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- Jul 10, 2022
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I was unable to do my Lexus V8, in the driveway with car jacked up.
I found a pic online so I would know what I was looking at--this would be from the pass side which I was primarily focused upon due to a P0051:
The sensor is angled down, and in, so now imagine trying to deal with it considering a hand can't really get there. I believe the connector is undone using a hook since again a hand really can't reach it. I managed to get a offset 02 sensor tool on the sensor, but it was really difficult to get it positioned correctly, and my ratchet head kept swiveling. What a mess. When I did manage to get it on properly, it wouldn't budge so I rounded a corner or two. Also, the straw of the WD40 penetrant didn't come anywhere close to the sensor and there was a heat shield. I let it run down.
At any rate, while I had the underbelly pan off, I noticed the white wire behind the car's or engine's plug, to be twisted together, as if someone spliced it. You know if this were home electrical, it would have a wire nut. I've had the car 6 years, it's a 2006, so it wasn't under my ownership (never got a check engine until now).
Off I go to the indie. I gave them Denso 02 sensors, cost me $52 for the pass side, $42 for the driver (the Lexus parts are $233 and $174 respectively--OUCH). Driver side has a shorter wire.
With my car on the lift talking to the owner and tech, I got a tip, because I said wow look at that--I was not able to get it out (easier to visualize when car is on lift).
Owner said, no, you'd have a very hard time trying to do that from the ground.
I say, also, not only could I not reach the sensor with my WD40, but I don't understand, how would it even penetrate if I could (there's a crush washer, I mean that's the equivalent to me of an oil drain plug washer--to prevent any seepage). He said it wouldn't, you're right. You have to carefully crack it just a little, then spray, then wait. AH!!! Now I get it--just like when I installed a trailer hitch on my wife's 10 y.o. SUV. All the pre-drilled threads were severely rusted--had to be very careful in trying to spray, then clean the threads, and to work the hitch bolts in and out, prior to chasing the threads....
Now came the bad news from the desk person. After replacing both sensors, the check engine was still there. They needed to repair the wiring. Here's a pic that I took last weekend--it was here and also further up:
What you're looking at is on the right side, that's behind the car's plug to the 02 sensor. To the left, that's going somewhere up to a module etc., maybe a relay, but the engine side. See the white wire? It's a little damp from slight seepage from the valve covers (the car is 17 so eventually gonna need gaskets done, no top offs between oil changes needed).
In the end, I was out the door at $300--the wire repair cost another $120. I actually don't mind paying in these cases where I failed on my own. I say at least I tried, and when in combination with a competent indie, I learned. Also, can you imagine how much it would have been at the dealer? imho the wire problem would send the price up exponentially. So even though I prematurely replaced the 2 upstream sensors, at $52 and $42 and $180 labor, it's OK.
A very good feeling--no MIL came back, and I drove about 60 miles so far. Every I/M category is ready, except EVAP. That seems to always be the category that takes the longest. It probably requires a cold start. My wife's GM takes 800-1000 miles if you can believe that (UGH).
btw the downstream sensors are completely accessible from underneath. I would attempt, but very good chance they don't budge. Also, the wiring goes through the floor and into the center console where they plug in. I saw on YouTube where someone sliced the carpet open--I'd double check that one lol and hope I never need to address them...
edit: I just found something--the Toyota part pricing is reversed--the driver side with the short wire, costs more. Whereas the Denso part, the pass side costs more. So, is it possible then, to buy 2 pass side Toyota branded OE sensors, and use them on both sides, or, are the plugs different? I would think they're the same, so one would just have excess wire and save money? lol But I think Denso or Bosch are better choices. In the Japanese car world, I have a very hard time researching if a part is OEM or aftermarket--whereas with German it seems totally transparent. My hunch? My Denso parts are aftermarket, not OEM, because they are made in USA. But that's not the only factor--my wife's GM SUV has a OE alternator made by Denso in the USA...haha
Here's what I mean, found this pic online showing the Toyota part is made in Japan
I found a pic online so I would know what I was looking at--this would be from the pass side which I was primarily focused upon due to a P0051:
The sensor is angled down, and in, so now imagine trying to deal with it considering a hand can't really get there. I believe the connector is undone using a hook since again a hand really can't reach it. I managed to get a offset 02 sensor tool on the sensor, but it was really difficult to get it positioned correctly, and my ratchet head kept swiveling. What a mess. When I did manage to get it on properly, it wouldn't budge so I rounded a corner or two. Also, the straw of the WD40 penetrant didn't come anywhere close to the sensor and there was a heat shield. I let it run down.
At any rate, while I had the underbelly pan off, I noticed the white wire behind the car's or engine's plug, to be twisted together, as if someone spliced it. You know if this were home electrical, it would have a wire nut. I've had the car 6 years, it's a 2006, so it wasn't under my ownership (never got a check engine until now).
Off I go to the indie. I gave them Denso 02 sensors, cost me $52 for the pass side, $42 for the driver (the Lexus parts are $233 and $174 respectively--OUCH). Driver side has a shorter wire.
With my car on the lift talking to the owner and tech, I got a tip, because I said wow look at that--I was not able to get it out (easier to visualize when car is on lift).
Owner said, no, you'd have a very hard time trying to do that from the ground.
I say, also, not only could I not reach the sensor with my WD40, but I don't understand, how would it even penetrate if I could (there's a crush washer, I mean that's the equivalent to me of an oil drain plug washer--to prevent any seepage). He said it wouldn't, you're right. You have to carefully crack it just a little, then spray, then wait. AH!!! Now I get it--just like when I installed a trailer hitch on my wife's 10 y.o. SUV. All the pre-drilled threads were severely rusted--had to be very careful in trying to spray, then clean the threads, and to work the hitch bolts in and out, prior to chasing the threads....
Now came the bad news from the desk person. After replacing both sensors, the check engine was still there. They needed to repair the wiring. Here's a pic that I took last weekend--it was here and also further up:
What you're looking at is on the right side, that's behind the car's plug to the 02 sensor. To the left, that's going somewhere up to a module etc., maybe a relay, but the engine side. See the white wire? It's a little damp from slight seepage from the valve covers (the car is 17 so eventually gonna need gaskets done, no top offs between oil changes needed).
In the end, I was out the door at $300--the wire repair cost another $120. I actually don't mind paying in these cases where I failed on my own. I say at least I tried, and when in combination with a competent indie, I learned. Also, can you imagine how much it would have been at the dealer? imho the wire problem would send the price up exponentially. So even though I prematurely replaced the 2 upstream sensors, at $52 and $42 and $180 labor, it's OK.
A very good feeling--no MIL came back, and I drove about 60 miles so far. Every I/M category is ready, except EVAP. That seems to always be the category that takes the longest. It probably requires a cold start. My wife's GM takes 800-1000 miles if you can believe that (UGH).
btw the downstream sensors are completely accessible from underneath. I would attempt, but very good chance they don't budge. Also, the wiring goes through the floor and into the center console where they plug in. I saw on YouTube where someone sliced the carpet open--I'd double check that one lol and hope I never need to address them...
edit: I just found something--the Toyota part pricing is reversed--the driver side with the short wire, costs more. Whereas the Denso part, the pass side costs more. So, is it possible then, to buy 2 pass side Toyota branded OE sensors, and use them on both sides, or, are the plugs different? I would think they're the same, so one would just have excess wire and save money? lol But I think Denso or Bosch are better choices. In the Japanese car world, I have a very hard time researching if a part is OEM or aftermarket--whereas with German it seems totally transparent. My hunch? My Denso parts are aftermarket, not OEM, because they are made in USA. But that's not the only factor--my wife's GM SUV has a OE alternator made by Denso in the USA...haha
Here's what I mean, found this pic online showing the Toyota part is made in Japan
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