"Will it run" CJ7 revival project - oil recommendations?

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Good evening BITOG world, I'm about to embark on a project to resurrect my brother in law's 1983 CJ7 Wrangler Laredo that has been parked for almost five years. Has been in the family for over 20 years and it's time to move it on to a new owner.

Parked in Phoenix, AZ so a good climate for prolonged storage, last drive was fall 2020. Since then it has been started periodically, last time about a year and a half ago. Not sure when the last oil change was.

Last time the Jeep was started, it emitted a lot of smoke (blue, I believe). 15X,XXX miles on the inline 6, possible PCV issue but more likely stuck or worn oil control rings.

Looking to get it running and driving in order to sell it. New battery will go in, and oil will be changed to 15w40 HDEO with a possible very short time flush depending on how the old oil comes out.

Old fuel will be siphoned from the tank and vacuum drawn out of the fuel line going to the carb.

Any recommendations on oils or oil additives to help remove deposits? I'm not interested in doing anything as aggressive as a piston soak, just a mild cleaning of the engine best we can before we send it on to its new owner.

Wrong section but if anyone has fuel system cleaner recommendations I'm all ears. Pic for attention:

 

[zrxkawboy]

No "mild cleaning" will help stuck rings in a short time. That said, I'd probably use Maxlife 10W40.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Yup, I figure it'll take a few hours and hundreds to thousands of miles to have an effect, if at all. Probably a problem for the future owner to tackle.

Would you recommend Maxlife over standard HDEO? Any specific reasons? Just curious. Thanks!

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

"standard" HDEO as in the cheapest on the Walmart shelf

 

[ripcord]

Oil choice would be near the bottom of my worries in this case. I would get it running first and after you get it warmed up, change with literally any 30 or 40 weight oil you have. If it keeps smoking after an Italian tuneup, maybe try a Berrymans B12 rebuild (piston soak). Do a search on the site for "B12 soak" for details.

The brakes are where you're likely to have to do the most work. Possibly new wheel cylinders and relube the sliding components and it would be prudent to examine or replace the brake hoses.

Finally, a really nice detail job will get you a better price than just about anything.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

That's my thought, throw any oil in the crankcase (I'm probably going to do it before starting, just because. Depending how it looks on the stick).

A bit concerned about the potential for carbon to break off and score the walls. Or a stuck plug. While I'm in there, I'd do a compression test and I might not like what I find. Basically it's a Schrodinger's cat of unknowns. If it fires up and runs well, which I fully expect it will, think I'll pass it on as a project to the next Jeep guy or gal.

It's in great shape with no rust so definitely worth a restoration for someone with time and interest.

Good point on the brakes. Will be looking into that for sure.

Appreciate the input on a detail job. Probably the best thing to boost the value of it in the short term.

 

[Egg_Head]

Is it smoking just at startup or all the time? Just drive the dang thing for a while and it will be fine.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

It was smoking at startup, reported by my brother in law. I haven't started or driven it in about five years. I agree, a good Italian tune-up is most definitely in order.

 

[BC1]

These storage posts always make me smile reading the responses. I was overseas for about 13 years total with a 3 year and a 5 year straight. Each time when I got back after charging and reconnecting the batteries I just fired them up. Drive it an hour and change the oil. 15w-40 is a solid choice for that motor in Phoenix.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

That's always been my experience, not really a big deal especially with low humidity in AZ. Thought about dropping a tablespoon of 2 stroke oil in the holes first but I don't think I'll worry about it.

If I was going to restore it myself, I'd probably scope the bores. But again, not my long-term project.

 

[Kira]

Thought about dropping a tablespoon of 2 stroke oil in the holes first

That's similar to a piston soak in terms of effort and involvement.

It sounds like you really do not want to even touch this vehicle. This isn't any judgementalism on my part, just an observation.

You'll never have the old, likely nasty, oil more "drained down".
Circumstances like this are why I used to keep a jug of my own drained oil handy.
If I drained roofing tar from a crankcase, my old oil was better than good enough for a "10 mile engine flush" and it'd cost zero.

Give the belts a squint too. If you test drive it, stay close to home and have a friend standing by with a rope.

I can hear BITOGers salivating over my laptops speakers.

 

[Chris142]

Once it gets running again the smoke should clear up unless there's a mechanical problem.

 

[Egg_Head]

I'd replace the fuel filter too. In my 1979 CJ-7 w/304 as the orginal fuel lines aged, the fuel filter would clog with black rubber as the fuel line deteroriated that ran from the firewall to the engine.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Good idea. Had that issue with the '77 F-100, kept clearing out black rubber from the clogged fuel line then realized it was completely rotten out.

I am thinking of gravity feeding from a temporary fuel tank while allowing the engine driven fuel pump to drain out the rest of the fuel into a bucket, thus purging all old gas out of the system.

Really depends how much work I want to do. It's set up to flat tow, so the other option is to fill it full of high test, tow it to the top of a hill, and roll start it to the bottom of the hill. It'll start, or it wont.

 

[addyguy]

Why on earth would you get rid of that classic?? Do you know how rare a rust-free CJ Laredo is?
If you change your mind, you’ll never find another!

 

[ripcord]

Why on earth would you get rid of that classic?? Do you know how rare a rust-free CJ Laredo is?
If you change your mind, you’ll never find another!

They're not that rare in Phoenix, Arizona where pretty much nothing is rusted out. Sun baked and faded on the other hand...

 

[Egg_Head]

Good idea. Had that issue with the '77 F-100, kept clearing out black rubber from the clogged fuel line then realized it was completely rotten out.

I am thinking of gravity feeding from a temporary fuel tank while allowing the engine driven fuel pump to drain out the rest of the fuel into a bucket, thus purging all old gas out of the system.

Really depends how much work I want to do. It's set up to flat tow, so the other option is to fill it full of high test, tow it to the top of a hill, and roll start it to the bottom of the hill. It'll start, or it wont.

Changing the fuel lines from the firewall to the motor is easy. I recall the return line may have been smaller. Depends how deep you want to get. Prospective buyers will smile when they open the hood and see new fuel lines and a shiny fuel filter..

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Why on earth would you get rid of that classic?? Do you know how rare a rust-free CJ Laredo is?
If you change your mind, you’ll never find another!

Trust me, I've wrestled with this for the past 15 years. I already have the JKU, and the classic vehicle spot in my garage is taken by the '77 F-100. This CJ would need paint and possibly an engine rebuild so figure 10 to 20k to do the restoration right, given that I do not have engine rebuild or painting skills, nor do I desire to learn them.

It's hard to let this one go. That's how I've justified it in my mind, anyway.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

They're not that rare in Phoenix, Arizona where pretty much nothing is rusted out. Sun baked and faded on the other hand...

This is definitely one of those sun baked and faded ones. Will see how common they are when it's time to list. Survivors on the east coast go for 10 to 15k, not sure what the desert market is like.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Changing the fuel lines from the firewall to the motor is easy. I recall the return line may have been smaller. Depends how deep you want to get. Prospective buyers will smile when they open the hood and see new fuel lines and a shiny fuel filter..

Good point! You're right, not that hard.