- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
I want one of these. It's similar to what I have now:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b3d078187da492d1cda8161f93809cd4
http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b3d078187da492d1cda8161f93809cd4
Which sub do you have in HT system?
- Thread starter grampi
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
I like the rythmic driver. Years ago I purchased one and built my own enclosure. They sell them complete now
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html
I prefer sealed subs but for HT ported might give you better slam.
They've got a couple of 15" models that look pretty bad a$$! They're a little pricier though...
I like the rythmic driver. Years ago I purchased one and built my own enclosure. They sell them complete now
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html
I prefer sealed subs but for HT ported might give you better slam.
They've got a couple of 15" models that look pretty bad a$$! They're a little pricier though...
Originally Posted By: Gillsy
I have a Velodyne SPL 1000. 10" acoustic suspension w 750 watts rms/1500 dynamic. I think a bass reflex enclosure does a better job of "exciting" a room, but acoustic suspension is faster, and sounds more like music vs low frequency noise. I have had this for better than 20 years. I would not hesitate to replace it with another tomorrow. FYI, I have a HSU (shoe) center channel, and I am very happy with it.
I've heard the Velodynes are real nice, but to be honest, I haven't even looked at them because I assumed they'd be out of my price range...maybe I should look...
I have a Velodyne SPL 1000. 10" acoustic suspension w 750 watts rms/1500 dynamic. I think a bass reflex enclosure does a better job of "exciting" a room, but acoustic suspension is faster, and sounds more like music vs low frequency noise. I have had this for better than 20 years. I would not hesitate to replace it with another tomorrow. FYI, I have a HSU (shoe) center channel, and I am very happy with it.
I've heard the Velodynes are real nice, but to be honest, I haven't even looked at them because I assumed they'd be out of my price range...maybe I should look...
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I want one of these. It's similar to what I have now:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b3d078187da492d1cda8161f93809cd4
I'm thinkin this may be too much for my living room
I want one of these. It's similar to what I have now:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b3d078187da492d1cda8161f93809cd4
I'm thinkin this may be too much for my living room
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
I like the rythmic driver. Years ago I purchased one and built my own enclosure. They sell them complete now
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html
I prefer sealed subs but for HT ported might give you better slam.
They've got a couple of 15" models that look pretty bad a$$! They're a little pricier though...
I would also look hard at the Rythmik. Beer Can knows what he's talking about if went with SVS I'd look at a PB2000 but would want a ultra 13 at the end 1000 bucks on a good sub is just scratching the surface.
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
I like the rythmic driver. Years ago I purchased one and built my own enclosure. They sell them complete now
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html
I prefer sealed subs but for HT ported might give you better slam.
They've got a couple of 15" models that look pretty bad a$$! They're a little pricier though...
I would also look hard at the Rythmik. Beer Can knows what he's talking about if went with SVS I'd look at a PB2000 but would want a ultra 13 at the end 1000 bucks on a good sub is just scratching the surface.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: dave123
Under a grand SVS
Any particular model?
If you like sealed and have a large room to cover, you could consider dual SB-1000 subs. However, it would probably take a lot of experimentation to get them placed in a way that they complement each other and not cancel each other out. Sometimes it's tricky, although with sealed units it should be easier
https://www.svsound.com/products/dual-sb-1000
Originally Posted By: dave123
Under a grand SVS
Any particular model?
If you like sealed and have a large room to cover, you could consider dual SB-1000 subs. However, it would probably take a lot of experimentation to get them placed in a way that they complement each other and not cancel each other out. Sometimes it's tricky, although with sealed units it should be easier
https://www.svsound.com/products/dual-sb-1000
From an acoustics and THD standpoint, it makes better sense to use two or three smaller subs to more equally load the room, than one single large one. As excursion increases, so does THD and not usually linearly. Large dia, low THD woofers are expensive.
To produce deep accurate bass, cone area rules. Area is proportional to the square of the radius. The tough part is finding a good cone that won't come apart and ripple when pushed.
Further, when dealing with such long wavelengths, placement is everything. So is tuning. It's very, very tricky to do this correctly. Active equalization and filtering is required to do it right. Makes all the difference in the world though.
When everything is dialed in deep, low-THD bass sounds very transparent. At any volume level. The sound and feeling is effortless and substantial. It doesn't add anything that isn't there already; It just brings it forward. All of the higher octaves sit upon this foundation.
In an automotive analogy, it would be a perfectly balanced, blueprinted engine with vanishingly small tolerances. Everything machined, measured, balanced and dialed-in. Everything.
The problem with many consumer subwoofers is they are mis-aligned internally, the woofers used are rather cheap thus THD is already high before the volume is turned up and their cabinets exhibit too much flexure.
If you'd like to read up on this in more detail, go to Sigfried Linkwitz' site and read his notes and methodology on the Thor Subwoofer. To have a great SW, you need to start with an excellent driver...and he does. It also needs to be actively filtered. He does that too.
More good reading can be found at North Creek Music
Regarding HSU, in decades past they had an excellent reputation with lots of pleased customers. Not sure if the original designer/owner is still with them or not.
To produce deep accurate bass, cone area rules. Area is proportional to the square of the radius. The tough part is finding a good cone that won't come apart and ripple when pushed.
Further, when dealing with such long wavelengths, placement is everything. So is tuning. It's very, very tricky to do this correctly. Active equalization and filtering is required to do it right. Makes all the difference in the world though.
When everything is dialed in deep, low-THD bass sounds very transparent. At any volume level. The sound and feeling is effortless and substantial. It doesn't add anything that isn't there already; It just brings it forward. All of the higher octaves sit upon this foundation.
In an automotive analogy, it would be a perfectly balanced, blueprinted engine with vanishingly small tolerances. Everything machined, measured, balanced and dialed-in. Everything.
The problem with many consumer subwoofers is they are mis-aligned internally, the woofers used are rather cheap thus THD is already high before the volume is turned up and their cabinets exhibit too much flexure.
If you'd like to read up on this in more detail, go to Sigfried Linkwitz' site and read his notes and methodology on the Thor Subwoofer. To have a great SW, you need to start with an excellent driver...and he does. It also needs to be actively filtered. He does that too.
More good reading can be found at North Creek Music
Regarding HSU, in decades past they had an excellent reputation with lots of pleased customers. Not sure if the original designer/owner is still with them or not.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
From an acoustics and THD standpoint, it makes better sense to use two or three smaller subs to more equally load the room, than one single large one. As excursion increases, so does THD and not usually linearly. Large dia, low THD woofers are expensive.
To produce deep accurate bass, cone area rules. Area is proportional to the square of the radius. The tough part is finding a good cone that won't come apart and ripple when pushed.
Further, when dealing with such long wavelengths, placement is everything. So is tuning. It's very, very tricky to do this correctly. Active equalization and filtering is required to do it right. Makes all the difference in the world though.
When everything is dialed in deep, low-THD bass sounds very transparent. At any volume level. The sound and feeling is effortless and substantial. It doesn't add anything that isn't there already; It just brings it forward. All of the higher octaves sit upon this foundation.
In an automotive analogy, it would be a perfectly balanced, blueprinted engine with vanishingly small tolerances. Everything machined, measured, balanced and dialed-in. Everything.
The problem with many consumer subwoofers is they are mis-aligned internally, the woofers used are rather cheap thus THD is already high before the volume is turned up and their cabinets exhibit too much flexure.
If you'd like to read up on this in more detail, go to Sigfried Linkwitz' site and read his notes and methodology on the Thor Subwoofer. To have a great SW, you need to start with an excellent driver...and he does. It also needs to be actively filtered. He does that too.
More good reading can be found at North Creek Music
Regarding HSU, in decades past they had an excellent reputation with lots of pleased customers. Not sure if the original designer/owner is still with them or not.
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...one large one will have to do...
From an acoustics and THD standpoint, it makes better sense to use two or three smaller subs to more equally load the room, than one single large one. As excursion increases, so does THD and not usually linearly. Large dia, low THD woofers are expensive.
To produce deep accurate bass, cone area rules. Area is proportional to the square of the radius. The tough part is finding a good cone that won't come apart and ripple when pushed.
Further, when dealing with such long wavelengths, placement is everything. So is tuning. It's very, very tricky to do this correctly. Active equalization and filtering is required to do it right. Makes all the difference in the world though.
When everything is dialed in deep, low-THD bass sounds very transparent. At any volume level. The sound and feeling is effortless and substantial. It doesn't add anything that isn't there already; It just brings it forward. All of the higher octaves sit upon this foundation.
In an automotive analogy, it would be a perfectly balanced, blueprinted engine with vanishingly small tolerances. Everything machined, measured, balanced and dialed-in. Everything.
The problem with many consumer subwoofers is they are mis-aligned internally, the woofers used are rather cheap thus THD is already high before the volume is turned up and their cabinets exhibit too much flexure.
If you'd like to read up on this in more detail, go to Sigfried Linkwitz' site and read his notes and methodology on the Thor Subwoofer. To have a great SW, you need to start with an excellent driver...and he does. It also needs to be actively filtered. He does that too.
More good reading can be found at North Creek Music
Regarding HSU, in decades past they had an excellent reputation with lots of pleased customers. Not sure if the original designer/owner is still with them or not.
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...one large one will have to do...
It's too bad I couldn't bring all of these units into my living room and listen to them all....that's the only true way of finding the one that works best for me....I can't even go listen to them in a show room, I have to rely on reviews and recommendations to choose one...hopefully I won't be disappointed with the one I end up choosing...I do appreciated all of the input though!
Originally Posted By: grampi
It's too bad I couldn't bring all of these units into my living room and listen to them all....that's the only true way of finding the one that works best for me....I can't even go listen to them in a show room, I have to rely on reviews and recommendations to choose one...hopefully I won't be disappointed with the one I end up choosing...I do appreciated all of the input though!
Many mfg and dealers have 30 day or more in home trial. I for one would only look at one that did.
It's too bad I couldn't bring all of these units into my living room and listen to them all....that's the only true way of finding the one that works best for me....I can't even go listen to them in a show room, I have to rely on reviews and recommendations to choose one...hopefully I won't be disappointed with the one I end up choosing...I do appreciated all of the input though!
Many mfg and dealers have 30 day or more in home trial. I for one would only look at one that did.
Last edited:
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
Originally Posted By: grampi
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...one large one will have to do...
Then instead of buying a "monster", you buy a smaller quality one with an eye towards the future of buying a second when the budget allows. Further, smaller subs are easier to properly locate and take up less room. Heck, in your neck of the woods, you can even install them in the basement!
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...one large one will have to do...
Then instead of buying a "monster", you buy a smaller quality one with an eye towards the future of buying a second when the budget allows. Further, smaller subs are easier to properly locate and take up less room. Heck, in your neck of the woods, you can even install them in the basement!
Originally Posted By: grampi
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...
The two SVS subs I linked to are still within your budget. You get two high quality 12" sealed subs with 300W RMS amp each.
If you can stretch your budget a bit past $1K, you can get the dual SB-2000 which have 500W RMS amps.
Multiple subs might be better, but I don't have the budget for them...
The two SVS subs I linked to are still within your budget. You get two high quality 12" sealed subs with 300W RMS amp each.
If you can stretch your budget a bit past $1K, you can get the dual SB-2000 which have 500W RMS amps.
Originally Posted By: grampi
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
As with most things expecially audio garbage in is garbage out.
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
As with most things expecially audio garbage in is garbage out.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: grampi
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
As with most things expecially audio garbage in is garbage out.
Not quite sure what you mean by that...
Originally Posted By: grampi
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
As with most things expecially audio garbage in is garbage out.
Not quite sure what you mean by that...
Originally Posted By: grampi
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
More info please!
Sounds like a mis-alignment problem. More power won't solve that.
Quoting a Watt spec is meaningless without both IMD & THD at rated power, RMS. Just how clean is that 1kW plate amp and what load is it driving? A resistor?
GIGO indeed.....
I think I'm gonna give my home made sub another try....I just don't think the amp I used for it was powerful enough...the Adire Tempest is a beast of a sub (will handle 750 WRMS), and I've heard it in other enclosures and it hammered hard, but I'm sure it had a lot more than 250 watts...Parts Express has a 1000 watt plate amp for a little over $200...if it still sucks, then I guess I'll look into buying one of the units discussed in this thread...
More info please!
Sounds like a mis-alignment problem. More power won't solve that.
Quoting a Watt spec is meaningless without both IMD & THD at rated power, RMS. Just how clean is that 1kW plate amp and what load is it driving? A resistor?
GIGO indeed.....
When I was still in the AF, I made my own sealed enclosure using a cheap MTX car audio 15" driver, and a cheap PE 250 watt plate amp. Considering I was using cheap components, and though it was no reference unit by any stretch, it performed surprisingly well. It was made of MDF, which I spray painted flat black...it was an eyesore. So I decided I wanted to make an enclosure that looked like furniture, and I upgraded the driver to a Tempest, while using the same amp in a larger sealed enclosure. We moved before I got to play this sub, and the house we bought here has double the living room area. The output isn't as good as the previous one, and it's real boomy. And then one day the amp just quit working, so I was never able to play with it enough to get it sounding like I want it to, but I do think the Tempest needs more than 250 watts...oh, and it's corner loaded in the living room...and the amp is playing into both 8 ohm VCs paralleled for a 4 ohm load...
Last edited:
This has the amp specs for the 250 watt amp;
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa250-250-watt-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-803
Here's the specs for the 1000 watt amp;
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa1000-1000w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-809
And here are the specs for the Tempest sub;
http://bgavinsound.com/Reference/Music/Adire/Tempest Datasheet.pdf
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa250-250-watt-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-803
Here's the specs for the 1000 watt amp;
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa1000-1000w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-809
And here are the specs for the Tempest sub;
http://bgavinsound.com/Reference/Music/Adire/Tempest Datasheet.pdf
Quote:
Specifications:
•Rated power output: 497 watts into 8 ohms, 950 watts into 4 ohms with 0.92% THD (based on one-third power duty cycle)
What the heck is that? How does that compare to RMS?
Specifications:
•Rated power output: 497 watts into 8 ohms, 950 watts into 4 ohms with 0.92% THD (based on one-third power duty cycle)
What the heck is that? How does that compare to RMS?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Quote:
Specifications:
•Rated power output: 497 watts into 8 ohms, 950 watts into 4 ohms with 0.92% THD (based on one-third power duty cycle)
What the heck is that? How does that compare to RMS?
Got me, I was hoping someone else would know...I've never seen that term used before...
Quote:
Specifications:
•Rated power output: 497 watts into 8 ohms, 950 watts into 4 ohms with 0.92% THD (based on one-third power duty cycle)
What the heck is that? How does that compare to RMS?
Got me, I was hoping someone else would know...I've never seen that term used before...
- Status