OIl for Kia/Hyundai 2.0T Direct-Injection

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Originally Posted By: DFrost
I's appreciate a pointer toward a good discussion or literature about "how much HTHSV is enough?" and "how much VI do I need?" I think I've figured out that just because some is good, more is not always better.

Similarly, my earlier questions are still open about the significance of different manufacturer specs (dexos, HTO-06, VW 502/50, MB 229.5, etc.), different API, ACEA, and ILSAC specs, and specifically how I could relate any of those to different engine types, driving conditions, oci, or oil characteristics.

I highly respect the amazing knowledge that many around BITOG possess, but for a newb BITOG-er like myself, it can feel like the six blind guys describing an elephant by touch.
well to compare OEM specs you would need to know which bench tests the OEM's run. As for the euros they all follow the basic ACEA certs and then have their own specific tests layered on top. Visit the ACEA website and download the oil test sequences for 2010.
 
If that motor doesn't wash the valves with fuel you want to use a low/mid-SAPS oil. OEM which would fit the bill VW 507/504, MB 229.51, BMW LL04.
 
I run PP 5w30 in my DI CX7 Turbo Mazda because it meets the Honda/Acura turbo spec as does Mobil 1 5w30-I think. In my search for a low NOACH oil in a 5w30 I found Valoline Syn is one of, if not the lowest for an over the counter oil. I did stay away from PU because it has a nigher number than their PP. I do 6,000 mile oil changes and although the fuel% is ~ 1%, it is not affecting the wear values according to 3 UOAs.
 
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
frosty, you ever change that oil?

Probably will change it this weekend. I've decided to use M1 5W30 again for this change and get UOA's of what I remove and at the next oci. Then I'll try Redline 0W30 for a few oci's (183 VI, 3.2 HTHSV, 9% NOACK) with more UOA's. Depending on how I like the RL and how hard it is keep getting it (a nearby Carquest carries RL at good price), I might try a few oci's worth of M1 0W40 or Amsoil SSO 5W30 eventually.

Any ideas on how I could check intake valve deposits without removing the intake manifold?
 
Originally Posted By: BMWTurboDzl
If that motor doesn't wash the valves with fuel you want to use a low/mid-SAPS oil. OEM which would fit the bill VW 507/504, MB 229.51, BMW LL04.

Newb question: What is SAPS, and how do can I determine which oil is lower in it?

How does low SAPS relate to intake valve deposits?
 
Originally Posted By: DFrost
Originally Posted By: BMWTurboDzl
If that motor doesn't wash the valves with fuel you want to use a low/mid-SAPS oil. OEM which would fit the bill VW 507/504, MB 229.51, BMW LL04.

Newb question: What is SAPS, and how do can I determine which oil is lower in it?

How does low SAPS relate to intake valve deposits?


http://www.lubrizol.com/EuropeanEngineOils/E608.html
 
thanks 4 the reply. can all the 2.0T drivers tell me what the condition as observed by eyeball and nose of the used oil was? 2 changes on mine at short intervals were black and thin and smelled of gasoline...by short I mean FF @ 2.7K miles and M1 5w-30 @ 3.7K
 
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Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
thanks 4 the reply. can all the 2.0T drivers tell me what the condition as observed by eyeball and nose of the used oil was? 2 changes on mine at short intervals were black and thin and smelled of gasoline...by short I mean FF @ 2.7K miles and M1 5w-30 @ 3.7K

At 5K in my Kia 2.0T, the M1 5W30 has finally turned black, but didn't feel "thin" and smelled like oil (no fuel odor). Notably, this oil had 3K of predominantly highway driving on a vacation trip to SW Utah, so pretty benign conditions for oil. I'll get a UOA and post results over in that forum, and do the same with next oci with M1 5W30, before I try something different, like RL 0w30 for a few oci's.
 
Mine always turns black and rather quickly too. I've tried a few oils..

M1 5w-30
M1 0w-40
M1 5w-40 TDT
PU 5w-30
PU 5w-40

Out of them all, only PU 5w-40 didn't turn black as fast. I don't remember my oil smelling like gasoline though. But then again, I drive enough hwy miles every day to burn off fuel dilution.

Frosty, I'll be doing some UOAs soon too. First one will be the current 0w-40 that's about to hit 5k. Then I'm going to run PU 5w-30 and get that checked.

I'm tempted to try PYB 5w-30 and see how Dino performs...even though it is rather scary to use Dino in a turbo.
 
what do you think the dealers are using if you brought it in to them for an o/c?
Answer = bulk Mobil 5-30
I think you guys are really over analyzing the motor oil choice here, there are thousands of these little engines running happily along in the meadow on bulk dino 5-30
If you are buying a Kia/Hyundai based on value, does the manuf actually think their customers are going to pop for syn oil? My guess would be no
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
what do you think the dealers are using if you brought it in to them for an o/c?
Answer = bulk Mobil 5-30
I think you guys are really over analyzing the motor oil choice here, there are thousands of these little engines running happily along in the meadow on bulk dino 5-30
If you are buying a Kia/Hyundai based on value, does the manuf actually think their customers are going to pop for syn oil? My guess would be no

So are you suggesting that more expensive (i.e., syn) oil is not needed because the cars are less expensive?

Turbo and DI are new to Hyundai/Kia, and those engines are producing more specific power then many similar Euro and US motors. I thought this topic would be of interest to all turbo/DI users out there in BITOG-land.

My intent is to keep this car well past the 100K warranty, so I'm quite willing to invest a bit into engine protection throughout its life. And isn't BITOG devoted to the concept of "over analyzing the motor oil choice" anyway?
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
little engines


knocking down 14.6s 1/4mile times bone stock from a family four door grocery getter that goes for
and 10yr/100K mile warranty built in Alabama from more than half US sourced parts w/ 30 mpg combined
 
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Thought the best oil for DI'd engines would be the PU German Synthetic. ?

Correct me if I'm wrong. For the fuel dilution of course.

And to add :
I'm still waiting for valve-gunking from Kia and Hyundai.

Actually looking for their resolution responses for the rest of us DI'd peeps.
 
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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
You definitely need a catch can on both sides of the intake.

Just wondering where you drew this conclusion?

PRZ, what's PU German Synthetic? Did you mean PU euro formula?
 
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
You definitely need a catch can on both sides of the intake.

Just wondering where you drew this conclusion?

PRZ, what's PU German Synthetic? Did you mean PU euro formula?





He probably meant the German Castrol.
 
Many people regard the humble catch can as the Holy Grail for keeping the intake clear of oil.

It'll help, but people with DI motors are still experiencing problems.

I guess it's 'catch as catch can' around here!
 
What is odd is that the company specs 5-30 or 5-40 oil for this car, but it also notes:
Quote:
For improved vehicle performance, it is recommended to use the
engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-40(API SM / ILSAC GF-4).

With that being said...Try searching for a conventional motor oil in 5W-40 viscosity. I couldn't find any. Now since no oil manufacturer I know of makes a 5W-40 that isn't synthetic. Is Hyundai/Kia back dooring the use of synthetic oil in the 2.0T for optimal performance?
 
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