Which oil and filter for Mustang?

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Hey all,

I have a Mustang GT with a 302CID V8. It has about 190,080 miles on it. I have been using Fram filters and Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30. I have a slight oil leak, about 1 quart between changes of 3000-3500 miles. Which oil/filter combo would you suggest for me? I live in North Texas where it gets hot hot hot in the summer and is mild mild the rest of the year and sometimes cold in the winter. Lowest temp gets to around 10dF.

Thank you,
Brett

I want this car to last as long as possible.
 
Dido on the RXing almost 200k thats a bunch of miles. Are you the original owner?

As the the filter Wix Filter Part Number: 51516 or EaO15

As to your oil

Maxlife

Test |Maxlife SAE 10W-30
Vis @ 1000C (cSt)| 10.66
Vis @ 400C (cSt)| 70.4
Viscosity Index| 140
Spec Gravity @ 600 F| 0.8697
Density (lbs/gal)| 7.25
Total Base Number| 8
Flash Point COC (0C)| 216
Pour Point (0C) max| -33
CCS cP (0C)| 5700@-25C
MRV TP-1 cP (0C)| 17,000@-30C
Noack % off @ 2500C| Sulfated Ash| 0.8
Zinc/Phosphorus, wt%| 0.083/0.076
Calcium/Moly, wt.%| 0.254/0.03

AME 15w40

AME, Synthetic 15W-40
Vis @ 1000C (cSt)| 14.44
Vis @ 400C (cSt)| 89.65
Viscosity Index| 167
Spec Gravity @ 600 F| 0.8670
Density (lbs/gal)| 7.219
Total Base Number | 12
Flash Point COC (0C)| 453°F(234°C)
Pour Point (0C) max| -44°F(-42°C)

Dido on the Automatic Transmission maintainance.

patriot.gif
 
i would definitely upgrade to a better quality filter.

perhaps try the Auto-RX and stay with the 10w30 Maxlife. Seems to be working good so far.
 
Stick to your 10w30 and all you need to do is change to a better filter that is not a Fram.

Have you had it up on ramps to see where the leak is or are you assuming it is a leak seeing the oil goes missing?
 
Most likely the rear crank seal is leaking. Happens to all the 5.0s. I would not Rx that motor because the leak may get worse. As long as you keep clean oil in it leave it be. I would run a motorcraft FL1A Filter also. Stick with the 10/30.
 
Regarding the possible oil leak:
If it were a 1992 or earlier 5.0 High Output engine, then 3000 miles/quart of oil used would be excellent (since they have forged pistons with relatively loose clearances - typically 1500 miles/qt used in my experience). I don't know if the tighter fitting (but much weaker) hypereutectic piston equiped engines consume significantly less oil.
I am using Mobil 1 5W-40 which has greatly reduced consumption in my 89 HO; if cost is important, I'd second the use of Shell Rotella 5W-40 in the winter and Chevron Delo 15W-40 in the summer. Had good results with either in another 5.0
 
Definatley get rid of that fram filter, they are absolute s*it!!!!! Use a motorcraft filter! As for the oil, if it were me, i would switch to a semi-synthetic motor oil. Full synthetic might cause it to leak more.
 
I would do an oil test on the maxlife and stay with it if the numbers are good. I'd try RXing for the clean and rinse cycles to see if the leak
can be reduced or rings freed up. I like purolators oil filters for the same money or less. If you want to stay at the 3000 OIC I'd consider any of the high mileage 10-30 dino like castrol that are also on the thick side. Still great results. If the 1gt of add oil is consumption not a leak, I would switch to 5-40 Shell Rotella or look at other thicker oil results for your engine in the oil test section.
 
Does that take the fram ph8a? if so the motorcraft FL-1A is hard to beat. Losing the fram will be the single best lubrication upgrade you can do; everything afterwards is incrimental.

Oil, I wouldn't stress too much about, and would frankly run what 10w30's on sale. If the maxlife works for you stick with it. Maybe run a 15w40 like Delo or Rotella for the summer.

Spend time focusing on maintaining the automatic transmission, if you have one.
 
Hey there Mr. 94 GT, I have an 02 GT and use havoline 5w-20 and the motorcraft filter. No problems at all... I would recommend you try any 10w-30 (or whatever viscosity your manual states) + SM rated motor oil and especially a motorcraft filter to go with it. Take care
 
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posted 18 December, 2005 01:51
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Definatley get rid of that fram filter, they are absolute s*it!!!!! Use a motorcraft filter! As for the oil, if it were me, i would switch to a semi-synthetic motor oil. Full synthetic might cause it to leak more.
Max life is semi syn. 12-22% PAO. Stick with the MAX LIFE it is the best ashland product in the vavoline line. Also use a motorcraft or supertech filter. 10W-40 might be inline since you have a ton of miles.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I think when I got my clutch changed around 60k miles ago they put in a new rear main seal. One of the things I notice is if I drive the car at a higher RPM more often the I have to add more oil sooner. I haven't seen any blue smoke though. I had thought about Auto RX. I will read up on it. If someone could explain to me, as I am a oil amatuer what the practical differences are between 10w-30, 10w-40, and 15w-40?

The car has been in our family since 1996 when we got it with 40k miles on it. My brother who drove it first didn't take as good care of it as I do.

Thanks,
Brett
 
The diffrences in oil is the 10w means it has a 10 weight winter oil flow when cold and 30 or 40 weight when at opperating temp. Meaning Multi viscosity for the best flow protection at low and gets thicker as the engine heats up. The only reason I would even look at a 40 weight oil is only if the engine is using 1 qt every 1000 miles then I would use it to keep the consumtion down. You will loose fuel economy with the 40 wt oil because it is a thicker oil.
That was a good Idea to have the rear main seal replaced and maybe time for a new oil pan gasket as well as the valve cover gaskets.
With the miles on that engine I would just put in a basic high quality high mileage 10/30 like you have been running and change every 3k to keep the engine clean. Also fill the filter with oil since its so big before installing it. Those 5.0 motors are bullet proof and should last you many more years just needs more TLC as the miles get higher.
 
No, the 10w does not have ANYTHING to do with weight.

It is a winter flow rating scheme with no units, just the lower the number, the lower the temperature can drop before it solidifies.
 
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