What oil "clings" best to an infrequently run engine?

Z

Zack1978

Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
214
Location
NJ
Hi everyone,
As the title indicates, what is the best oil to use that would cling to engine internals on an engine that sits outside and isn't run frequently? The engine in question is a Toyota 20R that is in my plow truck (that no longer plows). The truck sits for relatively long periods of time without running.
I would like to use a an oil that leaves a "coating" on the cylinder walls to prevent rust from forming, etc.
Is there a specific oil that comes to mind that would meet my needs? I can care less about the cost of the oil since its only five quarts and I don't change it frequently. I think the truck currently has 10w30 or 40 SuperTech syn oil with a Mobil 1 oil filter.


Thank you
 
Zack1978 said:
Hi everyone,
As the title indicates, what is the best oil to use that would cling to engine internals on an engine that sits outside and isn't run frequently? The engine in question is a Toyota 20R that is in my plow truck (that no longer plows). The truck sits for relatively long periods of time without running.
I would like to use a an oil that leaves a "coating" on the cylinder walls to prevent rust from forming, etc.
Is there a specific oil that comes to mind that would meet my needs? I can care less about the cost of the oil since its only five quarts and I don't change it frequently. I think the truck currently has 10w30 or 40 SuperTech syn oil with a Mobil 1 oil filter.


Thank you
Click to expand...
There is no difference in decent oils in their ability to negate the ill effects of a car sitting unused for extended periods. There are some approaches to preparing engines in cars that you know will be sitting for a long time, mostly involving adding lubricants to the cylinders directly and stabilizer to the fuel. The oil filters does not matter much either. Still, I will play along and give my standard answer of Quaker State Full Synthetic, bought for less than $23/jug from Amazon or Walmart in the weight you choose. Supertech, Fram or other decent brand on filter. I think on a vehicle that is older and has been used for plowing, there are other possible sources of engine damage than dry "ish" startups.
 
Usually thicker oil leaves a thicker coating in the interior but even a thin coating from a 30 should be enough. It never "dries" to nothing. There will always be some oil and if you're still starting it maybe once a month it should get recoated. I'd say 20w-50. If it ever has to start in the cold plug the block heater in but I'd say there's an argument for just using a thinner oil and let it idle more frequently like twice a month.
 
Heavier grades obviously flow slower off a part, cold or hot, when you stop an engine. Of the oils I deal with, Rotella t4 15W40 coats the inside of a container, with the thickest layer of oil, cold or warm when draining. That is compared to 0W30 PP euro lx and other synthetic 5W30, 0W30, that I use. I get the impression that the cheapest pennzoil 5W30, coats the inside of a container thicker than 5W30 synthetic when cold and new, but I've never really made a careful observation.
I think the fact the tribologists don't seem to worry about the clingyness factor might mean it doesn't matter much?
I think if you make sure always run it until all the moisture is out of the exhaust, and make sure water isn't getting into the intake or exhaust, it should be good to sit for a couple months at a time. If its easy to pop the top of the air cleaner or vacuum like, just spray some fogging oil in before shutting down?
 
Not something to worry much about. Some posters stated they tore into a sittting 40+ year old engine and it was still wet inside.
Months or even a few years are nothing. I have stored vehicles multiple times before without issue. Fuel is by far the greater concern.
A thicker oil would hedge your bet, so use that if you have more comfort with it.
Who knows, maybe a 0-16 or 0-20 would not hold up as well. Its plausible, it didin't exist 40 years ago, so no track record.
 
What you want to do is add an Engine Treatment.
This below is the most slippery oil (in my opinion) that can be added to your engine oil.
Schaeffer Moly EP.
Google It.

PM Member Pablo and I'm sure he will recommend another from the Amsoil lineup.
 
In the marine world, they use whats called "Fogging oil". With the engine running, you spray this oil into the intake until it smokes up a storm. About a 1/2 a can will normally do the trick. This oil clings to the valves and cylinder walls. It's purpose is for long term storage. I've seen an engine started that had set outdors for 10 years, that had been fogged properly. It smoked for a few minutes,than cleared up and ran fine. It's sold in Marine store like West Marine.,,
 
Amsoil Z Rod.

Formulated with a unique blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors to ensure maximum protection during long-term storage.
Prevented rust and corrosion in industry standard testing (ASTM D1748-10) for excellent engine protection.
 
Just install one of these in the driveway. Put it on shake mode.

IMG_1054.webp
 
Zack1978 said:
Hi everyone,
As the title indicates, what is the best oil to use that would cling to engine internals on an engine that sits outside and isn't run frequently? The engine in question is a Toyota 20R that is in my plow truck (that no longer plows). The truck sits for relatively long periods of time without running.
I would like to use a an oil that leaves a "coating" on the cylinder walls to prevent rust from forming, etc.
Is there a specific oil that comes to mind that would meet my needs? I can care less about the cost of the oil since its only five quarts and I don't change it frequently. I think the truck currently has 10w30 or 40 SuperTech syn oil with a Mobil 1 oil filter.


Thank you
Click to expand...



Definitely give Triax lubricants a try they have the additives needed to cling in your engine. 👦👦
 
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