Debating using HPL 5W-30 in a 2019 Lexus RX450h that’s used for Uber. But I’m leery of using good oil for that cause - monthly OCIs at 5K. I could do 10K OCIs but given the propensity of Toyota piston rings getting stuck…
Who's running High Performance Lubricants (HPL) products in their engine?
- Thread starter The Critic
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Curious, does the oil gets really dark at 5K miles on the RX?
I got the 2GR-FKS, it gets dark under 2k (using 5W30) miles given it is a D4S system.
D
Deleted member 89374
He should probably try Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 first and see if it quiets his engine down enough. Though I read on another forum that PUP is the bee's knees, and that Red Line 5W-30 is what quiets engines, especially those that tick. So, he might not be a good candidate for HPL because he won't appreciate it for what it can truly do.
We know for a fact that engine noise does not correlate with engine wear. If that was true, then @Big_kahuna could just replace two to three quarts of motor oil with Heavy Duty Lucas Oil Stabilizer and he'd have the quietest engine ever... for a while.
And he wants to go all the way and have the ultimate quiet engine, like he'll never hear it again, four quarts of Castrol GTX 20W-50 plus four quarts of Lucas Oil Stabilizer will get it done, guaranteed.
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This one is a 2GR-FXS, oil has a golden brown hue on the dipstick but drains dark at 5K.
If I decide to use HPL in this, I’m going to use a FU/Puro Boss cartridge as well.
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I could never stomach the price of boutique oils for changes that frequent. Mobil 1, or Pennzoil Platinum, or whatever your preferred brand of "regular" synthetics is, will do absolutely fine.
Just remember: it is still cheaper than a trip to Jiffy Lube every 5K. They charge $109.99 for 5 QTs of synthetic; additional quarts are $12.
Except they will strip your drain bolt, over-tighten your filter and improperly reinstall your splash guard for free!
It's not for everyone.
D
Deleted member 89374
If you like Alkylated Naphthalenes in your motor oil, then the absolute bottom you'd want to settle for is Mobil 1. Of course the "boutique" brands use such expensive materials as Esters and ANs. That's what makes them "special". Especially HPL. You should check out HPL's PDS documents on the various motor oils they offer, and look for that density number. There is a reason for that.
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Lyft has gotten into the maintenance business, $50-60 for a “synthetic” oil change but for 5 qts and “basic” cars.
You'll pay the same or more at many oil change places for a synthetic oil change. What's going to be better at preventing the common ring coking problem in that engine? Mobil 1 5W-30 at ~10% Noack (per 2013 PQIA report) or HPL PCMO 5W-30 at ~6.5% Noack plus ester and AN for cleaning.
Even here in South Carolina, Jiffy Lube charges $89.99 (+ tax) for a synthetic oil change which only covers 5 quarts. (+$10 for each additional quart) HPL PCMO 5W-30 is $70.16 for 6 quarts before the 15% Bitog discount.
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Comparing DIY oil changes against shop oil change pricing is hardly apples to apples.
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I'm well aware of more expensive materials in boutique oil blends such as esters. I've been around this forum for many years and I've purchased boutique oils before, most commonly for a motorcycle application where it matters to me more. For a daily driver, I don't see the gain.
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A nearly ten year old PQIA report about Mobil 1 of a different formulation than what is on the shelves today doesn't exactly convince me.
2018 Subaru Forester fb25 6 speed manual. HPL 0w30 Premium Passenger Car Engine Oil. Will sample at 16k miles.
From 0-1200 miles no noticeable change on dipstick. From 1200-2300 car took a highway trip and consumed 3/4 quart (suspect pcv valve, replaced valve). From 2,300-7,000 miles (currently) the level has not changed on the dipstick aside from the smidge it moved from changing the oil filter at 5,000. Car has travelled full day highway since with no consumption. Filter had more "soft goo" in it than I've seen with previous filters on different oils. Impressed with how dark this oil has become. Would recommend to others with subaru to replace pcv valve when starting this oil. Very pleased so far.
From 0-1200 miles no noticeable change on dipstick. From 1200-2300 car took a highway trip and consumed 3/4 quart (suspect pcv valve, replaced valve). From 2,300-7,000 miles (currently) the level has not changed on the dipstick aside from the smidge it moved from changing the oil filter at 5,000. Car has travelled full day highway since with no consumption. Filter had more "soft goo" in it than I've seen with previous filters on different oils. Impressed with how dark this oil has become. Would recommend to others with subaru to replace pcv valve when starting this oil. Very pleased so far.
When I added the HPL-EC, the low oil warning was on, indicating the crankcase was a quart low. Figured it was a good time to add the EC. The low oil level warning did not go out. Checked the dipstick and was 1 quart over filled. I just left it that way. Oil level sensors (new or used) are unobtainium, as are most parts for a 36 year old Asian import.
It's ~250 miles into the "cleaning" and the low oil level sensor (simple float switch) is working again. Coincidence?
2018 ram 1500, HPL supercar 0w30. Planning to run this for 1 year depending on how many miles i put on. If i stay under 20k this year ill go a year
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2021 Runner, HPL 10W-30 HDEO
2008 Highlander HPL 0W-30 EURO. (Ran HPL Engine Cleaner for 2,000 miles with Fram Ultra, prior to this new oil change)
2008 Highlander HPL 0W-30 EURO. (Ran HPL Engine Cleaner for 2,000 miles with Fram Ultra, prior to this new oil change)
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would you guide me to what i should look for when looking at Density?
any information you can give would be helpful. i'm a HPL fanboy as you can see by my Signature.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Good products use results in good results.
