why use synthetic when Dino is so good

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Originally Posted By: ram_man
I'm trying to understand the benefits. My focus seems to use a small amount of Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Where it never used any Conventional oil but besides that if an engine can go 300k + on Conventional oil changed between 5,000-10,000 what makes synthetic any better? Ford says 10,000 intervals are acceptable on any oil meeting gf5 so in stating that what makes synthetic better for the average people? I understand it used to be able to go longer and last longer but is that really true anymore? And if it is can it go enough longer to justify the costs? Just me pondering things. As always pictures of engines and how clean or dirty they are is always cool.


Well maybe Ford says that but not every manufacturer does.

My reasons? Well the 1MZ-FE in my old Sienna has a well know reason, I'd be looking at short intervals on conventional oil that would be a lot of hassle. And my BMW and Honda are driven by my daughters, both at school, and I don't always know when I will see the car next. So I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance and shoot for a 10,000-12,000 mile OCI, but if I don't make it because I don't see the car at that mileage it's no big deal. As for the Echo, considering the narrow price differential between conventional and synthetic I really don't see a reason to use anything else.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Ford says 10,000 intervals are acceptable on any oil meeting gf5 so in stating that what makes synthetic better for the average people?

Just as soon as they start making mineral oil that meets VW 502.00, BMW LL-01, and MB 229.5 spec, I'll certainly consider it.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just as soon as they start making mineral oil that meets VW 502.00, BMW LL-01, and MB 229.5 spec, I'll certainly consider it.


You will? Really? How long?
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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just as soon as they start making mineral oil that meets VW 502.00, BMW LL-01, and MB 229.5 spec, I'll certainly consider it.


You will? Really? How long?
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I put on 2K miles a year and change the oil once a year. Surely some mineral oil would be up to the task.
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Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: cb_13
The minimum requirements for the 3.5 Ecoboost is WSS-MC2946-A. Which is met by Pennzoil Conventional 5w30.


^ this. While if I had one I would use synthetic just as I do in my "lowish" tech 5.3L.

The turbos in the 3.5L ecoboost are water cooled with the cooling system and not near as oil demanding as many turbo applications. Turbo engines generally have small lift cams, bullet proof internals and lower compression. The ecoboost gets a bad rap from people who just don't understand that the engine is well designed.

Pennzoil Conventional meets the spec and given a 5k interval would do a fine job. The problem with the internet is you only hear of the possible issues or issues that affect a small % of vehicles. The other 99% live trouble free and are probably getting their oil changed at tire shops and quick lubes and still running perfectly fine.

I don't think we will ever see sludged up ecoboost engines as a major issue. Oils today are so good the worries are just overthinking. I would buy a 50k mile ecoboost that had 5k mile OCI's on Pennzoil Conventional its whole life and not think twice. I would bet money it would be clean inside as well.

I would be hard for anyone to convince me the basestocks used in MC 5w30 syn-blend are that much better than a premium conventional like Pennzoil Conventional or Mobil Super 5000

I would change the coolant more often on and ecoboost than a normal car, as the added strain from cooling the turbos would likely degrade the coolant faster than say my 5.3 GM


100%
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Ford says 10,000 intervals are acceptable on any oil meeting gf5 so in stating that what makes synthetic better for the average people?

Just as soon as they start making mineral oil that meets VW 502.00, BMW LL-01, and MB 229.5 spec, I'll certainly consider it.


Yeah, this will happen. Mineral oils can't even meet basic A3/B4 requirements.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
How about using whatever you want and not seek out the approval of total strangers on an internet forum?


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If you guys were going to switch to a conventional oil which would it be ? Which does best di engines? And if you were going to stay with synthetic and not do Mobil products what would be on your short list? Any oil these focuses seem to prefer?
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
If you guys were going to switch to a conventional oil which would it be ?


Something from ConocoPhillips or Chevron. 10w30!
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
If you guys were going to switch to a conventional oil which would it be ? Which does best di engines? And if you were going to stay with synthetic and not do Mobil products what would be on your short list? Any oil these focuses seem to prefer?


Conventional would be Mobil Super 5000 or Chevron Supreme, I've used both in the past when I still used conventional (2008 or so) and both were quality. VOA's show a strong TBN and a lower than average (for conventional) Volitilty %.

But I'm not going to use conventional in my newer vehicles. And in older vehicles I would use an HD oil like Rotella Triple T or Delo 400 LE.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Mineral oils can't even meet basic A3/B4 requirements.


http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/Fusion...BPXE-9FFQ4L.pdf




Great find, QP.
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Granted, we don't get this oil in the US, but the basic ACEA A3/A4 spec isn't overly hard to meet.


This isn't the same 10W40 GTX we have here?
 
There are 5 dollar a bottle vodka brands and 50 dollar a bottle vodka brands. Both get you drunk. Choice is yours based on your preferences and constraints.
 
Simple list, which may or may not apply to you:

1. Cold weather starts: 0w-20 starts easily at -35F to -40F. If you live in the far north that is a concern. 5w20 conventional does not.
2. Less wear at cold startups & less sludge at at high temperatures.
3. About the same price. Mobil 1 Extended Performance currently costs $15 for a 5Q jug after rebate. Dino is about the same. SOPUS runs similar specials with gasoline discounts. Stores like Meijer offer them occasionally too via $10 off $25 coupons.
4. Longer OCI. We change our out of warranty vehicles every 12-15K. It's cheaper and better for the environment.
5. If you go over the mileage by 1 or 2K you are still within your safety margin with many synthetics.
6. Required if 0w-20 is spec'd.

If you are in warranty, and change every 10K per Ford, MC Semi-Syn is an excellent choice. We use it along with a MC filter for our Ford vehicles because it works well and is cheap. Our local Ford store sells MC semi-syn, MC filter, and rotation is $30. For $30 we take it to the dealer every time. That's about the same price as buying your own parts.

Our Subaru store charges $85, Honda charges $75 and require/recommend synthetics. At those prices it's much cheaper to buy your own oil and filter.
 
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I've used synthetic oils almost exclusively since M1 was introduced in the mid 70s. I currently drive a 2008 Jeep Wrangler and have used synthetic in it since new. It's at 80,000 miles. I don't do extended oil changes so last change I decided to try Pennzoil Conventional 5w30. I changed the oil at 4,500 miles and sent a sample to Blackstone. Imagine my surprise when Pennzoil Conventional gave me the best wear numbers ever for this engine. Better than Mobil 1 Truck and SUV or PP. I'm very impressed and will stick with Pennzoil Conventional in this engine.
 
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