Will a 20w60 burn less oil than a 20w50

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FCD

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So last september i switched from Mobil 2000 10w40 syn-blend to Shell HX3 20w50 conventional , i've found a Uk supplier of Penrite Classic Light HPR 30 20w60, would this further reduce oil burning if the valve seals are the problem? i'll changing them eventually but i have found that it is easier to do with the heads off and that is already a major job that i won't have time for until the winter, at the same time i'll check on the lifters too to see if they are alright since my engine sounds pretty rattly, i will get the rockers resurfaced too and fix some rust issues with the car too .
Americans don't panic the coldest temps we see here are of about 30 F , last winter the coldest temp was -2c
 
May be may be not ,You have to give it a try. The 20w part seems to make me think.
 
Why do you even ask? You aren't open to other people's opinions anyways. You already know what's best apparently. You'll just end up using what you want regardless.

Sorry to burst your bubble

Try this instead:

55oqb.jpg
 
Density at 15°C, kg/L 0.884
Viscosity, Kinematic, cSt
at 40°C
at 100°C
229
24.2
Viscosity Index 132
Cold Cranking Viscosity, cP at -15°C 8206
Zinc, Mass % 0.157
CA, Mass % 0.315
Phosphorus, Mass % 0.145
Sulphated Ash, mass % 1.29
Base Number 9.7
 
No. It's weird I know but in oil terms, 'thicker' doesn't necessarily equal less volatile. All things being equal, a 20W50 is less volatile than a 20W60

Can I advise that you NEVER EVER use Molasses in your engine. Golden syrup however with the proper VII polymer and a decent DI pack (formulated by yours truly) with 100,000,000,000 ppm of ZZZDDDDDPPPPP (advanced formula) would be fine....
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
No. It's weird I know but in oil terms, 'thicker' doesn't necessarily equal less volatile. All things being equal, a 20W50 is less volatile than a 20W60

Can I advise that you NEVER EVER use Molasses in your engine. Golden syrup however with the proper VII polymer and a decent DI pack (formulated by yours truly) with 100,000,000,000 ppm of ZZZDDDDDPPPPP (advanced formula) would be fine....

LMAO
 
Another choice no matter how unpopular is to fix the mechanical problems. Or, move on to the next vehicle. Why keep a vehicle when it becomes so last year.
 
Depends which shears more and the Noack. Depends on the quality and quantity of their VII and base oil, basically.
 
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Just take the oil pan off, thread Zerk fittings into every rod and crank bearing, and stop for a grease job every 10 miles. That'll stop the oil burning, and the bits of grease that fling off will take care of the piston rings.

Now seriously:
At some point, thicker and thicker oil is just going to starve parts for adequate flow and cooling, as well as generate more heat through shearing of the fluid itself. I'd rather burn some oil than do that.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
SAE 70?? That stuff is like water !


It's not just any sae 70 it's sae 70 PLUS!


BTW if anyone is curious the Lucas sae 70 plus data sheet shows KV100 @ 30 cSt and over 5400 ppm zddp (just says zinc on data sheet though)

Zinc by weight is 0.28%!
 
The Lucas will fall into the upper range of SAE 140 gear oil very close to SAE 190 which is anything over 32.5 cSt @100ºC, but less than 41

The next thickest is sae 250 which is 41+ cSt @100ºC. That's as high as SAE J303 goes
 
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