tomorrow evening. I know my limitations on cars - I do some of the basics, but would never tackle something like this.
To reiterate, stay away from Chinese bearings - brands like Master Pro, etc (any house brand, I am assuming)?
To reiterate, stay away from Chinese bearings - brands like Master Pro, etc (any house brand, I am assuming)?
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