Use some Ceratec. Apparently it's saved some engines which went completely dry.
which oil leaves a longer lasting film?
- Thread starter old1
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Originally Posted By: old1
On my classic cars that sit for long periods between uses quite often, does conventional or synthetic leave a longer lasting film for restarting. Or doesn't it matter in the least.
In classic cars I would use an oil with a high x in xW-y, such as 10W-, 15W-, or 20W-, meaning a thick base oil, and a high moly and ZDDP content. This assures best wear protection in classic cars where valvetrain stresses can be unforgiving. Conventional vs. synthetic is probably secondary.
On my classic cars that sit for long periods between uses quite often, does conventional or synthetic leave a longer lasting film for restarting. Or doesn't it matter in the least.
In classic cars I would use an oil with a high x in xW-y, such as 10W-, 15W-, or 20W-, meaning a thick base oil, and a high moly and ZDDP content. This assures best wear protection in classic cars where valvetrain stresses can be unforgiving. Conventional vs. synthetic is probably secondary.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: old1
On my classic cars that sit for long periods between uses quite often, does conventional or synthetic leave a longer lasting film for restarting. Or doesn't it matter in the least.
In classic cars I would use an oil with a high x in xW-y, such as 10W-, 15W-, or 20W-, meaning a thick base oil, and a high moly and ZDDP content. This assures best wear protection in classic cars where valvetrain stresses can be unforgiving. Conventional vs. synthetic is probably secondary.
A very good oil for classic cars is Mobil 1 15W-50 -- thick base oil and 1200 ppm phosphorous -- if your car is garaged in severe cold. Mobil 1 oil guide (link) specifically lists it for flat tappets.
You can also use a 10W-40 or 20W-50. 10W-30 is probably fine too but don't use 5W-30, as the base oil is too thin for flat tappets.
Originally Posted By: old1
On my classic cars that sit for long periods between uses quite often, does conventional or synthetic leave a longer lasting film for restarting. Or doesn't it matter in the least.
In classic cars I would use an oil with a high x in xW-y, such as 10W-, 15W-, or 20W-, meaning a thick base oil, and a high moly and ZDDP content. This assures best wear protection in classic cars where valvetrain stresses can be unforgiving. Conventional vs. synthetic is probably secondary.
A very good oil for classic cars is Mobil 1 15W-50 -- thick base oil and 1200 ppm phosphorous -- if your car is garaged in severe cold. Mobil 1 oil guide (link) specifically lists it for flat tappets.
You can also use a 10W-40 or 20W-50. 10W-30 is probably fine too but don't use 5W-30, as the base oil is too thin for flat tappets.
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