Why not just run a Euro oil?

Have you ever seen the average European vehicle in Europe? You might be surprised with mileage and the afterlife. Many of those cars end up in some African scrap yard after 30 years or so.
Average age of car on road in Germany: 10 yrs
Average age of car on road in UK: 10.3 yrs
US 12.5 years

Also because the US is larger in land area and has much lower fuel costs due to taxation differences, the average mileage per year accumulated is much higher (US 13,500, Germany 8500, UK 7400)
 
I just switched all 3 of our cars to Castrol Euro 5W40 (API SP). It works well in all three (2018 CRV, 2013 S80, 2003 Civic) and really opens the doors for saving money on oil. Just think, if I ever need to top off, no need to buy a quart of a different oil. I will always have a leftover 5qt jug hanging around that could either be used for top off any vehicle, or contribute to the next oil change for any vehicle. And I think I'll use it in my push mower too. Why not?
 
No drawbacks in my eyes for my cars thus using Euro oil in both, converted a few of my friends to do same in some of their cars.
I actually see benefits of better (at least claimed) wear, sludge, deposits, oil compatibility (in case of top ups) and fuel economy with my Euro oil choice vs PPPP.
 
Average age of car on road in Germany: 10 yrs
Average age of car on road in UK: 10.3 yrs
US 12.5 years

Also because the US is larger in land area and has much lower fuel costs due to taxation differences, the average mileage per year accumulated is much higher (US 13,500, Germany 8500, UK 7400)
The US cars spend most of their life on open roads.
Also, I don't know if you noticed, but Europe has far more countries than those three. The EU average is 12yrs, and not all European countries are EU members. If you calculate non-members, you will get older vehicles than in the US. For example, for Russia is 14yrs, Serbia is 17.5yrs.
Also, you are taking the wrong vehicles as an example. There is a reason why only one European manufacturer went bankrupt in 2008; it was in the ownership of GM. And it did not bankrupt bcs. products were superior.
 
I just switched all 3 of our cars to Castrol Euro 5W40 (API SP). It works well in all three (2018 CRV, 2013 S80, 2003 Civic) and really opens the doors for saving money on oil. Just think, if I ever need to top off, no need to buy a quart of a different oil. I will always have a leftover 5qt jug hanging around that could either be used for top off any vehicle, or contribute to the next oil change for any vehicle. And I think I'll use it in my push mower too. Why not?
Got to say I’m considering doing the same. My wife’s Mercedes takes the 0W40 Mobil1 FS, I’m thinking about honestly switching my Toyota to it (even though the 0W20 is “recommended). I’ve been running 5W30 in my Toyota for the past two years or so with good results…my next run is with the PUP 5W30, but I’m really tempted to just dump the 0W40 in it.
 
Can low tension oil rings handle thicker Euro spec oil?

I was watching Scott Kilmer and he said increasing viscosity will cause new engines to burn oil.

The low tension rings cannot scrape the Euro oil?
My 1987 BMW 325i was a purpose built engine for fuel economy with low tension piston rings and called for a 40 grade oil.

Please don't take advice from Scotty or Project Farm. They are click bait YouTube sites.
 
Maybe Euros drive in a bipolar manner that can kill a car faster? Either it's stuck in a cramped city or for the Germans, they're speeding in Mercs and Bimmers on the Autobahn at high speeds.
 
Europeans do like them thick for sure.


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Got to say I’m considering doing the same. My wife’s Mercedes takes the 0W40 Mobil1 FS, I’m thinking about honestly switching my Toyota to it (even though the 0W20 is “recommended). I’ve been running 5W30 in my Toyota for the past two years or so with good results…my next run is with the PUP 5W30, but I’m really tempted to just dump the 0W40 in it.
No risk in trying it. You will be surprised how well it works.
Zero downside.
 
More soot / carbon cleaning over time, with the non SP /SNPlus Euros. Not the best for timing chains also, which gather carbon more easily..
So choose SP whenever possible with gas engines, when dealing with TGDI / GDI engines.
If I see SL or SN on the jug label, I put it back on the shelf.

Walmart is a good source for my #1 Mobil-1 Euro oils. My 2nd Place at Wally belongs to Castrol Edge Euro.
Haven't had good luck with Pennzoil or Quaker State products these past few years. It's either consumption or engine noise to blame.
 
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My guess is that European made oils that are "Syn" are required to be Group IV or V. At least it used to be that way
 
My guess is that European made oils that are "Syn" are required to be Group IV or V. At least it used to be that way
No, only to be labeled fully synthetic in Germany. Most oils simply do not carry the vollsynthetisch label now.
 
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