Which oil high miles '99 Ford Ranger?

[CharlesInCharge]

I recently got a '99 V6 Ford Ranger with over 200k miles. Service records are adequate, and the oil in it is a conventional and time for a change. In park or neutral it idles about 1000 rpms and quite smooth but in gear under load while stopped the rpms drop to about 700-800 and the idle shakes a little. It is definitely more rough. It also has a "hiss" (not quite a tick, more like a whoosh, whoosh, whoosh) that increases with rpms or speed. It doesn't sound metallic, more like rushing air. In my research it might be manifold related, exhaust, I'm just not sure.) I'm fixing to change the oil/filter. Any feedback on which would be a better choice? On hand, I have:
* Valvoline Syntech
* Pennzoil Platinum
* Kirkland
* Quaker State High Mileage
* Mobil1 High Mileage
* Chevron Supreme blend

I'm leaning toward using one of the High Mileage oils, which may condition any seals in this old gal. Also would you use an engine flush on this unknown truck?

 

[Tdbo]

On the four Rangers that I have owned, I have found the best results have been with a 5W30 dino or blend.
I would use the Chevron.
If you are experiencing usage, go with the QS High Mileage.

 

[Tdbo]

On the four Rangers that I have owned, I have found the best results have been with a 5W30 dino or blend.
I would use the Chevron.
If you are experiencing usage, go with the QS High Mileage.

Also, I'd say no on the engine flush.
If you think that the engine is that dirty, go with a couple of short (3K or less) OCI's to flush out any gunk.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Personally, I would skip the high mileage oil unless you are using it to address a leak. From experience, however, I would suggest a 5W-40 or 10W-40 HDEO, however.

 

[tig1]

My 1991 Ranger 3.0 had 354K when sold. It still ran great, never increased in oil consumption, and the valve covers were never removed. All my OCIs were 10K using M1 10-30.

 

[rob1715]

I'd skip the flush. As for the oils to choose off your list, I'd choose that one.

 

[Dogman]

Valvoline syntech

 

[addyguy]

Chevron. If it is the 4L engine, make sure it is at least a 30-weight. No 5W-20 for that engine.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

Chevron. If it is the 4L engine, make sure it is at least a 30-weight. No 5W-20 for that engine.

Yes, all listed oils are 5w30s for this application.

 

[barkingspider]

I don’t see an issue using an engine flush like 5 min motor medic, have used it with no issues. Then I would run full syn high mileage 10w30 with 5k OCI, from your list, the QS or M1

 

[Lubener]

Any of the oils you list would be fine. I would stick with a 5w-30. If I HAD to pick from your list for your old Ranger, I would go for the Quaker State or Chevron. Save the others for any newer vehicles you might have.

 

[blufeb95]

I'd use whatever is the cheapest and whatever oil you'd like to save the least for another vehicle, it's a pretty low output pushrod V6, any oil will do. Don't flush it, I would recommend against running any engine flush unless your motor seems screwed and it's a cheap fix that may buy some extra time on a complete s&*(box.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

I don’t see an issue using an engine flush like 5 min motor medic, have used it with no issues. Then I would run full syn high mileage 10w30 with 5k OCI, from your list, the QS or M1

I don't see the point in it in a well maintained engine. A good oil like Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 HM will clean up most deposits if there are any...

 

[FastLane]

I would pour some seafoam in the oil and drive it for a week. Dump the oil and put supertech synthetic 5w30 in her.

 

[ripcord]

There won't be a dimes worth of difference between any of those oils, IMHO. I would change it and focus on going through the rest of the rig - brakes, cooling, transmission, bearings, differentials fluid, etc.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

There won't be a dimes worth of difference between any of those oils, IMHO. I would change it and focus on going through the rest of the rig - brakes, cooling, transmission, bearings, differentials fluid, etc.

It's mechanically in great condition, other than some engine ticking (not chain related, I don't think...). But I just did the 1st tranny spill and fill, will be repeating 2-3x, dropping the pan and filter replacement soon, rear diff soon, etc. Just tackling the really quick wins right now and engine oil is a quicky.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

I would pour some seafoam in the oil and drive it for a week. Dump the oil and put supertech synthetic 5w30 in her.

Already did seafoam about 125 miles ago in the engine oil, and some cataclean in the gas tank. Good suggestion.

 

[NitroM3]

You will notice in my signature. 1998 Ford ranger. So I do have direct advise for your question and still have the Explorer. Oh and it is the original transmission so no it is not an Exploder. I just did all the factory mandatory updates and also a few other tricks to preserve. I have 233,000 miles on the original engine. I change the oil regularly at between 3-5,000 miles. I use the viscosity for the season. Summer is 10W40 either synthetic or none synthetic. I have had both analyzed with Blackstone Oil Labs and it makes no difference with or without synthetic. If the engine is still in good health why use expensive oil that likely will make no difference?
As for flushing your engine... What I do and I do not recomend or suggest this to anyone one. Most DIY would likely screw it up and claim I gave bad advise. So I am not saying anyone should do this and I would say DON"T ! LOL

ON MY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE before I change the oil I use a pint or quart (yup over fill the sump) of old fashion type F or dexron ATF (any automatic transmission fluid on sale as long as it is RED! it not about the color lol) or Marvel Mystery oil and let the engine idle for about 5-10 minutes and then drain while the fluid in still hot. Then when the oil is almost done dripping out of the pan I will spray a can of WD40 directly into the drain plug until the oil coming out is only the WD40.
This works well for me for decades!

 

[gathermewool]

You will notice in my signature. 1998 Ford ranger. So I do have direct advise for your question and still have the Explorer. Oh and it is the original transmission so no it is not an Exploder. I just did all the factory mandatory updates and also a few other tricks to preserve. I have 233,000 miles on the original engine. I change the oil regularly at between 3-5,000 miles. I use the viscosity for the season. Summer is 10W40 either synthetic or none synthetic. I have had both analyzed with Blackstone Oil Labs and it makes no difference with or without synthetic. If the engine is still in good health why use expensive oil that likely will make no difference?
As for flushing your engine... What I do and I do not recomend or suggest this to anyone one. Most DIY would likely screw it up and claim I gave bad advise. So I am not saying anyone should do this and I would say DON"T ! LOL

ON MY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE before I change the oil I use a pint or quart (yup over fill the sump) of old fashion type F or dexron ATF (any automatic transmission fluid on sale as long as it is RED! it not about the color lol) or Marvel Mystery oil and let the engine idle for about 5-10 minutes and then drain while the fluid in still hot. Then when the oil is almost done dripping out of the pan I will spray a can of WD40 directly into the drain plug until the oil coming out is only the WD40.
This works well for me for decades!

I would completely ignore this recommendation. Jesus, 1970 called and wants its recommendations back!

 

[ripcord]

Yep, transmission fluid has a fraction of the detergents that motor oil does. It won't hurt anything being in the sump for a few minutes, but it's a waste of $.