- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
Fundamentally, fluid level cannot be accurately measured if the unit is not level.I've seen in some places that the transmission itself has to to be completely level, but then other places (the ZF document or that video of ZF representatives) where there is no consideration of the levelness of the transmission.
Is this something that others have paid attention to?
Makes sense. I've seen a picture of a green card of some kind saying how important it is, but the ZF procedure doesn't mention it. Is ZF trusting people too much?Fundamentally, fluid level cannot be accurately measured if the unit is not level.
I've done many spill and fills with both the Charger and Durango. @CarbonSteel is spot on with his directions.
Your pan does not have a drain plug?Any chance you’ve used the mityvac to pull fluid out through the full hole?
Was browsing some pan off pictures and I’m not sure if it’s possible.
I have not, but my trans has a drain plug, so no need to.Any chance you’ve used the mityvac to pull fluid out through the full hole?
Was browsing some pan off pictures and I’m not sure if it’s possible.
Your pan does not have a drain plug?
It’s worth pulling the pan.
Also, I’m somewhat intrigued by this tool:
7650 - Transmission Oil Drain & Flush Kit
Fully drains / flushes transmission oil cleanly with the use of air pressure Most draining methods use gravity, leaving up to 2.6L of oil left in the system Using air pressure, you can remove over 90% of the Transmission Fluid from the system Services Mercedes 722.6 & 722.9 Transmission and BMW...ctatools.com
Your pan does not have a drain plug?...........
I would stick with the ZF Lifeguard fluid. I’m personally not fully confident in some of testing being done by additive suppliers; I’ve been burned before, though not for this particular application.It has a drain plug but it’s practically useless because of an exhaust crossover pipe. (PPE even says the exhaust needs to be at least loosened to install their pan) I’m thinking through future changes. I want to change the filter soon and I’m thinking of only keeping Lifeguard 8 in it until about 100,000 miles just in case of any “good will warranty” needs lol
Was planning on having a local guy that I use for stuff I don’t want to do handle the filter because of that exhaust mess (he’s also the only guy who’s given me any level of confidence in changing this pan). But if I could use a Mityvac or something similar to pull fluid out of the fill hole, I would do that myself a time or two to get a higher percentage of fresh fluid.
After 100k, maybe change over to HPL Green. But I’d want to get as much of it to be HPL as possible. So at that point it would be either evacuation or a PPE to make it reasonable. Rod Knock gave me some good tips for switching to the PPE pan.