Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 OR Mobil 1 Euro FS 0W40?

[MR 22]

Good Morning! I have yet to try VRP, but I have tried M1 Euro FS in the recent past.
What I wonder is, out of these two, which do you feel would be an overall better choice?
I'm curious because while I'm sure VRP is a great oil, it does not have all of the certifications that M1 Euro FS has. (MB 229.5, Porsche A40, etc.)
I want to be clear that I'm not throwing shade at either oil or brand, nor am I trying to start a motor oil feud. Just curious as to everyone's thoughts or preferences of these two oils. Thanks in advance.

 

[kschachn]

Good Morning! I have yet to try VRP, but I have tried M1 Euro FS in the recent past.
What I wonder is, out of these two, which do you feel would be an overall better choice?
I'm curious because while I'm sure VRP is a great oil, it does not have all of the certifications that M1 Euro FS has. (MB 229.5, Porsche A40, etc.)
I want to be clear that I'm not throwing shade at either oil or brand, nor am I trying to start a motor oil feud. Just curious as to everyone's thoughts or preferences of these two oils. Thanks in advance.

Seems like you’ve already answered your own question.

 

[buster]

Two very different oils with different specs. What does your car call for?

 

[MR 22]

Two very different oils with different specs. What does your car call for?

My car is a 2016 KIA Forte w/ the 1.8 Litre MPI; the owner's manual accepts 5W20, 5W30 or 10W30.
My OCI is short (5,000 mi. or less) as my driving falls under "severe".
I have tried M1 Euro FS 0W40 once before; I'm currently running Castrol Edge Euro Car 5W40 this OCI.
It can get extremely hot where I live during the Summer (110°F+).

 

[Glenda W.]

IMO there is only one reason to use R&P and that is to clean dirty pistons/rings causing oil consumption. Nothing else is really special about R&P.

 

[buster]

IMO there is only one reason to use R&P and that is to clean dirty pistons/rings causing oil consumption. Nothing else is really special about R&P.

True but it may also be good at keeping carbon at bay more so than other oils. If it can clean pistons to factory levels, then I'd guess that for short OCI's it would keep engine/rings in great shape.

 

[Glenda W.]

True but it may also be good at keeping carbon at bay more so than other oils. If it can clean pistons to factory levels, then I'd guess that for short OCI's it would keep engine/rings in great shape.

Good point. If a certain engine is a known oil burner no reason not to run it indefinitely.

I’m actually going to try a reverse experiment after my final R&P run to see if one of my favorite oils will keep pistons clean!

 

[edyvw]

My car is a 2016 KIA Forte w/ the 1.8 Litre MPI; the owner's manual accepts 5W20, 5W30 or 10W30.
My OCI is short (5,000 mi. or less) as my driving falls under "severe".
I have tried M1 Euro FS 0W40 once before; I'm currently running Castrol Edge Euro Car 5W40 this OCI.
It can get extremely hot where I live during the Summer (110°F+).

Use M1 0W40.
Also, the ambient temperature only matters if your cooling system cannot keep the internal temperature in check. Oil does not know what the temperature is outside. Thicker oil also means more resistance=more heat. In that engine, calling for ILSAC oils, I would use Mobil1 ESP 0W30.

 

[Patman]

Use M1 0W40.
Also, the ambient temperature only matters if your cooling system cannot keep the internal temperature in check. Oil does not know what the temperature is outside.

The oil in my Corvette does. When I take it out for a long highway run in the winter (60+ miles), let’s say it’s 25F, my oil temperature is around 180F, and the coolant is around 175F. If I take that same long highway run in the summer in 85 degree weather, my coolant is about 195 and the oil temperature is about 205F. I don’t have an oil cooler.

 

[Hohn]

IMO there is only one reason to use R&P and that is to clean dirty pistons/rings causing oil consumption. Nothing else is really special about R&P.

The UOAs look pretty impressive even compared to HPL and c30-approved oils.

I think the fact that it cleans so well is causing people to overlook that the wear metal results by UOA are seemingly as good as any and better than most.

I’m using VRP now and considering what to run after the cleaning is mostly done. Looking over the UOAs I’m asking myself why I should switch. What oil is giving demonstrable better wear metal results in UOA?

I’m willing to spend whatever it takes to get what I feel is the best oil. But I can’t see evidence that another oil will appreciably lower wear metal results.

Convince me I’m getting better wear protection by moving on from VRP. Especially as someone not keen on pushing OCIs.

 

[edyvw]

The oil in my Corvette does. When I take it out for a long highway run in the winter (60+ miles), let’s say it’s 25F, my oil temperature is around 180F, and the coolant is around 175F. If I take that same long highway run in the summer in 85 degree weather, my coolant is about 195 and the oil temperature is about 205F. I don’t have an oil cooler.

Those are not extreme numbers by any means. That means the cooling system is doing what it was designed to do. 205f oil temperature is peanuts.

 

[buster]

If looking at UOA wear metals, VRP has shown to control wear very well so far.

Things VRP is not: long drain full SAPS oil. If your car doesn't require a Euro spec, I'd opt for VRP.

 

[Shel_B]

Good point. If a certain engine is a known oil burner no reason not to run it indefinitely.

I’m actually going to try a reverse experiment after my final R&P run to see if one of my favorite oils will keep pistons clean!

@Glenda W. Which oil are you referencing? Is it one that has a reputation for cleaning?

 

[edyvw]

Let's remind ourselves that UOA is an analysis of used oil, not an engine. Unless there is a dramatic spike in wear metals, which might indicate an issue, it means nothing.

 

[Glenda W.]

According to Blackstone all oil has good wear numbers conventional, syn, and syn blend they can’t tell the difference between brands either. As we know lots more to oil than wear. I’m not picking on R&P it’s a fine api oil.

 

[Glenda W.]

@Glenda W. Which oil are you referencing? Is it one that has a reputation for cleaning?

I’ve converted my fleet to ESP 0w30. Results have been great.

 

[buster]

I feel most oils control wear well these days. Keeping rings clean in GDI engines? not so much.

 

[Glenda W.]

I feel most oils control wear well these days. Keeping rings clean in GDI engines? not so much.

Exactly

 

[buster]

Going even further, I can't remember the last time anyone lost an engine due to wear. It's mostly oil consumption later in engine life due to ring sticking.

 

[Glenda W.]

Going even further, I can't remember the last time anyone lost an engine due to wear. It's mostly oil consumption later in engine life due to ring sticking.

It’s actually amazing how good a worn engine can run sometimes.