Wife's CR-V needs struts.

[crashz]

I was in a similar boat a few years ago with my CRV. I went with KYB quick struts in the front and El Cheapo in the back. Replaced all bushings in the front, rear wheel bearing, and the ball joints/tie rod ends in the "while I'm in here" mood.
This led to my terrible Moog experience.

The KYBs were built well, but were stiff! Same with the cheap rears. In fact the ride height changed because they wouldn't compress as much. Loaded up, it handled well.

I don't think the KYBs are a bad choice, but be aware of the quick strut ride.

 

[D60]

I was in a similar boat a few years ago with my CRV. I went with KYB quick struts in the front and El Cheapo in the back. Replaced all bushings in the front, rear wheel bearing, and the ball joints/tie rod ends in the "while I'm in here" mood.
This led to my terrible Moog experience.

The KYBs were built well, but were stiff! Same with the cheap rears. In fact the ride height changed because they wouldn't compress as much. Loaded up, it handled well.

I don't think the KYBs are a bad choice, but be aware of the quick strut ride.

Yeah this is why I avoid quick struts unless it seems the existing springs are tired/sagging. Always afraid I'm gonna return a vehicle with a mild lift

That said, some manufacturers (like Moog) will warn you it may sit higher at first but assure you it will settle. AFAIC, maybe -- maybe not.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Mando's are Hyundai's and Kia's OEM brand. They're decent. But for a 13' CRV, that is barely driven anymore, why spend the $$$$$$.... Unless you have money to burn, get em. I would just get some " El Cheapo's " Quik Struts, that come with sway bar links as a freebie, and chuck those in. Quik Struts are sooooooo easy to install. The hardest part is catching a strut bearing nut, while you're holding up the stupid thing, ( as you're back is screaming) You don't even need to get a wheel alignment after installation. Oh, the other hardest part is the old swaybar link. Don't bother with the allen key. Get the " blue wrench" , vice grips, impact gun ....If that fails, and it has on me already, the sawzall. Don't be stupid like me and nick up the swaybar by accident .........GO EL CHEAPO !!!!! YAY

 

[troymcclure]

This is what they say on their website. I'm not sure whether it's a feature or a bug:

HL Mando are a good manufacturer but given how low they price their quick struts, I’m skeptical of how good they must be. They may be capable of making great struts but their quick struts are obviously built to a price point.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

HUH ??? Built to a price point ??? What's that's supposed to mean ? Either you build them good or decent. Period. Personally, I don't put much faith in them anyway. I mean, they are OEM Hyundai and Kia. Not the best cars made in the world. I'm sure you'd get 5yrs/ 50k out of them, depending on road conditions. I would not use them as replacements if I planned on keeping a car longer. Honda is no better. Had a 13' Pilot. Bought it new. RR shock leaking like somebody shot it with a 38 pistol. 1k only. Front strut bearings died at 80K. So much for OEM. Ridiculous.

 

[nthach]

@D60 - You mentioned the Mando brand. They are relatively low-priced on RockAuto, but never heard of them before. Are they more known as a manufacturer of OEM shocks and struts?

Mando is a long time OEM to the Koreans. They started out making alternators/starters for Hyundai under Mitsubishi Electric license. They now supply brakes for GM. Visteon’s former climate control division was bought out by Mando and called Hanon Climate - Ford, HyunKia, GM Korea and Tesla use them as OE.

You might have seen Kefico under the hood of a Hyundai or Kia. They too were bootstrapped by Mitsubishi. Now a part of the Hyundai chaebol besides Hyundai Wia/Mobis and the other companies in that universe.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

OMG !!!! We really have no idea what in the world we are buying anymore.

 

[JHZR2]

Rock Auto has Bilstein B4 struts for $84. If you want the best, go get it.
They don't carry rear shocks, but I have checked, and Bisltein makes them and Tire Rack carries them for $79 a piece.

I was going to say… what’s the price delta between OEM, Bilstein, and some of the better models of standard brands like Monroe or Gabriel?

 

[edyvw]

I was going to say… what’s the price delta between OEM, Bilstein, and some of the better models of standard brands like Monroe or Gabriel?

Not much. Can’t remember when I checked for his CR-V, but $20 maybe Bilstein more expensive than Gabriel or Monroe.
That is B4.
B6 is not available for CR-V. IMO, if keeping vehicle, and like bit stiffer (not stiff) handling, B6 is worth every penny.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

We still playin strut merry-go-round with this CRV ???? The CRV sees light use. Has over 200k on it. That means to me it's almost out to pasture. Is the owner going to install ????? If so, go " EL CHEAPO". If the owner is going to take it to a shop and get smashed over the head in labor costs, Go with the best his wallet will allow, this way he doesn't lose the labor costs in case the " EL CHEAPOS" crap out on him. Can't make it much more simpler than that. In that case, I would go with the KYB Quik Strut.

 

[Starving Electrician]

We still playin strut merry-go-round with this CRV ???? The CRV sees light use. Has over 200k on it. That means to me it's almost out to pasture. Is the owner going to install ????? If so, go " EL CHEAPO". If the owner is going to take it to a shop and get smashed over the head in labor costs, Go with the best his wallet will allow, this way he doesn't lose the labor costs in case the " EL CHEAPOS" crap out on him. Can't make it much more simpler than that. In that case, I would go with the KYB Quik Strut.

First the vehicle is probably just around half way through its service life. 200K isnt even close to out to pasture. A rust free vehicle with zero issues cosmeticaly or mechanically isn't worn out or almost done. Its odd to me how people think 200K is a lot of miles. My Civic Si which is my daily has 310K on it. Also who on this site would take a vehicle in for a strut job?

Yes use case is important because it will be probably 8 years for me to put 50K on the vehicle so I wasn't worried about the longest life because if they get me that long then great.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I disagree. There are handicapped people on this forum who cannot do the work themselves. There are also people who never did strut jobs, or have impact guns, and the rest of the toys. Can't lump all of BITOG people into one category. Some are too old now to do the work, or have back problems, etc. Some are too young and don't have the resources to do all this crazy stuff done on BITOG. Some don't have lifts, just floor jacks and stands, etc. You get my point here

 

[D60]

Also who on this site would take a vehicle in for a strut job?

I used to think this but through careful observation I've determined it's typical internet, man. Less than 10% of posters are the real deal and ~90% are just catfishing.

If this hurts anyone's feelz I'm happy to be lumped into the latter 90%, but it doesn't change the facts.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I speak for myself here. I have 2 tool chests. 8 different size floor jacks. 8 jack stands. 1 - 1/2" drive electric impact gun. 1- 1/2" drive torque wrench. Tools vary from 1/4" sockets to 1/2" sockets. The usual open end/ box wrench metric and Inches sizes. A sawzall and a blue wrench, breaker bars, screwdrivers,etc,,,, stickers all over the tool chests. All collected since 1975-76. A lot were hand me downs from my dad. That's the extent of what I can do. I use the garage that the house came with. No lift, no pit.

 

[chris719]

I know you don't want to hear this but only after market alternative that is decent are Bilstein shocks and struts, and they cost more then OEM.

I have tried most of the after market alternatives, and they definitely fail prematurely, if you are going to do all that labor, do it once.

Koni also, especially Red (Special Active). Other than Koni or Bilstein everything else is trash IMO other than genuine. Sachs is ok if they make an application for your car I guess.

 

[chris719]

Please. The reason that new struts don’t go the same distance as factory is that they go onto old, worn out cars. It’s just logical that a 150,000 mile car is going to stress the struts more. We are several years out from the pandemic, and there is no logic to the idea that the world has lost the playbook on building struts. I mean, we still have good tie rod ends and control arms, right? You don’t replace struts every day, but when the time comes, I will be going with KYBs as I have in the past on Hondas. In the parts world, I have found NAPA to be excellent in sourcing decent quality parts. They don’t have snob appeal, but they get the job done. In fact, my Acura/Honda specialist mechanic will install NAPA struts, unless you ask specifically for something else.

Sorry, my Mazda 3 OE struts lasted 50k only (leaking) and the KYBs didn't even make 35k before they were shot... but the Koni SA I put on after that has done more and still feels better than either did brand new. The car damps and takes potholes better with 140k than it did when new.