JHZR2
Staff member
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
Worried for Winter and its salty roads
- Thread starter MrRPM
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If its a car worth saving simply don't drive it in the salt.
If not just spray it off real good with fresh water when you can and touch up the new rust areas with POR and a bit of paint. By the time it rots out it will be pretty old.
If not just spray it off real good with fresh water when you can and touch up the new rust areas with POR and a bit of paint. By the time it rots out it will be pretty old.
One thing that shocks me about visiting Canada is the condition of the cars. I see cars from the 80s and 90s with no visible rust. Look at that same car in Ohio, and it is swiss cheese.
My theory is the colder temps in Canada prevent the rusting process from occurring. I would also think Canada would need to use Calcium Hypochlorite more than rock salt due to the temps.
Sound right?
My theory is the colder temps in Canada prevent the rusting process from occurring. I would also think Canada would need to use Calcium Hypochlorite more than rock salt due to the temps.
Sound right?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
Get the aerosol cans and it's done for you. I've used that method the past 2 years on our cars since I lack an air compressor.
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
Get the aerosol cans and it's done for you. I've used that method the past 2 years on our cars since I lack an air compressor.
Yeah and Alaska cars don't rust like the Northeast ones do.
I think Canadians just know how to drive, and settle for a well-graded, snow/sand/ice covered road all winter long. We often find a crazy compulsion to get down to black tar no matter what. (This is getting better with municipalities so cheap they go easy on salt now.)
I think Canadians just know how to drive, and settle for a well-graded, snow/sand/ice covered road all winter long. We often find a crazy compulsion to get down to black tar no matter what. (This is getting better with municipalities so cheap they go easy on salt now.)
This is what I use:
yeah if I had my choice id rather have No salt at all, but i do have the advantage of driving a jeep.
whats big on wranglers for rust is the frame, it will actually crack and alot of guys end up doing frame swaps. I don't have the tools or resources to do a frame swap. I work on ATVs, Motorcycles, Sleds, boats, ect.... for me the automotive world is still new.
If I truly had my way I would ride my 4 wheeler every where. The jeep is as close as I can legally get.
I do get the jeep into a quarter wash every week and spray underneath as good as possible and then do the body 2nd priority.
Im going to wax the [censored] out of the body for winter.
whats big on wranglers for rust is the frame, it will actually crack and alot of guys end up doing frame swaps. I don't have the tools or resources to do a frame swap. I work on ATVs, Motorcycles, Sleds, boats, ect.... for me the automotive world is still new.
If I truly had my way I would ride my 4 wheeler every where. The jeep is as close as I can legally get.
I do get the jeep into a quarter wash every week and spray underneath as good as possible and then do the body 2nd priority.
Im going to wax the [censored] out of the body for winter.
I had a 1982 Mazda B2000 pickup which I bought new and figured if I kept the chassis washed it would not rust badly. I washed it once a week, carefully flushing the underside. In the winter I used a coin-operated car wash.
Made absolutely no difference, the body rusted away and I had to scrap the truck in 1996.
Made absolutely no difference, the body rusted away and I had to scrap the truck in 1996.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Yeah and Alaska cars don't rust like the Northeast ones do.
I think Canadians just know how to drive,
what conceited nonsense.
Yeah and Alaska cars don't rust like the Northeast ones do.
I think Canadians just know how to drive,
what conceited nonsense.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
aren't they both the same thing, lanolin?
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
aren't they both the same thing, lanolin?
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Yeah and Alaska cars don't rust like the Northeast ones do.
I think Canadians just know how to drive,
what conceited nonsense.
He can't really be conceited if he's not from Canada.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Yeah and Alaska cars don't rust like the Northeast ones do.
I think Canadians just know how to drive,
what conceited nonsense.
He can't really be conceited if he's not from Canada.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I think Canadians just know how to drive, and settle for a well-graded, snow/sand/ice covered road all winter long. We often find a crazy compulsion to get down to black tar no matter what. (This is getting better with municipalities so cheap they go easy on salt now.)
I agree 100%.
Look at DC any time it snows and the combination of fear of lawsuits and flipped school busses...
I think Canadians just know how to drive, and settle for a well-graded, snow/sand/ice covered road all winter long. We often find a crazy compulsion to get down to black tar no matter what. (This is getting better with municipalities so cheap they go easy on salt now.)
I agree 100%.
Look at DC any time it snows and the combination of fear of lawsuits and flipped school busses...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
aren't they both the same thing, lanolin?
Maybe? Probably? All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Carwell sells the Krown products in the USA. I think that or fluid film is the way to go, but FF needs specialty spraying products to get it atomized, krown can be done with air.
aren't they both the same thing, lanolin?
Maybe? Probably? All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
I bought the above pictured sprayer from the leading Fluid Film distributor, that is the recommended application tool and it works at between 60-80psi on common shop air.
I don't know where you get that you need some type of special spray gun, but I use it and I can tell you that it works perfectly with this spray gun from a normal air compressor.
All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
I bought the above pictured sprayer from the leading Fluid Film distributor, that is the recommended application tool and it works at between 60-80psi on common shop air.
I don't know where you get that you need some type of special spray gun, but I use it and I can tell you that it works perfectly with this spray gun from a normal air compressor.
Just take a day or two trip up to Canada to a Krown center. I'm considering taking the cruze up to montreal for a weekend maybe.
Thick rubberized undercoatings are about the worst thing you can do. They crack and hide rust until its really bad. They work good for about 5 years, and hide rust for the next 15.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
I bought the above pictured sprayer from the leading Fluid Film distributor, that is the recommended application tool and it works at between 60-80psi on common shop air.
I don't know where you get that you need some type of special spray gun, but I use it and I can tell you that it works perfectly with this spray gun from a normal air compressor.
Dan at Fluid Film. Ill paste my email response from him as well as my initial question below:
Hi,
Both products will penetrate quite effectively given time. The main difference between the two are the environments they were manufactured for. Our regular Fluid Film holds up much longer to UV exposure than the Liquid A product, so it is the only product that should be considered in any application where the sun exposure will be an issue. The Liquid A is used more as a "Float Coat" in marine tanks, or as a dipping material for metals before shipping or storage, due to its low viscosity.
Our regular Fluid Film will work better for the majority of applications. In bulk, the easiest way to apply the regular Fluid Film is by airless paint sprayer, with a psi of around 2,000 for best atomization.
Both products are safe on paint, plastic, and oil-resistant synthetic rubbers. The Gel that the Liquid A forms is unique to that product because of its designed use in a marine environment.
What are your desired applications?
Regards,
Dan Wxxxxxx
Technical Sales Manager
Eureka Chemical Company
234 Lawrence Ave.
South San Francisco, CA 94080
www.fluid-film.com
-----Original Message-----
From:
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 8:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Fluid film and Liquid A
Hello,
Can you please help me to understand the difference between fluid film and the liquid A? It seems that the liquid A has a penetrating capability that the standard fluid film does not. Is this due to a different chemical composition, or some other chemical difference?
Would one have a more damaging effect on rubber or plastic? Is one easier to spray?
Is the "gel" that liquid A forms different from the water interaction with standard fluid film?
Will either solve fully cured automotive type paint?
Thanks for your assistance!
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
All Im saying is that the MFR of FF has recommended latex paint sprayer type equipment that produces very high pressure. Krown comes out with just air. If FF works in alternate setups, great, but its not what their mfr recommends, FWIW. Just relaying what they told me.
I bought the above pictured sprayer from the leading Fluid Film distributor, that is the recommended application tool and it works at between 60-80psi on common shop air.
I don't know where you get that you need some type of special spray gun, but I use it and I can tell you that it works perfectly with this spray gun from a normal air compressor.
Dan at Fluid Film. Ill paste my email response from him as well as my initial question below:
Hi,
Both products will penetrate quite effectively given time. The main difference between the two are the environments they were manufactured for. Our regular Fluid Film holds up much longer to UV exposure than the Liquid A product, so it is the only product that should be considered in any application where the sun exposure will be an issue. The Liquid A is used more as a "Float Coat" in marine tanks, or as a dipping material for metals before shipping or storage, due to its low viscosity.
Our regular Fluid Film will work better for the majority of applications. In bulk, the easiest way to apply the regular Fluid Film is by airless paint sprayer, with a psi of around 2,000 for best atomization.
Both products are safe on paint, plastic, and oil-resistant synthetic rubbers. The Gel that the Liquid A forms is unique to that product because of its designed use in a marine environment.
What are your desired applications?
Regards,
Dan Wxxxxxx
Technical Sales Manager
Eureka Chemical Company
234 Lawrence Ave.
South San Francisco, CA 94080
www.fluid-film.com
-----Original Message-----
From:
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 8:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Fluid film and Liquid A
Hello,
Can you please help me to understand the difference between fluid film and the liquid A? It seems that the liquid A has a penetrating capability that the standard fluid film does not. Is this due to a different chemical composition, or some other chemical difference?
Would one have a more damaging effect on rubber or plastic? Is one easier to spray?
Is the "gel" that liquid A forms different from the water interaction with standard fluid film?
Will either solve fully cured automotive type paint?
Thanks for your assistance!
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Thick rubberized undercoatings are about the worst thing you can do. They crack and hide rust until its really bad. They work good for about 5 years, and hide rust for the next 15.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
Agreed, I had a service station in NW Indiana (Gary) WAAAY back in the day. We used to spray our vehicles with used motor oil. Just an ordinary spray gun will suffice. Nothing high tech--it just works well. John--Las Vegas.
Thick rubberized undercoatings are about the worst thing you can do. They crack and hide rust until its really bad. They work good for about 5 years, and hide rust for the next 15.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
Agreed, I had a service station in NW Indiana (Gary) WAAAY back in the day. We used to spray our vehicles with used motor oil. Just an ordinary spray gun will suffice. Nothing high tech--it just works well. John--Las Vegas.
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Thick rubberized undercoatings are about the worst thing you can do. They crack and hide rust until its really bad. They work good for about 5 years, and hide rust for the next 15.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
I actually will agree with that BUT it is now illegal most places due to environmental concerns. Many family members used to get their vehicle "under-oiled" every year before winter set in and it worked very well.
Thick rubberized undercoatings are about the worst thing you can do. They crack and hide rust until its really bad. They work good for about 5 years, and hide rust for the next 15.
Best way to rust proof a car is to spray the undersides with thick oil.
I actually will agree with that BUT it is now illegal most places due to environmental concerns. Many family members used to get their vehicle "under-oiled" every year before winter set in and it worked very well.
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