Which oil high miles '99 Ford Ranger?

[blufeb95]

Yep, transmission fluid has a fraction of the detergents that motor oil does. It won't hurt anything being in the sump for a few minutes, but it's a waste of $.

Engine oil flush treatments.

Hi Gents Did a search but found nothing much, so sincere apologies if this is 'old ground'. Engine oil, pre change flush chemicals such as, https://products.liqui-moly.com/engine-flush-plus-3.html, for example. They use words and phrases like 'removes troublesome deposits', 'sludge' and...

bobistheoilguy.com

Originally Posted by Danr42

I've been told by old mechanics to add a quart of ATF 10-15 miles before an oil change. I've done it to flush engines before with relatively new oil still light brown and after 10 miles with ATF it is black.

As others have stated ATF is not a proper flush and has little detergency:

Originally Posted by MolaKule

I guess some people don't read other threads on this topic but here goes (Ron Ananian not withstanding): First of all, I think we can agree that ATF is a "thin" fluid. Thin fluids are better able to flush dirt and sludge. In addition back then, ATF's had high values of detergency, and in many cases, more than motor oils. BTW, detergency does not mean it has to have high calcium, sodium, magnesium or whatever values. Detergency can mean it has solvency from other compounds. For example, Pennzoil uses PEG's for dirt and sludge precursor solvency. In the earlier days, ATF's such as Type A had a percentage of Naphthenic base oil, with a bit of sperm whale oil (a naturally occuring ester used for friction modification) and mostly mineral oil. Now both Naphthenic base oils and the sperm whale oils have solvent action. Today, motor oils have more detergency than ATF's, because ATF's are mostly non-polar GroupIII and PAO, with a smidgeon of "not-so-solvent" POE's. About the only detergent/dispersant one sees today in ATF's are the multi-functional calcium additives at about 150 ppm, which is 20 times lower than what you see in motor oils. Those multi-functional calcium additives also act as rust preventers. In addition, most ATF's have only about 300 PPM of phos AW additives. Engine oils have about 2.5 times that amount. My advice is if you have an indication of sludging, use something like ProTec or Rislone Engine Treatment and use it as a FLUSH. A FLUSH is a batch of solvent chemicals added to the oil such that the engine is brought up to operating temperature at idle and then the whole schmear is thoroughly drained, with new oil and filter added afterwords. Do not drive with a Flush.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

Yeah, I won't be using ATF so let's set that aside. Dead issue.

A flush, maybe.

 

[Accent Abuser]

Also, I'd say no on the engine flush.
If you think that the engine is that dirty, go with a couple of short (3K or less) OCI's to flush out any gunk.

Seafoam probably won't hurt either.

 

[ka9mnx]

Any of your listed oils would work fine. My choice would be SuperTech synthetic but I'm biased. Don't bother with a HM oil unless you discover you have a problem. Two two my vehicles are over 250k miles and they don't need HM oil.

 

[tblt44]

I'm running quaker state full syn high milage now. Have ran valvoline, mobil and supertech hm full syn.
No real differences

 

[NitroM3]

I would completely ignore this recommendation. Jesus, 1970 called and wants its recommendations back!

Yep, transmission fluid has a fraction of the detergents that motor oil does. It won't hurt anything being in the sump for a few minutes, but it's a waste of $.

Gathermewool First your response does not even answer the question from the op? hmm There is a name for that on most forums! I am not sure if you are just being funny or just another keyboard warrior that does not know real world information or experience.
Oh and BTW I looked after your response on this forum and found sever dozen refence to using what I posted? Go figure and with your forum count of 8,986 and never read any of that before? Jesus, called and wants to help with some members researching abilities.
My conclusion is that "YOU" personally have no real world experience to the information I posted I do on my engines? Please read my response to ripcord below. Keep i mind that the OP v-6 Ford engine has over 200,000 miles on it.

ripcord I will also say you did not answer the OP question? Why is that. Yet you respond to quickly dismiss my response? Never the less, last time I looked a quart of ATF none synthetic was between 2-4 bucks? I suppose to some that is expensive? haha! I would also do a little more research on the qualities of good old ATF as a cleaner. Your comment leads to believe to have never used it to clean greasy or oiled parts. For "sheeits" and giggles find one or your old engine parts or car parts covered in burn oil or grease and soak it in ATF. After oh say an hour take your garden hose and with just water pressure rinse it off.

Yet another thread I took interest and want to help an OP I am taking off my watch list. There seems to be a core group of members I am finding don't like new members playing in their sand box? LOL

 

[gathermewool]

It’s not that we don’t like you. We don’t like your outdated, worthless advice. I’d tell you To tour face, just like I’ve told numerous people over the years, usually at the base hobby shop, where young sailors are apt to put all sorts of junk in their sumps.

Why? Because they read it on the internet, posted by somebody like you. Unfortunately there are a bunch of somebody’ like you, so the myths keeps propagating For those LOOKING to prove themselves correct.

 

[blufeb95]

ripcord I will also say you did not answer the OP question? Why is that. Yet you respond to quickly dismiss my response? Never the less, last time I looked a quart of ATF none synthetic was between 2-4 bucks? I suppose to some that is expensive? haha! I would also do a little more research on the qualities of good old ATF as a cleaner. Your comment leads to believe to have never used it to clean greasy or oiled parts. For "sheeits" and giggles find one or your old engine parts or car parts covered in burn oil or grease and soak it in ATF. After oh say an hour take your garden hose and with just water pressure rinse it off.

Yet another thread I took interest and want to help an OP I am taking off my watch list. There seems to be a core group of members I am finding don't like new members playing in their sand box? LOL

Read where I quoted MolaKule above, MolaKule is a staff member of the forum and is a lubricant engineer, they gave a factual explanation of exactly why using modern ATF as a flush is bunk.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

Gathermewool First your response does not even answer the question from the op? hmm There is a name for that on most forums! I am not sure if you are just being funny or just another keyboard warrior that does not know real world information or experience.
Oh and BTW I looked after your response on this forum and found sever dozen refence to using what I posted? Go figure and with your forum count of 8,986 and never read any of that before? Jesus, called and wants to help with some members researching abilities.
My conclusion is that "YOU" personally have no real world experience to the information I posted I do on my engines? Please read my response to ripcord below. Keep i mind that the OP v-6 Ford engine has over 200,000 miles on it.

ripcord I will also say you did not answer the OP question? Why is that. Yet you respond to quickly dismiss my response? Never the less, last time I looked a quart of ATF none synthetic was between 2-4 bucks? I suppose to some that is expensive? haha! I would also do a little more research on the qualities of good old ATF as a cleaner. Your comment leads to believe to have never used it to clean greasy or oiled parts. For "sheeits" and giggles find one or your old engine parts or car parts covered in burn oil or grease and soak it in ATF. After oh say an hour take your garden hose and with just water pressure rinse it off.

Yet another thread I took interest and want to help an OP I am taking off my watch list. There seems to be a core group of members I am finding don't like new members playing in their sand box? LOL

I appreciate the assistance and advice, but I do believe it's just either outdated or there's simply better product for that $4. I don't think $4 is a lot of money to anyone. I think the point is $4 can buy a better designed product like a better oil or flush designed for the job. I strongly suspect that if ATF were the best engine flush, companies would already be marketing that. They are not. So to my way of thinking, the stuff that is marketed instead (Riselone, liquimoly, Motor Medic, etc.) probably have engineer teams that do testing and their formulas are superior to that ATF...

 

[NitroM3]

I appreciate the assistance and advice, but I do believe it's just either outdated or there's simply better product for that $4. I don't think $4 is a lot of money to anyone. I think the point is $4 can buy a better designed product like a better oil or flush designed for the job. I strongly suspect that if ATF were the best engine flush, companies would already be marketing that. They are not. So to my way of thinking, the stuff that is marketed instead (Riselone, liquimoly, Motor Medic, etc.) probably have engineer teams that do testing and their formulas are superior to that ATF...

I guess you don't do marketing? And apparently not a chemical or any other engineer? I don't think you are even in the market that has chemical products or you would have looked a few things up instead of posting the latest and old products line that indicated a product solely for engine flushing ?So you don't EVER use a products that does not have exactly the intend use even something that may not say "and can be used to flush an engine prior an oil filter service? LOL And I don't think you have been associated with the automotive industry in much if any capacity? And you really have no idea about my background either? No insult intended.

So basically you are going with the crowd responses of internet forum DIY experts. LOL
Typical on more threads than I can count

 

[NitroM3]

Read where I quoted MolaKule above, MolaKule is a staff member of the forum and is a lubricant engineer, they gave a factual explanation of exactly why using modern ATF as a flush is bunk.

So if I said I was an engineer then my response would have more value. LOL

Did you read carefully and slowly what I said and examples of how to test the cleaning capabilities of ATF. Your response from the other member only gave reference to the chemical makeup but no where did I read from him any hands on testing LOL

Did you not read or are you choosing only some thing I posted, where I said I had the oil tested. That the sump does drain cleaner and can be phiscally seen while draining it using methods posted on this thread?

Whatever.
Can teach old dogs new tricks and can't change the minds of DIY if they have the computer to find only the answers that support their responses. The hell with a few of us that have real world experience and are actually in the industry we are responding about. LOL
Some of you on this forum are worse then vehicle specific forum when it comes to helping each other?

Ever wonder why there are not more members that are highly experienced in the automotive industry participating on forums and helping members. LOL This thread is a good example why not!

 

[blufeb95]

You're doing the opposite of helping, you're recommending someone do something that has already been debunked, this is a forum where science takes merit, ATF is pretty much just really thin mineral oil with significantly less additives than motor oil, it's the same type of severely hydro processed oil in the motor oil, it's not a good solvent at all, the only reason the ATF flush ever worked in history is because oldschool atf had napthetic oil(like you'd find in Seafoam) and sperm whale oil which is an ester oil similar to the "Liquid Wax Ester" products marketed by Lubegard nowadays.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

I guess you don't do marketing? And apparently not a chemical or any other engineer? I don't think you are even in the market that has chemical products or you would have looked a few things up instead of posting the latest and old products line that indicated a product solely for engine flushing ?So you don't EVER use a products that does not have exactly the intend use even something that may not say "and can be used to flush an engine prior an oil filter service? LOL And I don't think you have been associated with the automotive industry in much if any capacity? And you really have no idea about my background either? No insult intended.

So basically you are going with the crowd responses of internet forum DIY experts. LOL
Typical on more threads than I can count

Look guy, I'm just here to get some competent relevant advice. Not be personally attacked or insulted or chastised. I'm 100% confident that if ATF was a incredible detergent cleaner safe for engines, companies would be marketing it and using it as such. I'm not an engineer, but I know a thing or two about marketing and capitalism. The fact that no relevant company does this, is the strongest evidence that your advice is not good. I can also spot bunk advice when it is dispensed. Many industries have "old wives tales" that are known to be bad information, but they continue to thrive with the internet. One has to weed thru debunked nonsense on the internet to get good relevant advice.

No, I don't tend to follow advice that would be costly if it does not work. I'm not pouring ATF into a valuable engine. It's that simple. Please stop derailing an otherwise useful thread with advice that practically nobody would follow. It might work. It might destroy my engine. Are you going to write me a $5000 check to replace my Ranger if it does not work?

 

[NitroM3]

You're doing the opposite of helping, you're recommending someone do something that has already been debunked, this is a forum where science takes merit, ATF is pretty much just really thin mineral oil with significantly less additives than motor oil, it's the same type of severely hydro processed oil in the motor oil, it's not a good solvent at all, the only reason the ATF flush ever worked in history is because oldschool atf had napthetic oil(like you'd find in Seafoam) and sperm whale oil which is an ester oil similar to the "Liquid Wax Ester" products marketed by Lubegard nowadays.

did you not read where I said go do a simple test cleaning a part? LOL

I love the words often from those that do not test them selves and rely on what other's who write well ... "debunked" and "old school" and yet not test and experiment themselves.
Once again I can see that you DID NOT READ exactly what I posted and are now blind to anything except your belief that what I said won't work? ROLMAO. WOW! Good solider!

 

[NitroM3]

Look guy, I'm just here to get some competent relevant advice. Not be personally attacked or insulted or chastised. I'm 100% confident that if ATF was a incredible detergent cleaner safe for engines, companies would be marketing it and using it as such. I'm not an engineer, but I know a thing or two about marketing and capitalism. The fact that no relevant company does this, is the strongest evidence that your advice is not good. I can also spot bunk advice when it is dispensed. Many industries have "old wives tales" that are known to be bad information, but they continue to thrive with the internet. One has to weed thru debunked nonsense on the internet to get good relevant advice.

No, I don't tend to follow advice that would be costly if it does not work. I'm not pouring ATF into a valuable engine. It's that simple. Please stop derailing an otherwise useful thread with advice that practically nobody would follow. It might work. It might destroy my engine. Are you going to write me a $5000 check to replace my Ranger if it does not work?

did you not read where I said go do a simple test cleaning a part? LOL
Look guy...I said clearly NO INSULT INTENED.. read my response! LOL

Maybe read this?

Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk

How to Get Good Car Repair Advice Automotive Forums Another source of information many people use on the internet are automotive forums. There are hundreds of forums dedicated to specific vehicle makes and models as well as more general automotive forums. Forums contain a wealth of...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[CharlesInCharge]

did you not read where I said go do a simple test cleaning a part? LOL

I love the words often from those that do not test them selves and rely on what other's who write well ... "debunked" and "old school" and yet not test and experiment themselves.
Once again I can see that you DID NOT READ exactly what I posted and are now blind to anything except your belief that what I said won't work? ROLMAO. WOW! Good solider!

I already know it's a good cleaner. I have a bottle of 50/50 motor oil and ATF mixed in the garage to clean metal parts and lubricate them. There is no debate that it's a good cleaner/lubricant for metal parts. I have cabinets full of chemicals that are good cleaners that also do not belong in engines - bleach, orange spray degreasers, lysol, amonia, etc. I'm not putting those in my engine, either.

I'm not putting hydraulic fluid in my engine. It's that simple. When Valvoline or Mobil1 come out with a ATF fluid that is a engine cleaner, let me know and I'll use it. Until then, I'm not putting ATF in my engine where it does not belong, was not designed, and it's the wrong type of fluid.

 

[MolaKule]

Did you read carefully and slowly what I said and examples of how to test the cleaning capabilities of ATF. Your response from the other member only gave reference to the chemical makeup but no where did I read from him any hands on testing LOL

When I was younger and totally unknowledgeable of lubricant chemistry I did use it because of an Old Man's Tale, and I found no real cleaning effects. I did find out it thinned the oil - and yes I am a gearhead as well.

So if I said I was an engineer then my response would have more value. LOL

Did you not read or are you choosing only some thing I posted, where I said I had the oil tested. That the sump does drain cleaner and can be phiscally seen while draining it using methods posted on this thread?

I don't think Universities generally turn out engineering graduates without teaching them how to write proper technical prose and spell correctly.

Whatever.
Can teach old dogs new tricks and can't change the minds of DIY if they have the computer to find only the answers that support their responses. The hell with a few of us that have real world experience and are actually in the industry we are responding about. LOL
Some of you on this forum are worse then vehicle specific forum when it comes to helping each other?

I find it interesting that you think you can predict and know what other people are thinking. Personally, I don't believe in Clairvoyants.

Ever wonder why there are not more members that are highly experienced in the automotive industry participating on forums and helping members. LOL This thread is a good example why not!

BITOG is the number one Automotive/Lubricant site because we have members who are experienced engine and transmission mechanics who have helped hundreds of other gearheads solve 'sticky' problems; no pun intended!

 

[ad244]

did you not read where I said go do a simple test cleaning a part? LOL
Look guy...I said clearly NO INSULT INTENED.. read my response! LOL

Maybe read this?

Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk

How to Get Good Car Repair Advice Automotive Forums Another source of information many people use on the internet are automotive forums. There are hundreds of forums dedicated to specific vehicle makes and models as well as more general automotive forums. Forums contain a wealth of...

bobistheoilguy.com

LOL

 

[andyd]

CinC Is it a 4,0? 4wd /bigcab/ wanna sell it?

 

[Johnmpb]

You will notice in my signature. 1998 Ford ranger. So I do have direct advise for your question and still have the Explorer. Oh and it is the original transmission so no it is not an Exploder. I just did all the factory mandatory updates and also a few other tricks to preserve. I have 233,000 miles on the original engine. I change the oil regularly at between 3-5,000 miles. I use the viscosity for the season. Summer is 10W40 either synthetic or none synthetic. I have had both analyzed with Blackstone Oil Labs and it makes no difference with or without synthetic. If the engine is still in good health why use expensive oil that likely will make no difference?
As for flushing your engine... What I do and I do not recomend or suggest this to anyone one. Most DIY would likely screw it up and claim I gave bad advise. So I am not saying anyone should do this and I would say DON"T ! LOL

ON MY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE before I change the oil I use a pint or quart (yup over fill the sump) of old fashion type F or dexron ATF (any automatic transmission fluid on sale as long as it is RED! it not about the color lol) or Marvel Mystery oil and let the engine idle for about 5-10 minutes and then drain while the fluid in still hot. Then when the oil is almost done dripping out of the pan I will spray a can of WD40 directly into the drain plug until the oil coming out is only the WD40.
This works well for me for decades!

Yes, because clearly, if everyone used wd40 to clean out their drain holes, their engines would last forever.

One star post