OIl for Kia/Hyundai 2.0T Direct-Injection

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: 91344George


Using 93 will NOT damage your engine or negatively affect it in ANY way. The ECU assures that with the mapping it uses.


I agree, Line's stance is that 87 is hurting the car though.. which is ridiculous for reasons stated above.

Originally Posted By: poiuy223
Don't mean to hijack this thread but since we're on the topic...

My next OCI is coming soon (hopefully during the weekend if I can manage to get my B_S kit in time) and I'll be using the M1 AFE 0w-30. Figured why not since winter is here.. Think this oil would be problematic in shearing too much?

I'm praying that my current 0w-40 UOA would turn out OK.


Poiuy223,
You should take note of that GM thread regarding 0w-30. A GM engineer says no 0w-30 meet dexos due to NOACK rating, which for dexos1 is a max allowed of 13%. Not necessarily the best thing for our DI engines, no? (edit: amsoil 0w-30 is under 13% (8.7), so never mind.. wonder how many other 0w-30 are. Shame companies don't post NOACK..)

You sample the M1 0w-40 yet?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima
Originally Posted By: 91344George


Using 93 will NOT damage your engine or negatively affect it in ANY way. The ECU assures that with the mapping it uses.


I agree, Line's stance is that 87 is hurting the car though.. which is ridiculous for reasons stated above.

Originally Posted By: poiuy223
Don't mean to hijack this thread but since we're on the topic...

My next OCI is coming soon (hopefully during the weekend if I can manage to get my B_S kit in time) and I'll be using the M1 AFE 0w-30. Figured why not since winter is here.. Think this oil would be problematic in shearing too much?

I'm praying that my current 0w-40 UOA would turn out OK.


Poiuy223,
You should take note of that GM thread regarding 0w-30. A GM engineer says no 0w-30 meet dexos due to NOACK rating, which for dexos1 is a max allowed of 13%. Not necessarily the best thing for our DI engines, no? (edit: amsoil 0w-30 is under 13% (8.7), so never mind.. wonder how many other 0w-30 are. Shame companies don't post NOACK..)

You sample the M1 0w-40 yet?


Doh! I have the M1 0w-30 AFE running right now..

I have my M1 0w-40 sample in the bottle. I'm getting it ready to ship out tomorrow. I waited till I hit 20k miles before I sample an UOA...all the things that need to be washed out should have been drained.
 
I mighta cried wolf on the electrodes, but I'm not betting mine on a couple bucks a fill up.

I ran 2 tanks of 87 all gas no EtOH and experienced butt dyno lack and surging at high revs WFO throttle that seemed to me the ECU banging into knock events & reducing boost or pulling timing or both.

No, I'm not data logging. I don't track it, lol. But I do a 0 - 80(120) twice a day so I know the full output characteristics pretty well.

I checked the sp gap on mine (.026 - .028 in) and went to .032 in, but the plugs looked, well, ...used @ 7700. I've pulled my Jeeps' at 90K and they looked about the same. Just sayin'...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
I mighta cried wolf on the electrodes, but I'm not betting mine on a couple bucks a fill up.

I ran 2 tanks of 87 all gas no EtOH and experienced butt dyno lack and surging at high revs WFO throttle that seemed to me the ECU banging into knock events & reducing boost or pulling timing or both.

No, I'm not data logging. I don't track it, lol. But I do a 0 - 80(120) twice a day so I know the full output characteristics pretty well.

I checked the sp gap on mine (.026 - .028 in) and went to .032 in, but the plugs looked, well, ...used @ 7700. I've pulled my Jeeps' at 90K and they looked about the same. Just sayin'...


I think you might have answered your issue right there. Re-gapping the plugs to proper spec should improve your engine more than 93 ever would.

I'm not saying its horrible to use 93, but I don't think rumors should be started the 87 is not good enough when thats not the case nor been proven. Nameless means well and they seem to have a great knowledge of performance but they only see 1 or 2 of these engines for like a week at a time for dimension checks then a dyno run or two. They didn't spend 46 months making the engine and then throw a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty at it.

For me, I fill up once a week and premium is about $.30 more a gallon. Thats ~$5+ more a week, ~$250+ a year, to MAYBE have 5-10 more HP at 6000 rpm. And Yes, You can get super cheap 93 when shopping and uses gas brand CC and/or grocery discounts, etc but for 1) its not usually Top Tier then, 2) its great to get 93 down at 87 pricing, but guess what? applying the same discounts on 87 still nets $.30 off a gallon in comparison,lol..Anyway, to each his own right?

Quote:
Doh! I have the M1 0w-30 AFE running right now..

I have my M1 0w-40 sample in the bottle. I'm getting it ready to ship out tomorrow. I waited till I hit 20k miles before I sample an UOA...all the things that need to be washed out should have been drained.


Later on in that GM thread it is noted that AFE 0w-30 passes GM spec 4718M. According to "buster" that means it must have 10% or less, like 0w-40 due to MB229.5 for example... I've seen the MB spec on paper, not that GM one to verify it requires 10% or less.

That's a vastly different oil than you've been using, how is it so far?
 
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima

Quote:
Doh! I have the M1 0w-30 AFE running right now..

I have my M1 0w-40 sample in the bottle. I'm getting it ready to ship out tomorrow. I waited till I hit 20k miles before I sample an UOA...all the things that need to be washed out should have been drained.


Later on in that GM thread it is noted that AFE 0w-30 passes GM spec 4718M. According to "buster" that means it must have 10% or less, like 0w-40 due to MB229.5 for example... I've seen the MB spec on paper, not that GM one to verify it requires 10% or less.

That's a vastly different oil than you've been using, how is it so far?


You can definitely feel that it's lighter. It's not bad, engine revs pretty smooth still. The only bad thing is that it's noisier than 0w-40.
 
You guys have long warranties, so what is the problem? Run an approved Hyundia/Kia syn oil and follow the recommended OCI... Make sure you take it to the dealer for the oil changes and tell them to document your concerns.
 
TJPark,
Yes I saw that, lol. Worst customer to botch an oil change on=a Car Magazine driving it as a long-termer!
For me, my Kia dealer is partnered with a Ford and their shop shares the building, BUT there are separate Kia techs and Ford techs. I've found my Kia dealer & shop to be great. But from that review and others I've read, Kia definitely needs to improve their network of dealers and shops. I'm glad I have a "good" one.

LineArray,
Again, one guy with a plug problem, and only 1 guy (you) posting that its probably from octane... There are many potential causes for plug failure, maybe the plug was defective from the beginning?
Also I noticed on the other gap/spark plug thread that the OP lists torque as ~3lb-ft? That's for the bolt holding the ignition coil. Somebody ought to post the correct spark plug torque of 11-18 lb-ft, before you get more plugs failing from "octane"
blush.gif


^agreed. But people are free to try to find the "best" oil for their car, regardless of length of warranty. (Over)Evaluating oil is why BITOG exists right? This thread is to discuss the "best" option(s) for our engine. Me using m1 ow-40 meets the specs.. well not the "0W" part, and I'm aware they could "use" that against me I guess. I'm be bold though..
 
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima

LineArray,
Again, one guy with a plug problem, and only 1 guy (you) posting that its probably from octane... There are many potential causes for plug failure, maybe the plug was defective from the beginning?
Also I noticed on the other gap/spark plug thread that the OP lists torque as ~3lb-ft? That's for the bolt holding the ignition coil. Somebody ought to post the correct spark plug torque of 11-18 lb-ft, before you get more plugs failing from "octane"
blush.gif


.


where's that ostrich with its head in the sand? maybe the boy crying wolf can make friends with it and they can build sand castles together.

RTFM

"Dealer said they called the tech line and they reported that they have had other instances of this happening."

Re: torque lol! my towers' torque specs were " the full effort of a man with an ordinary spud wrench. "

I just group them by drive socket sizes: 1/4", 3/8" , 1/2" etc. sp was 3/8" lol
 
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima
TJPark,
Yes I saw that, lol. Worst customer to botch an oil change on=a Car Magazine driving it as a long-termer!
For me, my Kia dealer is partnered with a Ford and their shop shares the building, BUT there are separate Kia techs and Ford techs. I've found my Kia dealer & shop to be great. But from that review and others I've read, Kia definitely needs to improve their network of dealers and shops. I'm glad I have a "good" one.


I have a Hyundai Genesis, my dealer is attached to a Ford dealer as well. I have been pretty pleased with the service so far. Considering I have only used them on occasion, I am pleased that they haven't given me a hard time about replacing some wear and tear items.
The m1 Euro 0W-40 is a good oil. It typically sheers down to a 30 grade over time anyway, especially in a motor with a blower. I'm more of a German Castrol guy, but either will work well in this application.
 
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
After I cooled down a bit, I went in and talked to the service manager, asking what had happened. He told me that the oil filter was put on crooked. I quickly asked whether they cross-threaded the fitting, but he responded that it was just put on crooked.


How does one put on an oil filter "crooked" without cross-threading it? How can anyone "qualified" to do an oil change possibly cross-thread a component that should be put on by hand in the first place?
 
you can't. My hunch is that they used the wrong filter which more or less sounds worse. If this was your car and it has basically been driven dry, what would you do?
 
Problem I see with the lower octane and then switching and going back and forth is, you WILL get pre-det.

My Murano did the same thing. Some ECU's are better than others... Wonder where Hyundai stands in that ?
 
Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Problem I see with the lower octane and then switching and going back and forth is, you WILL get pre-det.

My Murano did the same thing. Some ECU's are better than others... Wonder where Hyundai stands in that ?


If the ECU is working correctly this should never happen, all manufacturers program for these basic scenarios in the USA. They know that the car might at any given time have 87 or 93 or something inbetween, sure they will recommend a grade but the ECU has a number of maps that provide for any grade between 93 and 86. With mixing as you add or change to another grade there will never be enough of a quick change to leave the ECU slow to respond, UNLESS sensors are malfunctioning, or the ECU is malfunctioning. The Murano sounds like sensors or the ECU were not working correctly.
 
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
you can't. My hunch is that they used the wrong filter which more or less sounds worse. If this was your car and it has basically been driven dry, what would you do?


I'd do pretty much what the magazine guys did - insist that the manufacturer inspect it themselves. It's a bit smug, but obviously if the dealership cannot handle an oil change, they shouldn't be trusted to do a teardown.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i never heard a car company recommend a fuel additive im not saying they dont im just saying i never heard of it


Mercedes recommend Techron if top tier is not used.
 
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Mercedes recommend Techron if top tier is not used.

BMW does the same. I think it has to do with the precise fuel delivery system from the injectors.
 
The 'crooked oil filter' sure sounds like the seal from the original oil filter was stuck on the mounting surface, which when the second oil filter is installed makes for quite the spray of pressurized oil coming from between the two seals. It's a fairly common error, one that we saw a customer have at O'Reilly about twice a year or so. It can happen if the oil filter seal is not lubricated before installation, especially if the filter is over tightened with a tool.

If it really had been put on crooked, the technician would have noticed it was very hard to turn, and even if he hadn't somehow, the threads would be all boogered.

Just my .02 theory.

-Steve
 
Yknow, if I had one of these DI machines, my concern would be to reduce the surface tension of the fuel. Some laquer thinner would be ideal, given that its just a blend of toluene(octane booster), methyle ether ketone (like acetone, the surface tension reducing agent) and some other aromatics. I WOULD FULLY EXPECT BETTER FUEL ECONOMY AND LESS DILUTIONwhcich would probably reduce the volatility of the oil and thus intake deposits. Gasoline already contains toluene and ketones, and 'techron' like additived simply add a bit more to the fuel. Also my appologies for this terribly typed reply; i>m on the slowert smart phone known to mankind and am typing blindly considering it tkes 5 to 10 seconds for the.letters to appear
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Y
ACEA A3/B4 oils still relevant in 2024 for Turbo GDI 'High performance' Engines? - Hyundai ElantraN
2
Replies
32
Views
4K
edyvw
E
Engine Oil Type? 2004 Saab 9-3 2.0T
Replies
8
Views
859
hrv
W
Which oil to use on long term
Replies
13
Views
2K
medunko
Jordan_FX4
2022 Toyota Tundra 3.5 iForce Oil Selection
Replies
12
Views
489
Graham Piccinini
Z
I took the HPL plunge....
2 3
Replies
46
Views
2K
ZZman
Back
Top