Wrapping screw on oilfilter in heatinsulation to increase warm up in cold climates?

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JC1

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I can't believe we are up to close to 80 posts for this topic.

The million dollar question for flyingDutchman is how much are you going to charge your customer for this Rube Goldberg contraption??
 
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(sigh) this place sometimes.

Guy has a high dollar motor and understands that not properly warming the oil up regularly is less then ideal. Seriously folks, this is common knowledge around here.

So he thinks insulating the oil filter since he does "short trips" in a cool environment.

There is no harm in insulating the oil filter, not in the winter. I would probably just make a slip on double walled metal shield vs some sort of fiber insulation, but it will offer a tiny bit of benifit.

All that said, this guy would be far better off just running the engine for a solid 40 minutes once every two weeks or so. This isn't a situation for addative activation, etc etc. Biggest worry here would be maybe fuel dilution and moisture attraction. Making sure those are burned off every two weeks or so would be your biggest benifit.
 
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If you’re that worried about your oil filter getting cold just use these. I recommend the foot sole version if you have a bigger filter.
 

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Flyingdutchman

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ounds like a reasonable idea, you may also look to block off ~ 1/2 of the radiator frontal area, but carefully monitor your engine coolant temps.

Many of the other responses I have read here are unhelpful and inconsiderate - but this is a forum of mostly laypersons.

BITOG is going down the drain. But it was never NORIA, though I thought it had higher aspirations.

BTW , My Wife is Dutch 👍 I recall her father was grew up near The Hague.
Yeah i noticed that not all reactions where that helpful and most find faster engine warm up and holding the heat in for longer not that important.

Not knowing all the inventions manufacturers have used to improve this and how this is needed to comply with EURO 6 emmisions etc..
If i am not mistaking a lot of this is/was also mandated by california emission laws.

VVT adjustment scavenges exhaust gasses for warm up
MAP controlled thermostat by ecu, modern coolingsystems are controlled by ecu and not thermostats. Modern thermostats open at around 110c in failsafe.
Radiator shuttters controlled by ecu
Engine bay insolation
Engine underplate
Engine isolation blanket
Automatic software program does not apply torque converter and holds higher gear during warm up
(electric) variable volume waterpump
Using thinner cylinders walls so heat is transferred faster
Headifold (exhaust manifold molded in cylinderhead)
Composite oilfilterhousing
Composite sump
Composite valve covers
Composite intake
Water to oil heat exchanger
Alluminium engine blocks/clinderheads
Reducing the amount of oil in an engine so it heats up faster
Electric fan instead of visous fan which tends to always turn a little
mercedes used a system for some period where the alternator heated a heating element in the water which heated up the water and also the power need heated the alternator which was also water cooled.
Turbo is not directly installed for engine heat up but it does help a lot.

And probably somethings that i forgot.


There is no drawback in an engine that heats up faster and holds the heat in for longer.


For dutch terms i live far away from the hague, but it in reality its only a 2 hour drive :ROFLMAO:
 
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So many things are inaccurate about your last post I don’t know where to begin.

Like this one?


mercedes used a system for some period where the alternator heated a heating element in the water which heated up the water and also the power need heated the alternator which was also water cooled.

A water cooled alternator? Now I have heard everything.

I suspect we are being played here.
 

4WD

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Texas
Like this one?




A water cooled alternator? Now I have heard everything.

I suspect we are being played here.
C’mon man … even Walmart sells those

 
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No its not that cold but with the short trips most cars see overhere it causes a lot of sludging in the valve cover.

While the thermostat controlled water cooling reaches operating temps in around 10 minutes the oil often takes 2 to 3 times as long.
I would not consider 16 miles one way to be a short trip?? Shoot my daily commute is 4 miles each way and my cars get warmed up. But I do also let them warm up when I start them as well.
 
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Not knowing all the inventions manufacturers have used to improve this and how this is needed to comply with EURO 6 emmisions etc..
If i am not mistaking a lot of this is/was also mandated by california emission laws.

There is no drawback in an engine that heats up faster and holds the heat in for longer.
Forgot building a camp fire directly underneath the oil pan. :D
 
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Warming up your engine slowly and driving reasonably while it warms might be better for longevity. Warming up the engine quickly is better for emissions, but you're also increasing the thermal stresses.
 

OVERKILL

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Why not use a hotter than oe thermostat?

That has zero impact on warm-up speed. The T-stat is closed during warm-up.

As I remarked on, and gave examples of, the most effective mechanism for increasing oil temperature is coupling it to coolant temperature. If the oil is already being heated by the coolant, increasing the insulation at the oil filter adds very little value.

So, with the coolant driving the oil temp in a situation with a heat exchanger, the most effective way to increase warm-up speed (of the oil) is to increase the rate at which coolant comes up to temperature. Electric fans, grille shutters, under-hood insulation and under engine panels to reduce heat escaping help significantly.
 
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I figured since the thermostate would open later plus more heat overall the heat could be transfered to the oil thus helping bake the moisture out of the oil. Doesnt oil go up to the head and transfer the heat from the hot cylinder head and back into the pan?
 
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Flyingdutchman, your idea sounds interesting. It would also be interesting to see if you can measure any difference.

I don't know how, or if, this actually works but one other thing you may want to explore, if you are looking at reducing warm-up times, is Amsoil's Dominator Coolant Boost. Not sure if you can get it where you are but if you can, maybe something to look into. They claim that it reduced warm-up time on their test engine, 30degF to 120 degF and 30degF to 180degF, to almost half the time it took compared to just 50/50 mix of water and coolant. It also reduced operating temp some as well.
Dominator® Coolant Boost RDCB - AMSOIL
 

OVERKILL

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I figured since the thermostate would open later plus more heat overall the heat could be transfered to the oil thus helping bake the moisture out of the oil. Doesnt oil go up to the head and transfer the heat from the hot cylinder head and back into the pan?

By that point, the engine would already be up to temp. During the period we are discussing, the T-stat will be closed, so going hotter will have no impact.

Oil heats far slower than coolant, particularly in cooler temps, this is why an oil-to-coolant heat exchanger is beneficial, because it significantly increases the rate at which the oil comes up to temp, which is what the OP is trying to achieve. Since he already has one in play, any additional gains will be primarily realized by reducing the time required to get the coolant up to temp, so better insulating the engine bay, maybe blocking off the rad...etc.
 

Flyingdutchman

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186
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The Netherlands
So many things are inaccurate about your last post I don’t know where to begin.
Okay then pick the points and explain my mistakes, i am here to learn.


A water cooled alternator? Now I have heard everything.

I suspect we are being played here.
As others have told you watercooled alternators are used and have been used by multiple manufacturers. Example in the picture is 2003 bmw v12.
Why not use a hotter than oe thermostat?
Modern cars do use higher temp operating thermostats, for example the new mercedes engine thermostats open at 110c but they are ECU controlled.
When the car warms up the ECU lets the coolant become 110c to heat soak the engine and oil fast, after that the ecu takes over control of the thermostat and keeps it around 97c. But it can also let it run a little hotter on low load constant driving speeds, but it also lowers the temp when youre flooring it

so better insulating the engine bay, maybe blocking off the rad...etc.
Yes as i said we will be fitting an undershield to the engine bay just like modern cars, radiator shutters would be most ideal but then were going out of budget. Its only a couple of cheap things that we will do. I would love to build it though, however there is no room foor it either.

I don't know how, or if, this actually works but one other thing you may want to explore, if you are looking at reducing warm-up times, is Amsoil's Dominator Coolant Boost. Not sure if you can get it where you are but if you can, maybe something to look into. They claim that it reduced warm-up time on their test engine, 30degF to 120 degF and 30degF to 180degF, to almost half the time it took compared to just 50/50 mix of water and coolant. It also reduced operating temp some as well.
If this is true this would be very intersting here in Holland for people who drive a lot of short distances, only thing i am not sure about is how would this work??

Thanks for all the guys who are sending great comments and ideas.
For some however i wonder why there even on BITOG, If you live in an area where they still drive carburated v8s than i dont think this topic is interesting for you.
 

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