4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Welcome 2024 member … we run Mobil 1 5W30 in the Lexus in signature - spec is 0W20 …
Haha this may be true. I used penn plat on my 2009 nissan altima (bought that brand new) and it got 195k miles before trans caused issued. OCI was 3750 but i probably stretched it to 5k to 6k in most cases. While i mag get bored of a car i dont get bored of no car payment haha. I guess i should just stick with what has worked for me in the pastYes, you are. You will probably get bored of the car long before the engine wears out. No manufacturer is perfect but Toyota/Lexus are on average among the longest lasting.
I did that (stock up on rebstes) with the Penn Platinum i ran in my Altima. What additive package do yoy use with Penn Ultra Platinum? Be curious to hear more on thisMobil 1 formulations have changed, not saying better or worse. TGMO has a strong additive package with a lot of dinuclear moly but I quit using it when found the base oil inferior to GTL base. Now use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with a strong additive package and GTL. Definately wait for the rebate to stock up.
I would recommend 0W-30 as well after the warranty or infant mortality period depending on your comfort level.2024 rx 350 turbo
So i am in quite a bind here. I have a flaw where I research things to the point where it makes it difficult to conclude on the actual product to purchase (in this case Oil)
I would recommend 0W-30 as well after the warranty or infant mortality period depending on your comfort level
You sir, are far too reasonable with that post.I dont think I need an HPL (or want to pay for that). I think store bought oils will be sufficient. I used to wait until pennzoil or M1 ran a rebate (usually pennzoil) and stocked up then.
Or buy something that's ALMOST as good for 40% of the cost. He's going to run short intervals. The only reasons to run HPL or other boutiques are severe duty or exceedingly long intervals.Just get HPL and be done with overthinking it.
Nobody knows why PUP doesn't have the certification. Could be that they just didn't want to pay for the testing and license, or it could be that there's a requirement that it wouldn't meet.See i was really confused about the penn plat vs ultra plat. I know the ultra plat isnt dexos but should be better than plat?
They're referring to the additive package that's already in PUP. It's got a bit more detergent and moly, and some borate ester, which is a detergent and friction modifier. More additive isn't always better, but I'd say the PUP is probably better suited for longer OCIs.What additive package do yoy use with Penn Ultra Platinum? Be curious to hear more on this
The recommended grade is a trade off between fuel efficiency and high temperature/high load engine protection. Some owners prioritize those things differently than the manufacturer. A thicker grade won't protect any better unless oil temperatures are very high, so for your average driver there is no benefit, but in a racing or towing application, or in a hot climate, a thicker grade of oil might reduce wear.I will certainly look into this more. I guess my initial thought is why they wouldnt recommend this to begin with but perhaps its my ignorance on oil weights and viscosity kicking in
Haha this might be it to a T. I am looking for "the best" (within reason) and the decision was really stressing me out. The choices vs happiness chart one poster mentioned really explains it. Sounds like Ill stick to PUP or M1 and call it a day. Its worked in my Nissan and my Honda so it should be good enough here.You sir, are far too reasonable with that post.
There is a place for that outstanding HPL product, but Cap'n Penz and Admiral Mobil have you MORE than covered.
See, you aren't really in a bind at all. You just got caught up in the "bitogisteria" but you followed the light back to sanity.
EDIT: I'm kinda in the camp that 30 grade oils are a ticky tick better than 20s. I'm not a thickie, but sometimes thicker really is better. If you get on it and play a little at high revs, go up a grade to 5/30
Yes you are. A vast amount of information here is personal experience and not based on anything but a anecdotal fallacy. Just use what multi grade oil is recommended in your owners manual and you are good to go.Owners manual just says GF6A. I guess I am overthinking it
I did find a document under PUP specifications previously stating that it does meet Dexos1 compliancy.Thats good enough for me, I run 5w30 in my newer Chevy’s. Im not a fan of M1. GM tries to push it on new auto customers.Nobody knows why PUP doesn't have the certification. Could be that they just didn't want to pay for the testing and license, or it could be that there's a requirement that it wouldn't meet.
They're referring to the additive package that's already in PUP. It's got a bit more detergent and moly, and some borate ester, which is a detergent and friction modifier. More additive isn't always better, but I'd say the PUP is probably better suited for longer OCIs.
The recommended grade is a trade off between fuel efficiency and high temperature/high load engine protection. Some owners prioritize those things differently than the manufacturer. A thicker grade won't protect any better unless oil temperatures are very high, so for your average driver there is no benefit, but in a racing or towing application, or in a hot climate, a thicker grade of oil might reduce wear.