Will GM 3400 V-6 handle 5W-20 oil?

[Tucson Five-O]

New to this forum, although I have been an avid reader for 4+ years.

Have a 2002 Olds Alero with the dreaded 3400 V-6.

As my logon states, live in hot Tucson. Engine has about 36,000 on it (2nd engine) and have ran Pennzoil 5W-30 in it and use the OLM religiously for change intervals. 50%City/50%Highway.

Would like to try 5W-20 in it. Engine does not seem to use any oil and is thus far free of the GM piston knock. Am considering the following oils:

1. Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend
2. Havoline 5w-20 syn (assume it's GroupIII)
3. Mobil 1 5w-20
4. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20.

I see that Pennzoil usually shears to a 20wt. anyway, so I thought I would give one of the above oils a try for the normal 5500-6000 mile drain interval. Any thoughts or comments?

 

[bighead]

I have a 2004 Grand Am with the same engine, and I've been wondering the same thing. But, I'm too chicken to try it out lol...

I plan on just stickin to 5w-30, due to the fact that, as you said, they might shear down plus it's what's GM specs.

 

[pitzel]

Doubt it would be much of a problem. But if you can get a UOA, that should put both your mind at ease, as well as give us some nice data on the site, to help determine the suitability of 5W-20 in these engines.

Thick 0W-30's work great in these engines as well, for instance, Esso XD-3 0W-30, GC, etc.

 

[bighead]

quote:

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Originally posted by pitzel:
Thick 0W-30's work great in these engines as well, for instance, Esso XD-3 0W-30, GC, etc.

---

Agreed. I ran (2) ~7K OCI's with GC and it ran smoooooth as butter

 

[Gary Allan]

If you've used 5w-30 dino in the past ...then you've most likely been running 20 weight already. You just didn't know it. The 5w-20 oils are very shear stable. I would only worry (and I wouldn't worry too much) about fuel dilution. I would have full confidence in using 5w-20 oils in just about anything that spec'd 5w-30 ..infact, I do for the most part. No sense using any heavier then you need to.

If you're reluctant, just do a UOA. One OCI of the length you most likely do (statistical SWAG -3-5k) will not destroy your engine. This will confirm whether it was a wise choice or not.

 

[Al]

Gary is right. Personally though I would like to have some confidence in how the vehicle is doing in terms of antifreeze . If you have not had the intake gasket replaced on that 3.4 there is 100% chance that it is leaking. So the first thing you should do with that vehicle is get an oil analysis to confirm the integrity of the engine. The other worrisom thing on that engine is the piston slap. Not sure how the 20wt oil will affect that.

Once you know that the engine is mechanically solid and know what your wear metals are, go for it.

I have a pretty good history on my 01 Nisssan Sentra and next time I plan on doing a 50/50 mix with 20 and 30 wt. I'll go from there.

 

[Tucson Five-O]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

I think I will get a UOA. Previous engine starting leaking at around 30k, but until I learned about the 3100/3400 LIM gasket problem on this site, dealer kept saying nothing could be done. It destroyed the last engine at 52,000 miles.

I'll probably use the Motorcraft 5w-20 and keep the standard drain interval. No reason to use the Havoline, Pennzoil or Mobil syns unless I change to an extended drain interval if everything works out in the future

 

[bighead]

Exactly how long should I wait to check that intake gasket? Is it something that, while doomed to fail eventually, might have already failed? I checked the coolant level and all is good, but, honestly I'm starting to worry lol.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I would not try it but I would love to see the results. If you do it make sure to do a UOA so we can see how it did.

 

[ScottB]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
I would not try it but I would love to see the results. If you do it make sure to do a UOA so we can see how it did.

---

*TRANSLATION:

Go ahead, hose YOUR can and let us know how it goes!

Scott

 

[Drew99GT]

LOL!! I wouldn't do it! Tuscon Arizona in the summer; 5w-20 in an engine not speced for it?

These engines run quite hot as well in the summer with coolent temps getting well above 210-215. I'd bet oil temps follow.

I'd run 5w-20 in your Alero in a heart beat if you lived in North Dakota and it was winter!

 

[mshu7]

quote:

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Originally posted by bighead:

quote:

---

Originally posted by pitzel:
Thick 0W-30's work great in these engines as well, for instance, Esso XD-3 0W-30, GC, etc.

---

Agreed. I ran (2) ~7K OCI's with GC and it ran smoooooth as butter

---

I'm on my first (of about 8) 10K runs on GREEN GC 0w30 in my '00 Grand Am GT V6 with 106K miles. The car runs better than ever.

I wouldn't even think to put a 20 weight oil in this engine. The possible savings in gas just don't outway the possible downsides to using a thinner-than-suggested weight of oil.

I stick with 5w20 in my '05 Mazda3 2.3L I4.

[ June 06, 2006, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: mshu7 ]

 

[LARKBILL]

2002 probably does not have the gasket with the aluminum "buttons". I would:

If you still have extended warranty-tell dealer you are losing coolant, haven't seen any leaks. The techs consider this a good ticket even at warranty times. They'll just replace it.

If not still covered and you are handy, consider doing it yourself, I did my son's girlfriend's Alero (first time I did one) in about 4 hours. Parts aren't all that expensive. If you don't want to tackle it, shop the independant shops for a deal before it goes critical.

Why experiment with non recommended oil, do you really think the mileage will improve that much? Not likely, they get over 30 mpg. on the highway as is. Plenty of good deals on recommended oils.

 

[thooks]

What happened to the first engine?

 

[Tucson Five-O]

thooks,

Remember the Porsche 928 in the Tom Cruise movie "Risky Business"? Well, my girlfriend was the "U2 pilot"!

Massive water ingestion during a violent summer thunderstorm (air intake is located by the fog lights on that car about a foot off the roadway). Changed the oil, but alas, some water removed and about a week later, it threw a rod through the cast oil pan and that was that

And in conclusion after reading all the posts, I have decided against using the 5w-20 oils. I will be using the Mobil 1 5w-30 EP along with the Napa Gold/Carquest Blue, Wix equivalent to the larger AC Delco PF-52 oil filter, and do UOA's each time the OLM says to change it.

 

[bighead]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Tucson Five-O:
thooks,

Remember the Porsche 928 in the Tom Cruise movie "Risky Business"? Well, my girlfriend was the "U2 pilot"!

Massive water ingestion during a violent summer thunderstorm (air intake is located by the fog lights on that car about a foot off the roadway). Changed the oil, but alas, some water removed and about a week later, it threw a rod through the cast oil pan and that was that

And in conclusion after reading all the posts, I have decided against using the 5w-20 oils. I will be using the Mobil 1 5w-30 EP along with the Napa Gold/Carquest Blue, Wix equivalent to the larger AC Delco PF-52 oil filter, and do UOA's each time the OLM says to change it.

---

Sorry to hear about your car

My OLM came on around 7K the 2 times I let it go that far (using GC). I'm running dino now, and don't feel comfy running dino that long...

If your OLM comes on around that same time, then if you change it per the OLM, you can get away with using regular M1 and save a few bucks over the EP. OR, you could just reset the OLM and keep going till it comes on again...

 

[Tucson Five-O]

Changed the oil in the 3400 V-6 Alero today.

Decided against the MC 5W-20 syn blend, especially considering it's summer in Tucson (105+).

Was torn between using Havoline 5w-30 dino, Mobil 1 5w-30 EP, or PP 5w-30. Went with the PP.

Will do a UOA when the OLM says so, but will leave the oil in (at least until the results come back). My thinking is if the PP can handle two OLM intervals (about 11k), it will pay for itself (Walmart 18.97/5qt. jug vs. 9.97/5qt. jug for Pennzoil dino).

Then I will try Mobil 1 EP, and try to do three OLM intervals with a UOA after each one. Cost wise it needs to make it three times to justify the 27.52/5qt. jug cost at Walmart.

I doubt that using the best dinos, Havoline, MC syn blend, or TA, against the good-very good synthetics readily available (PP & Mobil 1 EP) and varying the drain intervals will make that much difference in engine cleanliness and protection at the point each respective oil has its additive package depleted.

Will keep BITOG posted with results.

Note: used the Carquest Premium oil filter equivalent to the larger AC PF-52. I'm not sure if this filter can handle 15K+, but we'll find out!

 

[ekpolk]

IMO, good call. The whole 5w-20 thing is certainly interesting to observe, but if your hardware isn't made for it, why mess with it?

And if you're feeling cheated out of a chance to "do some science" on your engine -- well, don't! Follow up on the leaking gasket monster that's probably lurking in the shadows of your engine compartment. Do a UOA and go from there.