Why 10K Miles Oil change may not be good!

I got ram1500 my wife jeep Cherokee l and just bought my daughter a Jetta all 3 say 10k on oil change,
of course I won't do that, with those nice oils today I am comfortable going up to 7k
 
I got ram1500 my wife jeep Cherokee l and just bought my daughter a Jetta all 3 say 10k on oil change,
of course I won't do that, with those nice oils today I am comfortable going up to 7k

The Jetta for sure will be fine if using the correct oil.
 
The Jetta for sure will be fine if using the correct oil.

The Jetta for sure will be fine if using the correct oil.
I am thinking about using a

Ravenol Motor Oil VMP 5W-30 Fully Synthetic of factory filled vw oil, but I am so new in to foreign cars I need to do some reading on this , I should start new treat on this and see what kind on knowalage we got on this oil here on the forum.
 
I am thinking about using a

Ravenol Motor Oil VMP 5W-30 Fully Synthetic of factory filled vw oil, but I am so new in to foreign cars I need to do some reading on this , I should start new treat on this and see what kind on knowalage we got on this oil here on the forum.
Probably a lot use the search function before starting a thread most likely what your asking has already been asked before
 
This makes perfect sense... And is yet another good reason to RUN, not walk away from 0W-16 oil, and 10,000 mile oil changes in modern Toyota's. Especially in very hot, triple digit climates.
I'd want to see the oil pressure data before drawing that conclusion, I see around 32psi at hot idle with 0W-20 in my HEMI, we are talking REALLY low oil pressure for it not to be sufficient to properly run the squirters, and the pump should be sized appropriately for the spec'd oil so that this isn't a problem. If low oil pressure is a component here, then it's a design issue.
 
I got ram1500 my wife jeep Cherokee l and just bought my daughter a Jetta all 3 say 10k on oil change,
of course I won't do that, with those nice oils today I am comfortable going up to 7k
What years? The RAM and Jeep should both have OLM's and, in my experience, they never go close to 10,000 miles.
 
In the video he says the engine started burning a quart every 1000 miles or so at something just over 100000, then was up to some ridiculous amount like 3qts per 1000 by 180000. Driving it with stuck rings for 60-80 thousand miles scored the cylinders, no oils could overcome that.

Toyota designs this overly complicated piston cooling squirter tha is oil temp and pressure dependent, clearly they think it’s critical, so you cannot just say it won’t matter. Guru dude says they are always plugged ( review patent and advise problem with this statement). No oil will survive over temp pistons with bad rings.

While I agree we may not (and will never) have the whole story… in order to blame the oil we have to ignore the rest of the engine.

There is absolutely no evidence that a different oil or thicker viscosity or more frequent changes would have changed anything
True. It seems many people who buy cars cheap out on oil (as do dealers) and are incompetent at keeping up with their maintenance.
 
From the limited number of Ram vehicles I have seen, they go off between 9-10K.
Given that it varies depending on driving conditions and you are in cali, I think that makes sense, lol.
Our 2019 DT has only had one "long" OCI in its history and that was straight summer driving when my wife drove it out east on a trip, which the OLM seemed to be happy with.

All changed at 0%:
1. March 6th 2019 - August 27th 2019 - 8,716 miles
2. August 27th 2019 - May 4th 2020 - 6,508 miles
3. May 4th 2020 - January 6th 2021 - 7,253 miles
4. January 6th 2021 - November 18th 2021 - 7,280 miles
5. November 18th 2021 - July 7th 2022 - 6,198 miles

Now, we DID own a 2018 DS, but it was an EcoDiesel, so perhaps the DS trucks are less conservative?
 
Data point

2011 Camry 4 cylinder with about 230k miles. Oil has been changed at about 10k miles most of the time.

About 1/2 a quart consumption every 10k miles. Now I am starting to change at 5k miles. The way a car is driven makes a big difference.
 
I used to do 15k OCI when I had 110mile commute. Was using top tier, lighter grade amsoil (0w20 vs 5w30) Oil analysis always came back fantastic with room to run longer.

When I changed the valve cover gasket at 160k the inside looked essentially new.

I use 5w30 now as I near 200k and now with only a 20mile commute I do the stock recomimended 5k OCI. Was doing a 20K FCI but I am changing that to 10k intervals for the filter.

I view it as bunch of mileage piled on during a drive or heat cycle is way less demanding then short drives and especially during cooler months.

Plus with all my other cars I drive a 15k OCI would be 3 years lol
 
Commute seems to be a big factor in whether to do these 10,000 OCI’s...and I’m one that kind of (maybe) considers that. My commute is 80 miles a day...70 miles of that is my commute...75 mph set on cruise control, and 40 mph on the backroads. Very little stop and go, in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees in the winter and 90 degrees in the summer. I’ll also do another 10 miles back and forth to the gym when I get home. All side roads, a few stops, an hour and a half at the gym, back in the car and garaged the rest of the night.

But highway is pretty much constant speed and constant RPM...is that good? Also, how far open is that throttle plate on cruise control doing the same speed for 30 miles? What’s the vacuum like in that manifold? Is spinning that engine consistently at that speed for a good 40 minutes a good thing? Wouldn’t it be better to slow it down to idle once in a while, then varying speed, before hitting that 70-75 mph mark for a duration? I guess what I’m asking is, is this really ideal for oil?
 
True. It seems many people who buy cars cheap out on oil (as do dealers) and are incompetent at keeping up with their maintenance.
Then there’s the angle that about any API SN, SP, SP plus ? oil etc is good enough to do the job…
There is similar think on an oil filter.
 
Commute is the deciding factor for me. My wife and I continue to do 10,000 OCI's because our daily commute (we work at the same place but different hours so we can't ride together) is all hwy for a 104 mile roundtrip. I retire in 5 more years. At that point, my driving will be city driving 80% of the time. I expect to change my OCI's at that point to 5,000.
 
I put 10,000 mile oil changes in the same category as brushing your teeth 3 times a week, or flushing the toilet after every other use. All 3 can be done, but you're not saving anywhere near what you think.
 
I put 10,000 mile oil changes in the same category as brushing your teeth 3 times a week, or flushing the toilet after every other use. All 3 can be done, but you're not saving anywhere near what you think.
For many situations, I am inclined to agree that it does sacrifice a bit of deposit control and safety margin. But there are some "overadditized" oils on the market today where 10K can be a very comfortable interval.
 
2019 Ram DS Data Point

Super easy (mainly highway) 25 mile each way commute and the OLM trips just a shade over 10,000 miles.

With Pennzoil Platinum the UOA came back in good shape. I plan to do another to confirm. Just changed the oil a month ago. Probably due early/mid April.
 
I put 10,000 mile oil changes in the same category as brushing your teeth 3 times a week, or flushing the toilet after every other use. All 3 can be done, but you're not saving anywhere near what you think.

I disagree with your analogy. I think it's more like the evolution of engines. Engines are much more advanced these days, produce less emissions and blow-by gases, are more efficient, last much longer, etc... same way with oils. (and filters) An OEM engine in the early 70s probably dumped more contaminants in the oil in 3,000 miles than a 2010+ engine does in 20,000-25,000 miles. Better engineering and improved machining has lead to tighter tolerances and better ring seal with improved combustion efficiency, thermal efficiency, and mechanical efficiency. On top of oil quality improving a lot in that same timeframe, plus brands like Amsoil and HPL reaching far beyond that, the oil isn't being abused as much from a contamination perspective. If the oil is shear and thermally stable and fuel/water dilution is in check, I say let it ride.

We're willing to accept that modern engines aren't worn out and in need of a rebuild at 100k miles. We accept that advancements have allowed them to last much longer. Why can't we do the same with oil?
 
IMO the 10k OCI was feasible a few years ago but now that they continue to neuter the oils and take all of the good antiwear ingredients out its going in the opposite direction. I change the oil in everything I own at 5000 miles max.
 
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