Which is the best oil for my needs

[ediamiam]

Are you using a Fram filter? I've had the same no-so-good-to-the-ear sound also, but with Frams. Once I switched over to another brand, like a Purolator Plus, or a non-Fram manufacturer, the no-so-good-to-the-ear sound goes away. If you want to go cheap, the cheapest I've found is to buy Chevron Supreme by the case when Kragen has the rebate, that is $.49/qt, and buy the Purolator Premium at 2 fer $5.00 at PepBoys when they are on sale, or buy a ST from WalMart.

Longer and harder cranking is most likely not lube related.

 

[Willy_G]

I would go with one of the Phillips semi-syn 5 or 10w30 oils. Kendall, Motorcraft, Phillips 66, or Trop Artic...they are supposedly virtually identical with Trop Artic being a bargain if you can find it.

I would however cut the oil/filter changes to 5k, with any non-group IV oil though. Over 10k miles, you'd only be saving $10 or $15 switching to a 'conventional' oil, from M1.

If you are getting noise on start-up, the anti-drainback valve in the filter (if equiped) might not be up to the task. What brad filter are you using?

Maybe a better filter and M1 10w30 is all you need?

 

[vad]

quote:

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Originally posted by chiks:
I bought this car new in 1999 and it has been running on M1 5w-30 (syn) since the last 50,000 mi.and I have done oil changes every 10,000 miles.

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You're doing just fine. I suggest you run an oil analysis with TBN during the next oil change just to make sure.
I would stay with Mobil or switch to GC.
Your choice.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

You have it right. Mobil 1 and 10,000 changes in your engine is a piece of cake. Keep it up!

 

[chiks]

the last 2 times, I have used the ST filter from Walmart. For this weekend's oil changes I am going to use a Bosch premium.

btw, it does not lose any oil during the 10,000 miles. the oil level is always up to the mark, only the color changes.

 

[TallPaul]

Redline

 

[Quest]

If economy is a concern, here's how I would do it:

(a) perform an AutoRx and then

(b) go with 6K OCI with good quality dino oil of 5W30 weight (Havoline, Chevron, etc.) SM grade is better than SL, and also make sure that they are at GL-4 rating.

(c) add a bit of LC to each oil and oil change.

also replace your PCV valve with original factory unit (no aftermarkets please) once before you start your dino oil regime. You'll be alright afterwards.

 

[chiks]

Vague question. I know that.

What is the best oil for the features I am looking for:

1. No fear of sludge
2. minimal wear (easy cold startups, etc)
3. peace of mind in case I miss the regular oil change by a couple of thousand miles

the car in question is a '99 Mazda Protege 1.8L with 72000 miles.

 

[JonS]

In Texas i would use a Chevron/Havoline or Pennzoil 10w-30. No need for synthetic unless you want to go more than 5000 miles.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

quote:

---

Originally posted by chiks:
Vague question. I know that.
What is the best oil for the features I am looking for:

1. No fear of sludge
2. minimal wear (easy cold startups, etc)
3. peace of mind in case I miss the regular oil change by a couple of thousand miles

the car in question is a '99 Mazda Protege 1.8L with 72000 miles.

---

============================

Is this a rotary engine????????

 

[ediamiam]

ifn youse bought the car new, did oci about 3-4 times a year, and used 5w30 or 10w30 in dino, and have no sludge now, most likely you are not doing anything wrong. i wouldn't think an occasional extended oci would be damaging unless you make it a perpetual habit.

Protege is a 4 cyl. Mazda equivalent to a civic/corrolla class. I believe Mazda stopped building rotary cars for the US Market after 93/94 RX7 model year and only again in the last couple of years w/ the RX8

 

[chiks]

I bought this car new in 1999 and it has been running on M1 5w-30 (syn) since the last 50,000 mi.and I have done oil changes every 10,000 miles.

The reason I ask this question is:

1. I want to re-assess my decision
2. Find a cheaper way to get the same results

one concern that brought up this question is the cold start (early morning or after extended stopover) usually results in a longer & harder cranking before the engine gets going and also the no-so-good-to-the-ear sound during the first few minutes.