OIl for Kia/Hyundai 2.0T Direct-Injection

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DFrost

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Newbie forum member and a lifelong auto data junkie. I’ve learned enough from BITOG to be dangerous, and I’m a long-term synthetic oil advocate.

What’s a good synthetic oil for the 2.0 turbo, direct-injected motor in my new Kia Optima that I plan to keep well beyond the warranty? I’ll stick with 5K oci to maintain the 10 year/100K warranty, and get UOA’s from Blackstone periodically. The manual specifies 5w-30 or 5W-40, SL, SM or above; GF-3, GF-4 or above; ACEA A3 or A5, and says: “Recommendation: 5W-30 ACEA A5”.

My typical commute is 17 miles each way, 50/50 mix of city and highway (25-35 minutes), and this is our weekend/long-trip car. I don’t drive hard or use high revs often, but appreciate the turbo power advantage when “needed”. Previous car was an Audi A3 with the 2.0T FSI motor. Blackstone's UOAs with M1 0W-40 in that car recommended a 6100 mile oci, but I was adding 3 qts between changes, thanks to the poor PCV system in that early DI motor.

I want to do what’s possible to reduce intake valve deposits and protect the turbo. Better gas mileage and less expensive oil are nice, but engine protection is a higher priority.

My short list of readily available, acceptably priced (to my wallet) oils (pretty much everything is available here in Seattle):
- RL 5W-30 – Is it GF3, 4 or 5, and what’s its ACEA rating? Is it worth the extra expense with 5K oci?
- M1 0W-40 – frequent BITOG recommendation for turbos and high specific output engines, but not GF rated.
- M1 5W-30 or 0W-30 AFE – Meet all the recommended specs, but would 0W-40 be better?
- PP or PU 5W-30 – Do they meet ACEA A3 or A5?

Related questions, particularly with 5K oci and the features of this type of engine:
- Is low NOACK important to reduce DI valve deposits?
- Redline doesn’t use any VII. Is that a benefit to DI valves, as stated in the Pennzoil FAQ?
- What's the significance of high VI, TBN and low NOACK data?
- What HTHS is needed for long engine and turbo life?
- How important is base stock, or does the specific oil data describe what matters?
- Is lighter oil better for my use and oci? (I read Motor Oil University twice and that’s still not clear.)
- Am I over-thinking this? (But this is BITOG!)
 
At a 5k interval to maintain the warranty, use what ever ACEA 3 certified 5w30 synthetic is on sale.
 
If they don't give any reasonable recommendation considering DI, then I'd lok to get an oil that meets other makers' specs for DI engines and also crosses to the requirement in your OM.

Low NOACK is key as a factor.
 
RL 5W-30 and M1 0W-40 are heavier than necessary for your application. If you like RL, their 0W-20 (HTHSV 3.0cP) would be the grade to choose although RL won't meet warranty requirements (RL may back you up though).

M1 0W-30, M1 5W-30, PP & PU 5W-30 are all good choices although any syn' 5W-30 on sale would be fine.

I haven't seen any evidence that a NOACK percentage difference of a couple of percent makes any measureable difference to intake track and valve deposits but if it makes you feel like you're making an effort then go for an oil with a NOACK under 10%.
I like OldCowboy's idea of installing a catch can as that's the only for sure solution but is undoubtedly not warranty approved.
 
Synthetic 5W30 or 0W30 will be good, looking for one with Honda approved HT06. Oil catch can is a good idea, also add a bottle of fuel system cleaner, Chevron Techron or Redline SI-1 or Regain, at every oil change.
 
Can any of you BITOGers provide the NOACK data for M1 products? Also, what are their base stocks to satisfy my curiosity?

Rand's question to HTSS_TR's suggestion about fuel additive is interesting. Kia also recommends a fuel additive "if not using a Top Tier gasoline" but says nothing about why.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DFrost
Can any of you BITOGers provide the NOACK data for M1 products? Also, what are their base stocks to satisfy my curiosity?

No one knows for sure, but their 0W-XX oils do contain more GP IV and possibly GP V stocks than their 5W-XX and heavier oils. But don't sweat the base oil composition so much, it is performance that counts.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: DFrost
Can any of you BITOGers provide the NOACK data for M1 products? Also, what are their base stocks to satisfy my curiosity?

No one knows for sure, but their 0W-XX oils do contain more GP IV and possibly GP V stocks than their 5W-XX and heavier oils. But don't sweat the base oil composition so much, it is performance that counts.

Thanks. That's what I expected to hear, and answers my question about base stock significance. Still curious about NOACK for M1.

Another question related to your recommendation above: When is HTHSV greater than 3.0-ish important?
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Synthetic 5W30 or 0W30 will be good, looking for one with Honda approved HT06. ...

I see that M1 5W-30 is dexos and HT06-approved, whereas 0W-30 is not. Similarly, M1 0W-40 meets Mercedes' and VW's specs, unlike other M1 formulations.

I'd appreciate a quick education on the significance, having noticed many references in other threads about those specs representing higher standards. With that education I expect to be REALLY be dangerous in the car parts store!
 
I've removed the FF from my 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.0T and it was black and smelled of fuel at 2200 miles. Removed M1 5w-30 after 3300 more miles and same.
Is it worth doing an analysis to try to move closer to the 5K easy drive schedule, or just stick w/ any synth on sale and the 3K severe schedule? I, like OP, am gonna keep this thing well past the 100K warranty.
Just to add to OP's info, the manual on mine says for added performance use 5w-40 and no mention of synth anywhere. Using fram extended guard filters and ST 5w-30 synth right now, but have a variety of on sale synths and pureones stashed. I have a little longer commute than OP and drive quite a bit more aggressively.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rand
how does that help.. or you are saying to just keep the injectors clean?
Hyundai recommends fuel additive (Techron) at every oil change if not using top tier gasoline. I figure it can't hurt. ThetaII engine uses split event GDI to give the intake valve a whiff of gas while still open. But as OP, I'm really concerned about buildup and turbo life as main interest in running good oil on short OCI's...
 
While Mobil doesn't give out NOAK specs( for whatever reason ) others do. Pennzoil's Ultra 5W30 NOACK is 11.9 ( SM spec )
RedLines 5W30 NOACK is 6 ( but has a very high HTHS for a 5W30
of 3.8 ) and Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 is 7.0. It appears that Amsoil and Red Line NOACK specs run close to just above HALF of what Pennzoil and probably Mobil 1's are. That
undoubtedly means less volatility with excellent overall
engine protection.
 
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
While Mobil doesn't give out NOAK specs( for whatever reason ) others do. Pennzoil's Ultra 5W30 NOACK is 11.9 ( SM spec )
RedLines 5W30 NOACK is 6 ( but has a very high HTHS for a 5W30
of 3.8 ) and Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 is 7.0. It appears that Amsoil and Red Line NOACK specs run close to just above HALF of what Pennzoil and probably Mobil 1's are. That
undoubtedly means less volatility with excellent overall
engine protection.

Yup, those NOACK figures, and zero VII in RL keep bringing that one back as a possibility.

DI engines are showing up more and more, so hopefully the oil whizzes will address DI valve deposit concerns. Those popped up with regularity on the VW/Audi 2.0T FSI forums, but that early DI motor had a pretty poor PCV system.
 
Rather than the "oil whizzes" it may be better for the
engine ENGINEERS to do a better job "engineering" and
TESTING those engines BEFORE they wind up in cars owners
hands. In any case , good synthetic oil, and careful maintenance procedures seem needed to a much greater degree
with GDI engines.

While RL may not have as much VII's as other oils, keep in mind
Caterhams comments about Rl's 5W30 HTHS of 3.8 is MUCH higher
than necessary in your vehicle and your use. FWIW Amsoils Signature Series 5W30 HTHS is 3.2, much lower for a lighter oil
than RL and still has that low NOAK of 7.0.
 
I's appreciate a pointer toward a good discussion or literature about "how much HTHSV is enough?" and "how much VI do I need?" I think I've figured out that just because some is good, more is not always better.

Similarly, my earlier questions are still open about the significance of different manufacturer specs (dexos, HTO-06, VW 502/50, MB 229.5, etc.), different API, ACEA, and ILSAC specs, and specifically how I could relate any of those to different engine types, driving conditions, oci, or oil characteristics.

I highly respect the amazing knowledge that many around BITOG possess, but for a newb BITOG-er like myself, it can feel like the six blind guys describing an elephant by touch.
 
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