Whirlpool washer troubleshooting

[Burt]

Our whirlpool washer wasn't agitating or going through the cycles. It was making brief awful noises. Watching videos, it looked like replacing the shift actuator was the most likely solution, so I replaced it. And I needed to go thru the recalibration process which I attempted, but all I get is a blinking "wash" light. I believe this means E1 code, but I'm unable to determine what this means or it may mean is I need to replace the shift actuator.

Is there any expertise out there that can point me in the right direction, even if it is to a error code guide or trustworthy link?

 

[dnewton3]

Do you have the electrical diagram for the unit (usually located on the lower kick panel)? Often the trouble shooting stuff is included in that info. I know that mine was acting up and I simply had to run a "reset" as described in the instructions.

 

[Burt]

Do you have the electrical diagram for the unit (usually located on the lower kick panel)? Often the trouble shooting stuff is included in that info. I know that mine was acting up and I simply had to run a "reset" as described in the instructions.

I tried the "spin the dial" recalibration multiple times and in the variety of ways described in videos, but for a long time, it wouldn't work. I tried the open and close lid 6 time in 12 seconds to reset and that didn't work. BUT I set the dial to "normal" wash, pushed the start button and then went thru the dial recalibrate steps and it worked! sort of... It went thru all the calibration steps, but after that it fills with water, attempts to agitate for a fraction of a second every few minutes and eventually empties itself. Sigh.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Had a similiar problem with my Maytag washer, which is a rebranded Whirlpool ( little did I know). Turned out to be the main control board / motherboard. Of course it was a discontinued part, even though the machine is only 4 yrs old. Went on Fleabay and picked up a " Tested & Working" used one from a reputable seller. It worked I remember washing machines lasting 15 yrs without a problem. Just don't make em like they use to .....That used part wasn't cheap either, but cheaper than a new piece of junk. I remember my mom's machines would last 25yrs, and she had 3 kids. Machine was always washing something.

 

[Geekhead]

Had a similiar problem with my Maytag washer, which is a rebranded Whirlpool ( little did I know). Turned out to be the main control board / motherboard. Of course it was a discontinued part, even though the machine is only 4 yrs old. Went on Fleabay and picked up a " Tested & Working" used one from a reputable seller. It worked I remember washing machines lasting 15 yrs without a problem. Just don't make em like they use to .....That used part wasn't cheap either, but cheaper than a new piece of junk. I remember my mom's machines would last 25yrs, and she had 3 kids. Machine was always washing something.

My mechanical timer 22 year old Maytag is still going strong. I can't stand the race to the bottom of quality just to fool ignorant consumers with a lower initial purchase price. I call it the Walmart effect. Is it possible to buy shares in garbage landfill companies?

 

[50yr Street Mech]

The machines with the mechanical timers were the BEST. That's when Maytag was really Maytag, not a mumbo jumbo of different parts. My 2 yr old GE dishwasher went on the fritz. The problem was the Whirpool control board in the door ! I fixed it, unplugged it. Told everyone in the house " we don't have a dishwasher anymore, use the sink and a sponge" . I'm not fixing it again in a couple of years !!! What a PITA to get at and replace that board. At least I know when I sell this house, the stupid thing will be working

 

[repairman54]

Tech sheet can be located inside the console or more likely in a bag stuck to the inside of the main cabinet front.
It will have a code list and how to access the service mode and run a diagnostics.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Yep, you are correct. That's where I found mine. Put that POS Maytag washer in " Test" mode, and half of the functions weren't working. That's how I knew it was the control board. It was spitting out " DRN" & an "E1" code before I tackled the job. Stupid thing was only 4yrs old, but came with a 10yr warranty on the motor and transmission only. It should have been labeled Hyundai or Kia..LOL

 

[Burt]

Ok. I was able to get the diagnostic code of F7E5 which is faulty shift actuator - the part that I just replaced. Now I need to find if there is a way to clear the code. REset and recalibrate haven't done it so far.

 

[walterjay]

Have you tried a hard re-set by unplugging the machine for 20 minutes? It solved a problem in my Bosch dishwasher with all the electronics junk.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Happy for you that it wasn't the control board. I don't know how to reset/recalibrate to clear the code. I got lucky with the used one. I just put it in, and it worked.

 

[Burt]

Have you tried a hard re-set by unplugging the machine for 20 minutes? It solved a problem in my Bosch dishwasher with all the electronics junk.

I tried this and success! I really appreciate all the constructive suggestions. Bitog is a so much better resource than even appliance forums or the uneven YouTube videos. Called Whirlpool "customer support" and they just said "call a service tech" (for ~$150)

 

[repairman54]

That's the one thing I really like about Whirlpool built stuff. Tech sheet comes onboard even though its hidden.
No such thing with the imports.
When working on it it should be unplugged and that time is usually enough in my experience so a recalibration usually runs right away.
I said usually, Murphy's law applies.