why ever use 5W30 or 10W30?

[joaks]

I'm sorry this is such stupid question but here goes:
My car is labeled for 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer (it's a 1997 FYI). Since the minimum temperature that the engine can reach is near limitless (within reason, of course) but the maximum is controlled by the cooling system, why would I ever need to use 10W30? If I use synthetic, couldn't I use 0W30 all year?

 

[D189379]

Short answer, yes you could.

 

[Techniker]

Yes. And you should. No matter how low the prefix number is, it's still a much higher viscosity than your engine wants to see for wear. This is where the generic quote, "90% of your engine wear occurs at startup" comes from- a cold engine. It's also why, when you start your car in the morning, you should give it time to warm up, or at the very least, drive it very gently until it reaches operating temperature.

-Techniker

 

[exranger06]

10w30 is a pretty useless viscosity IMO.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
10w30 is a pretty useless viscosity IMO.


Its still thicker until it gets to full operating temperature, and some engines dont like too thin an oil, they may spin a bearing.

In the hot 110 degree heat it really doesnt mayyer the 0W, 5W. or 10. even 15W and 20W are "ok" in the hot hot, but realistically 20W isnt needed except for specialty apps, 15W is about the thickest prefix and 10W is ok.

The W number is only "resistance to flow" so if its not 0 degrees outside (even a 10W barely passes muster there,) why the hubbub?

 

[qdeezie]

Yes, you could definitely do 0w-30 all year. There are no issues with it. In fact, if you look on the back of the Mobil 1 0w-30 bottle it tells you that it gives the same protection as 5w-30 and 10w-30 at the normal operating temperature.

In addition to this, you'll have better cold temperature/startup protection as well from the 0w.

 

[SLCraig]

0w30 rocks.
The only reason it doesn't go into all the cars I am responsible for maintaining is price/availability.

0w30 never goes on sale as far as the standard synthetic sales go (5 and 10-30 only usually) so I just never buy it.

I'd use the Petro Canada 0w30 for example year round for sure.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
0w30 rocks.
The only reason it doesn't go into all the cars I am responsible for maintaining is price/availability.

0w30 never goes on sale as far as the standard synthetic sales go (5 and 10-30 only usually) so I just never buy it.

I'd use the Petro Canada 0w30 for example year round for sure.
Same here-5W30 Valvoline Synpower routinely is free or near free after rebate, while the thin 0W30s (NOT GC) such as Mobil 1 AFE are hard to get for less than $4/quart-big difference in price for NOT a big difference in performance!

 

[cp3]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
I'd use the Petro Canada 0w30 for example year round for sure.


That's my plan once I use up my PP & PU in a few weeks.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
I'd use the Petro Canada 0w30 for example year round for sure.


That's my plan once I use up my PP & PU in a few weeks.


I'm sure it won't disappoint

 

[ARCOgraphite]

IF 0W-30 IS NOT A "REAL" SYNTHETIC (WHICH IT PROBABLY ISNT) IT WILL NOT STAY IN GRADE THROUGH A CHALLENGING OCI. IF A 10W-30 EXHIBITS A LOWER noack THAN ITS BROTHER 5W, IT WILL STAY IN GRADE AND CAUSE LESS DEPOSITS THAN A WEIGHTLESS OIL WITH TONS OF NON-LUBRICATING, SLUDGE AND VARNISH INDUCING VISCOSITY INDEX IMPROVERS. This all may be moot as SN is to address why previous SM, SL 5w-30 was a very very compromised oil which would fail to lubricate under stress and E10/85 dilution. Now Guess why most diesel lubricant are not 5w and many are straight grade (with some exceptions in arctic zones). You dont get a 0w for free and a good one can be $$$ to build.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
0w30 rocks.
The only reason it doesn't go into all the cars I am responsible for maintaining is price/availability.

0w30 never goes on sale as far as the standard synthetic sales go (5 and 10-30 only usually) so I just never buy it.

I'd use the Petro Canada 0w30 for example year round for sure.
Same here-5W30 Valvoline Synpower routinely is free or near free after rebate, while the thin 0W30s (NOT GC) such as Mobil 1 AFE are hard to get for less than $4/quart-big difference in price for NOT a big difference in performance!


Never in my life seen SynPower on sale north of the border.
Shame really. I've always wanted to try it. It's like $35 a jug here, always.

 

[sangyup81]

do the 5w30/10w30 thing if you are using dino with an oil car

 

[pbm]

There is a big difference between 5w30's of the 1997 era and those of today. When your cars OM was written, 5W30's were made from Group 1 basestocks, hence 10w30s were more stable (less volatility burnoff).
Todays 5w30's made from Gr.II and Gr.II+ (and even some Gr. III) are far superior and make 10w30 nearly obsolete.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Yes, you could definitely do 0w-30 all year. There are no issues with it. In fact, if you look on the back of the Mobil 1 0w-30 bottle it tells you that it gives the same protection as 5w-30 and 10w-30 at the normal operating temperature.

In addition to this, you'll have better cold temperature/startup protection as well from the 0w.
I have to disagree, I havent looked at the NEW revised spec, but the previous M1AFE was not long drain capable, did not meet ht06 - so its compromised from the M1 5w30 spec wise prima facie. I would absolutely NOT run a 0w unless you are doing a lot of sub zero starts, It will do nothing for you and work against you v. warmer clime winter multigrades. (rated)

 

[chubbs1]

As long as you use a good quality major, 0w or 5w's are fine all year. I do think there is a place for 10w30, it has less VII's and some VII's are better than others. Mobil 1's new Super 5000 has some pretty good specs for 10w30 and Amsoil's 10w30 ACD has no VII's and would be the oil of my choice if my vehicles were not under warranty for an SM rated oil. Just throwing out another side. I really like when people rave that the new Toyota 0w20 has a VI of 210, though it is one of the only brands of oil that significantly dropped in price according to Jobbers World Jan 11, 2010. It makes me wonder if the quality of the base is as good as it should be. It is pure conjecture of course, but I wouldn't use it personally.

 

[unixguru]

I agree with ARCOgraphite, that 10w30 is a decent oil. It has lower NOACK numbers and higher (sometimes by a good margin) HTHS number which is beneficial for turbo applications and engines which tend to shear oil. Besides synthetic 10w30 flows a lot easier in cold than mineral 5w30. I've been using 10w30 in California in my Ecotec 2.2 for over 8 years without any issues often with 10k oci. My brother in law used M1 10w30 in NY for 3 years year-round without any issues either.

 

[Steve S]

Where do you get your ideas about oil? Oil temperature is related to the load on the engine.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite

I would absolutely NOT run a 0w unless you are doing a lot of sub zero starts, It will do nothing for you and work against you v. warmer clime winter multigrades. (rated)


This comes up so often that I think it needs to be addressed. This just isn't true. A 0W oil is closer to operating temperature at any ambient temps, not just sub zero. At sub zero, MRV spec starts to become more important anyway. There's an advantage at running on oil that is a) closer to the correct viscosity at start-up and b)gets up to operating temps more quickly, regardless of the ambients temps.

Sure a 0W or 5W oil may have a higher percentage of VI's and higher burn-off under laboratory conditions, but this disregards the way most people drive. If you're consistently running your car for more than 20 minutes every time you turn it over, and you're using an inexpensive mineral-based oil, then the lower VI/NOAK oil may have some advantages. How long do you think the average trip is in an automobile?? Sure, if you're doing a ton of hwy miles and infrequent starts, there's potentially an advantage to a lower VI oil(depending on the VII improvers being used). That's not how most people drive.

The UOA's I've seen on modern 5W30's seem to indicate that any SM-rated oil is still suitable for use within a reasonable OCI.

Here's an interesting comparison of M1's 0W and 5W oils: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1534505

Lastly, I have to say I really haven't seen these sludged up engines (which you mentioned earlier) full of deposits on 0W30 and 5W30 oils.

 

[CATERHAM]

M1 AFE 0W-30 is an excellent product and has proven to be as shear stable as M1 5W-30. It still meets the Corvette 4713M spec' but it is a bit lighter than M1 5W-30 as evidenced by it's lower HTHS vis of 3.06cP vs 3.13cP which is more than adequate for most 30wt applications. you want or need a heavier oil simply substitute a qt of Mobil's race proven 0W-40 and you'll still retain the 180 plus VI.

While AFE 0W-30's extreme cold temp performance is second to none, it's advantages applies at more normal start-up temp's as well. It's 13% lighter at room temperature and 20% lighter at 20F vs M1 5W-30.