Why doesn't Schaffers oil get more love?

Boutique brands don't get much love here period, mainly because they are less transparent than the majors while making bolder claims than the majors. The exception seems to be HPL, in that the company has offered near total transparency to customers and bitog members, even going so far as custom blend single cases of oil for one customer.

I've used boutique brands on and off through the years and don't have anything bad to say about them or have I had any bad experiences. The recent one was Swepco 306. Ran it several oil changes, had several voas of the product run, came to the conclusion it's a good oil especially for classic cars, but there are better and more readily available options for my own personal applications.

My boss just put in another order of 12 24 quart cases of the stuff so he's pleased and doesn't mind spending the money.
 
Boutique brands don't get much love here period, mainly because they are less transparent than the majors while making bolder claims than the majors. The exception seems to be HPL, in that the company has offered near total transparency to customers and bitog members, even going so far as custom blend single cases of oil for one customer.

I've used boutique brands on and off through the years and don't have anything bad to say about them or have I had any bad experiences. The recent one was Swepco 306. Ran it several oil changes, had several voas of the product run, came to the conclusion it's a good oil especially for classic cars, but there are better and more readily available options for my own personal applications.

My boss just put in another order of 12 24 quart cases of the stuff so he's pleased and doesn't mind spending the money.

Through the years I've used Schaeffer's, Amsoil, Driven,Torco, Royal Purple and HPL. I have had no issues with any of them.
 
Through the years I've used Schaeffer's, Amsoil, Driven,Torco, Royal Purple and HPL. I have had no issues with any of them.
I've got Severe Gear in the rear diff on my Silverado. I can't honestly say I noticed any difference changing to it from whatever was in there, but a friend of mine runs an off road accessory shop and is an Amsoil dealer so I throw some business his way once in awhile. Hard to beat though squeeze pouches for gear oil.

For a long time my boss ran a lot of Schaeffer's 7000, 9000 and Micron Moly racing oil. Our local rep retired and now we don't have a rep anymore. So he's went to Amsoil SS for newer vehicles and Swepco 306 for the old for the most part
 
I've got Severe Gear in the rear diff on my Silverado. I can't honestly say I noticed any difference changing to it from whatever was in there, but a friend of mine runs an off road accessory shop and is an Amsoil dealer so I throw some business his way once in awhile. Hard to beat though squeeze pouches for gear oil.

For a long time my boss ran a lot of Schaeffer's 7000, 9000 and Micron Moly racing oil. Our local rep retired and now we don't have a rep anymore. So he's went to Amsoil SS for newer vehicles and Swepco 306 for the old for the most part
My suv didn’t sound right with sever gear. There was definitely more drivetrain noise. I’m using motul and it’s as quiet as new, also have some schaeffers 75-90 waiting for the weather to warm.
 
My suv didn’t sound right with sever gear. There was definitely more drivetrain noise. I’m using motul and it’s as quiet as new, also have some schaeffers 75-90 waiting for the weather to warm.
Mines as quiet as it's ever been. I've got Lucas conventional 80w90 in the front, same thing. Never noticed any difference in noise or performance of the differential, and I use 4wd semi regularly
 
Mines as quiet as it's ever been. I've got Lucas conventional 80w90 in the front, same thing. Never noticed any difference in noise or performance of the differential, and I use 4wd semi regularly
But I’m talking about a Nissan rogue as opposed to something heavy duty. I tried it for a year and it just never sounded right. I went with motul mineral 80-90 and it deadened any extra noise. I’m sure amsoil was plenty stout, it just didn’t play well with my application.
 
But I’m talking about a Nissan rogue as opposed to something heavy duty. I tried it for a year and it just never sounded right. I went with motul mineral 80-90 and it deadened any extra noise. I’m sure amsoil was plenty stout, it just didn’t play well with my application.
Was the Rogue white?
 
Through the years I've used Schaeffer's, Amsoil, Driven,Torco, Royal Purple and HPL. I have had no issues with any of them.
You can run the cheapest oil out there for an oil change it, however unless you do a uoa you don’t know how the oil is doing. Many people say they run this without any issues and yet their wear rate has increased, varnish build up, or etc yet it “ran just fine” without any data lol.

For example. Both ran just fine. Yet wear rates was drastically different.

IMG_9063.webp
 
You can run the cheapest oil out there for an oil change it, however unless you do a uoa you don’t know how the oil is doing. Many people say they run this without any issues and yet their wear rate has increased, varnish build up, or etc yet it “ran just fine” without any data lol.

For example. Both ran just fine. Yet wear rates was drastically different.

View attachment 265438
Is "machine" mileage there actually 5,000 and 7,500 kilometers?
 
The price you pay for it you might as well get amsoil, driven, redline, or hpl and get a better product.
I don’t know about that. Considering most of the oils you mentioned cost 30-40% more, I don't believe you’re getting an oil that’s 30-40% better. If you’re using any of these oils in a GDI there’s only so much abuse any oil can take.
 
I don’t know about that. Considering most of the oils you mentioned cost 30-40% more, I don't believe you’re getting an oil that’s 30-40% better. If you’re using any of these oils in a GDI there’s only so much abuse any oil can take.
They’re definitely a lot better. Search comparison results and how cleans engines are using those boutique oils.
 
Because if it is, those numbers mean basically nothing, due to break-in.
Definitely right on that. I’ll be doing my own tests in 3 different vehicles on different oils to be able to show more data with more information to be able to help. Just gonna take time.
 
Definitely right on that. I’ll be doing my own tests in 3 different vehicles on different oils to be able to show more data with more information to be able to help. Just gonna take time.
What kind of tests are you going to run? Comparative oil quality testing isn’t trivial.
 
What kind of tests are you going to run? Comparative oil quality testing isn’t trivial.
Just a few of popular off the shelf synthetic oils for 6-7k miles for 2 ocis each and then each amsoil tier for oe, hm, xl, and ss the same process. Then progress and see how long they can go. 3 vehicles, different types of driving between sitting and driving on weekends, mostly highway, and one vehicle that’s a mix a both highway and city.
Compare wear rates, shear stability and oxidation stability, and also a few just give myself peace at mind of 10-15-20k intervals of amsoil ss.

Also curious how amsoil z rod and amsoil ss will differ in the Yukon Denali. I will also be testing a 30 and 40 grade viscosity of the same oils in each vehicle to see how much it changes wear rates. Gonna take some time. Especially in the truck.
 
Just a few of popular off the shelf synthetic oils for 6-7k miles for 2 ocis each and then each amsoil tier for oe, hm, xl, and ss the same process. Then progress and see how long they can go. 3 vehicles, different types of driving between sitting and driving on weekends, mostly highway, and one vehicle that’s a mix a both highway and city.
Compare wear rates, shear stability and oxidation stability, and also a few just give myself peace at mind of 10-15-20k intervals of amsoil ss.

Also curious how amsoil z rod and amsoil ss will differ in the Yukon Denali. I will also be testing a 30 and 40 grade viscosity of the same oils in each vehicle to see how much it changes wear rates. Gonna take some time. Especially in the truck.
You can't use UOA's to compare wear rates between oils (within reason). The tool simply lacks the resolution (nor is the measurement direct, it can't discern between chemical chelation and physical wear) and it's blind to particle sizes above about 5 microns.

The tool's purpose is to determine and monitor the condition of the lubricant for suitability for continued use. Find out what's "normal" for a particular engine/oil combo and then trending to monitor for significant deviations from that.

There's an article on the main page by Doug Hillary that gets into this in detail. Worth a read if you haven't:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/
 
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