Your Current Favorite 3/8th drive Ratchet ?

I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
 
I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
I've got both brands with flex head and I agree. The ICON G2 is much refine with the locking flex head and the socket fitment. However, the 120XP have a slimmer profile head and less back drag due to the dual paw and more teeth count. Benefits on getting the ICON is the walk in and walk out warranty. I suggest you put some thin oil and it would improve the experience.
 
I always reach for this, my Harbor Freight swivel head. Appears to be "loosely" based on the Snap-On design at a much more attractive price and with easy socket ejection.

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I have the ICON 3\8 and 1\4 swivels....
A quick feel and visual inspection of both ICON and Pittsburgh, showed very little differences. I would not be surprised if they were exactly the same.
 
I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
I "exercised the gear" in a few ratchets with a lot of back drag with a drill. After lubing the ratchet I took a socket extension attached it to the ratchet, and put it into a drill chuck. Then I worked the ratchets using the drill in both directions for a few minutes to break them in, it helped.
 
I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
Just use a torx bit in a small impact drive to loosen the plate screws, they got generous with the loctite. I used Mobilux EP 1 NLGI 1 grease.
A tube will last 3 lifetimes for these jobs. Being a sealed head dropping it a can of ATF does not do the job.


 
I used Krytox grease instead. I exercised the gear, but it had no effect. You could see on the gear where the black oxide coating was unaffected. There was only the smallest touch of lubrication inside. I think that these ratchets are a good value, but not a top-shelf quality level.
 
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Just bought a Pittsburg Harbor Freight composite for $9.99,,,just really nice on the hands, made in Korea too. put some heavy force on it and it held up just fine.
 
My favorites are my Koken Zeal 3/8 in 1/4 head.

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I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube

a little heat on the plate screws will loosen the thread locker to gain access for a light lube like superlube
 
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Are the plate screws on that Icon ratchet held by blue? Or red? What would happen if you guessed wrong and messed up the screws trying to get them out
Is this a real question? Just put a good quality bit into the screws and turn. 99% of the time, they will come out with reasonable force, regardless of what type of Loctite is used. If the screw is particularly stuck, stop before you strip the head and apply heat then. I do not apply heat preemptively, just when it's needed.
 
Is this a real question? Just put a good quality bit into the screws and turn. 99% of the time, they will come out with reasonable force, regardless of what type of Loctite is used. If the screw is particularly stuck, stop before you strip the head and apply heat then. I do not apply heat preemptively, just when it's needed.
Question? What question? Simply stating my opinion like you. Right? I simply use a soldering gun on the head of the fastener for a minute, just in case it feels tight. No brute force and no chance of buggering up the screw head. In case you don't know, the heat liquifies lock-tite, its not a rust locked bolt that heat may loosen but chemical hold. It feels like it was greased when you loosen it up with a little heat. I even found the blue to be "stubborn" at times. Is this a real comment...? Or just trying to be the smartest guy in the room?
 
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