No cringing from me, millions have used only dino oil and have had vehicles go well into the hundreds of thousands in mileage. I suppose people will use and buy what makes them sleep better, but I figure if I cannot tell the difference, why pay the difference. As long as that API starburst is on there, that is more than good enough.
Which type of oil do you use on a regular basis?
- Thread starter ZZman
- Start date
- Status
Most regularly:Sunflower oil.
I use it (often in combination with aluminium as an abrasive) as a rust treatment/paint. Have also been known to cook with it.
Next most regularly: Mix dominated by hydraulic oil as a chain lube on bicycles and motorcycles.
I don't use engine oil regularly. I put it in, and a few years later I take it out again. Goes round and round in the engine but doesnt get used much.
I use it (often in combination with aluminium as an abrasive) as a rust treatment/paint. Have also been known to cook with it.
Next most regularly: Mix dominated by hydraulic oil as a chain lube on bicycles and motorcycles.
I don't use engine oil regularly. I put it in, and a few years later I take it out again. Goes round and round in the engine but doesnt get used much.
Last edited:
It depends on the car, if i had a brand new car i would religiously use what the OM recomends, so that if anything were to happen to the engine, they would not be able to blame me for using an oil that they didn't specify ( even if the oil wasn't at fault ).
Do i have a brand new car though? No, i have a 18 year old small Peuegot that i exclusively use to drive to work and that gets cheap Dino 20W-50 because it burns oil
Do i have a brand new car though? No, i have a 18 year old small Peuegot that i exclusively use to drive to work and that gets cheap Dino 20W-50 because it burns oil
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Red Line because I do 10K OCI's, M1 oil filter every other oil change, with desert driving and trailer pulling. I get excellent UOA's.
I get a good price on all Red Line products because I purchase it in bulk from a distributor. I pay about 10% more for 0w-30 Red Line engine oil than the cost of Mobil 1 at Costco and I don't pay the recycle/disposal fee.
I also pay a bit more for Mobil 1 oil filters but only change them every other oil change. That makes the price cheaper than most other filters done every oil change.
Some people tell me I'm stupid for using a boutique racing oil, that I pay too much and get nothing in return. I've been told my engine will be done in less than 100K miles and that I should change my oil every 3K miles. The results from UOA's show that this scheme works, really well.
LINK
I should put Redline on my list of oils to test. 1ppm in 10k miles....
The 2UZ-FE Toyota 4.7L V8 is part of the good performance, too. It's a really good engine for reliability and service life but not so good at gas mileage. As I understand from a Toyota factory guy that engine was designed for reliability and long life in pickups, SUV's and other such vehicles for a worldwide market. This was before energy saving oils and mileage became more important.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Red Line because I do 10K OCI's, M1 oil filter every other oil change, with desert driving and trailer pulling. I get excellent UOA's.
I get a good price on all Red Line products because I purchase it in bulk from a distributor. I pay about 10% more for 0w-30 Red Line engine oil than the cost of Mobil 1 at Costco and I don't pay the recycle/disposal fee.
I also pay a bit more for Mobil 1 oil filters but only change them every other oil change. That makes the price cheaper than most other filters done every oil change.
Some people tell me I'm stupid for using a boutique racing oil, that I pay too much and get nothing in return. I've been told my engine will be done in less than 100K miles and that I should change my oil every 3K miles. The results from UOA's show that this scheme works, really well.
LINK
I should put Redline on my list of oils to test. 1ppm in 10k miles....
The 2UZ-FE Toyota 4.7L V8 is part of the good performance, too. It's a really good engine for reliability and service life but not so good at gas mileage. As I understand from a Toyota factory guy that engine was designed for reliability and long life in pickups, SUV's and other such vehicles for a worldwide market. This was before energy saving oils and mileage became more important.
we
you to The Madness
enjoy the forum I have learned a lot and made a few friends
enjoy the forum I have learned a lot and made a few friends
I run a a gambit of oils all sale priced , from the walmart 3 pack of 5 qt jugs of Valvoline for 28 bucks , went in big time for full syn at 1.85 a quart,like 15 jugs ,,,,,, , to the recent Blanes citgo Supergard syn at 2.29 with a buck a qt rebate or Supergard syn blend at 1.79 with a 1.00 rebate
why pay full price if you shop smart for quality oil and use the rebates for filters , I can change any vehicle in my fleet for around 10-12 bucks!!
why pay full price if you shop smart for quality oil and use the rebates for filters , I can change any vehicle in my fleet for around 10-12 bucks!!
Brand Name Synthetic
Valvoline Max Life-Sienna and Lexus IS
Toyota 0w20-Lexus Hybrid
Mobil 1 5w30-Avalanche
Valvoline Max Life-Sienna and Lexus IS
Toyota 0w20-Lexus Hybrid
Mobil 1 5w30-Avalanche
I run a gambit of oils all sale priced , from the walmart 3 pack of 5 qt jugs of Valvoline for 28 bucks , went in big time for full syn at 1.85 a quart,like 15 jugs ,,,,,, , to the recent Blanes citgo Supergard syn at 2.29 with a buck a qt rebate or Supergard syn blend at 1.79 with a 1.00 rebate
why pay full price if you shop smart for quality oil and use the rebates for filters , I can change any vehicle in my fleet for around 10-12 bucks!!
why pay full price if you shop smart for quality oil and use the rebates for filters , I can change any vehicle in my fleet for around 10-12 bucks!!
Last edited:
Cheapest name brand which meets the desired spec.
Various flavors of M1.
Have also used supertech HM Dino in a sludged up motor for a short oci to get coolant out.
Valvoline MaxLife red bottle in several old engines.
Penzoil conventional.
Topped off with supertech Dino when I was using a qt every 2k (PCV)
Various 10w-30s
Have also used supertech HM Dino in a sludged up motor for a short oci to get coolant out.
Valvoline MaxLife red bottle in several old engines.
Penzoil conventional.
Topped off with supertech Dino when I was using a qt every 2k (PCV)
Various 10w-30s
supertech dino or delo.
HDEO, but all my stuff is well passed 100,000 miles except the "new" pick-up. It's only 87,000. It'll get something a bit lighter than the average HDEO
Amsoil since 1981
I've almost reached my goal of having only name brand oils in stock for shop use and personal use. Havoline for conventional and Kendall for synthetic.
Name brand synthetic, usually Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1, depending on rebates.
Now for the tranny and diff, I like to use the boutiques simply because they last so much longer than engine oil.
Now for the tranny and diff, I like to use the boutiques simply because they last so much longer than engine oil.
Lately its been conventional Sams Club "Certified" brand (Warren) in both cars, just finished up 2 cases and will pick up more if still the right price.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Red Line because I do 10K OCI's, M1 oil filter every other oil change, with desert driving and trailer pulling. I get excellent UOA's.
I get a good price on all Red Line products because I purchase it in bulk from a distributor. I pay about 10% more for 0w-30 Red Line engine oil than the cost of Mobil 1 at Costco and I don't pay the recycle/disposal fee.
I also pay a bit more for Mobil 1 oil filters but only change them every other oil change. That makes the price cheaper than most other filters done every oil change.
Some people tell me I'm stupid for using a boutique racing oil, that I pay too much and get nothing in return. I've been told my engine will be done in less than 100K miles and that I should change my oil every 3K miles. The results from UOA's show that this scheme works, really well.
LINK
I should put Redline on my list of oils to test. 1ppm in 10k miles....
The 2UZ-FE Toyota 4.7L V8 is part of the good performance, too. It's a really good engine for reliability and service life but not so good at gas mileage. As I understand from a Toyota factory guy that engine was designed for reliability and long life in pickups, SUV's and other such vehicles for a worldwide market. This was before energy saving oils and mileage became more important.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Red Line because I do 10K OCI's, M1 oil filter every other oil change, with desert driving and trailer pulling. I get excellent UOA's.
I get a good price on all Red Line products because I purchase it in bulk from a distributor. I pay about 10% more for 0w-30 Red Line engine oil than the cost of Mobil 1 at Costco and I don't pay the recycle/disposal fee.
I also pay a bit more for Mobil 1 oil filters but only change them every other oil change. That makes the price cheaper than most other filters done every oil change.
Some people tell me I'm stupid for using a boutique racing oil, that I pay too much and get nothing in return. I've been told my engine will be done in less than 100K miles and that I should change my oil every 3K miles. The results from UOA's show that this scheme works, really well.
LINK
I should put Redline on my list of oils to test. 1ppm in 10k miles....
The 2UZ-FE Toyota 4.7L V8 is part of the good performance, too. It's a really good engine for reliability and service life but not so good at gas mileage. As I understand from a Toyota factory guy that engine was designed for reliability and long life in pickups, SUV's and other such vehicles for a worldwide market. This was before energy saving oils and mileage became more important.
Pennzoil PUPP & PPHM for the ACURA.
Pennzoil HM for the Ram moving forward.
Castrol Edge for the Jetta.
Although, im sure I could get away with running "anything SN" in the Acura & Ram with required weights from manufacturer.
Pennzoil HM for the Ram moving forward.
Castrol Edge for the Jetta.
Although, im sure I could get away with running "anything SN" in the Acura & Ram with required weights from manufacturer.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
