I figured but the talk of length in Post #128 caused me to wonder if people were just gunning for a very specific length in a given anvil size.The 1/4 inch heads are smaller than the 3/8 heads. The whole point of doing this.
Thank you!
I figured but the talk of length in Post #128 caused me to wonder if people were just gunning for a very specific length in a given anvil size.The 1/4 inch heads are smaller than the 3/8 heads. The whole point of doing this.
I've got both brands with flex head and I agree. The ICON G2 is much refine with the locking flex head and the socket fitment. However, the 120XP have a slimmer profile head and less back drag due to the dual paw and more teeth count. Benefits on getting the ICON is the walk in and walk out warranty. I suggest you put some thin oil and it would improve the experience.I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
Where do you oil it and what kind of oil do you recommendI suggest you put some thin oil
I have the ICON 3\8 and 1\4 swivels....I always reach for this, my Harbor Freight swivel head. Appears to be "loosely" based on the Snap-On design at a much more attractive price and with easy socket ejection.
View attachment 320782
I "exercised the gear" in a few ratchets with a lot of back drag with a drill. After lubing the ratchet I took a socket extension attached it to the ratchet, and put it into a drill chuck. Then I worked the ratchets using the drill in both directions for a few minutes to break them in, it helped.I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
Just use a torx bit in a small impact drive to loosen the plate screws, they got generous with the loctite. I used Mobilux EP 1 NLGI 1 grease.I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube.
I've got 2, of different lengths. Had them a long yime.I have an old Crafstman that works great.
Super Lube on the gear.Where do you oil it and what kind of oil do you recommend
I used Krytox grease instead. I exercised the gear, but it had no effect. You could see on the gear where the black oxide coating was unaffected. There was only the smallest touch of lubrication inside. I think that these ratchets are a good value, but not a top-shelf quality level.Super Lube on the gear.
I backpedaled out of the Gearwrench 120XP, and bought an Icon instead. And just my opinion, but WOW, it's a nice piece. Been reading how some samples have a wobbly flex head, but mine is nice and tight. Backdrag seems medium. Apparently, they benefit from some break-in and thin lube. I'll have to figure out how to exercise the gear, and I've got tons of different types of lube
I liked the reply before you made the edita little heat on the plate screws will loosen the thread locker to gain access for a light lube like superlube
I liked the reply before you made the edit
No need for heat with blue loctite.a little heat on the plate screws will loosen the thread locker to gain access for a light lube like superlube
Are the plate screws on that Icon ratchet held by blue? Or red? What would happen if you guessed wrong and messed up the screws trying to get them out?No need for heat with blue loctite.
Is this a real question? Just put a good quality bit into the screws and turn. 99% of the time, they will come out with reasonable force, regardless of what type of Loctite is used. If the screw is particularly stuck, stop before you strip the head and apply heat then. I do not apply heat preemptively, just when it's needed.Are the plate screws on that Icon ratchet held by blue? Or red? What would happen if you guessed wrong and messed up the screws trying to get them out
Question? What question? Simply stating my opinion like you. Right? I simply use a soldering gun on the head of the fastener for a minute, just in case it feels tight. No brute force and no chance of buggering up the screw head. In case you don't know, the heat liquifies lock-tite, its not a rust locked bolt that heat may loosen but chemical hold. It feels like it was greased when you loosen it up with a little heat. I even found the blue to be "stubborn" at times. Is this a real comment...? Or just trying to be the smartest guy in the room?Is this a real question? Just put a good quality bit into the screws and turn. 99% of the time, they will come out with reasonable force, regardless of what type of Loctite is used. If the screw is particularly stuck, stop before you strip the head and apply heat then. I do not apply heat preemptively, just when it's needed.