Which is the best Noack oil? I have these choices:

53' Stude said:
I’m still waiting on answer to my question: define “best”
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Everything is fragmented into oils that are based on different engine types and OEM specs so it's really not answerable. I guess the best you could go for is go with the most demanding oil spec.
 
buster said:
Everything is fragmented into almost niche based oils that are based on different engine types and OEM specs so it's really not answerable. I guess the best you could go for is go with the most demanding oil spec.
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Kinda what I thought. Thank Yiu sir. I just get tired of folks asking “what’s the best oil for me?”
 
buster said:
"Other things to bear in mind are that in terms of additives, polymeric ashless dispersants counter piston deposits, overbased metallic detergents do not"

Some of these Euro lower SA blends are very appealing as they appear to contain the same or higher quality base oils, minus all the overbased metallic additives/detergents. Mobil 1 Triple may fall into this category now with it's unique additive system.

Lubricants with no or very low ash rely on ashless dispersants for max control of insolubles/deposits.

The price of Amsoil Euro 5w30 is $17.99 qt (PC cost is $13.99) Purely speculating but it's possible this is due to these modern chemistries while still retaining the great solvency/oxidation resistance base oils. It's a known fact that the chemistry required for such blends is more costly. Kind of a best of both worlds approach? 🤷‍♂️
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As long as the conditions are conducive to these sorts of oils (lower detergent levels, lower TBN) being used. My Jeep appears to kick the crap out of the TBN (and it's not fuel) of full-SAPS Euro oils just going by the OLM, so I'd be concerned as to the ability of an oil with a less robust additive package being capable of handling this.

Of course the base oil blend of the HPL should prevent any ring land deposits.
 
OVERKILL said:
As long as the conditions are conducive to these sorts of oils (lower detergent levels, lower TBN) being used. My Jeep appears to kick the crap out of the TBN (and it's not fuel) of full-SAPS Euro oils just going by the OLM, so I'd be concerned as to the ability of an oil with a less robust additive package being capable of handling this.

Of course the base oil blend of the HPL should prevent any ring land deposits.
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Good point. I really don't know to be honest. I've never used any of these Euro blends.
 
bringing this one back... :)
NOACK *is* relevant, to me.... considering how hot turbos/bearings get....
RL for a turbo car is what got me as a customer way back when I had my DSM AWD.
Now it's a Bavarian inline Six TT
 
330indy said:
bringing this one back... :)
NOACK *is* relevant, to me.... considering how hot turbos/bearings get....
RL for a turbo car is what got me as a customer way back when I had my DSM AWD.
Now it's a Bavarian inline Six TT
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Well, you’re not likely to find much info on NOACK, because it’s not an acronym. It’s a dude’s last name.

And how many different threads do you have to see that RL is absolutely nothing special these days compared to available alternatives? At best, they paused scientific development it appears. Mobil shelf oil you can buy from any WM has more advanced technology than anything you’d run on the street from Redline.
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
Well, you’re not likely to find much info on NOACK, because it’s not an acronym. It’s a dude’s last name.

And how many different threads do you have to see that RL is absolutely nothing special these days compared to available alternatives? At best, they paused scientific development it appears. Mobil shelf oil you can buy from any WM has more advanced technology than anything you’d run on the street from Redline.
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this proves you know little about Mobil 1 beginnings, and where they are now.
And why should you care about my long affinity for and experience with RL? .... rhetorical question
(I shouldn't feed the troll here)
 
330indy said:
this proves you know little about Mobil 1 beginnings, and where they are now.
And why should you care about my long affinity for and experience with RL? .... rhetorical question
(I shouldn't feed the troll here)
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Why would beginnings matter when we’re talking about today’s performance oils? You completely sidestepped some valid questions to say I’m trolling, which means you either don’t know the answer, or you do and you don’t like admitting it’s not the rosy picture you paint.

Mobil has several oils that meet various performance tiers and emissions requirements and yet have some of the most stringent approvals currently available. Almost all of them are either on the shelf at every WM or can be ordered for delivery. Plus, for the price of 2 quarts of RL you can get 5 quarts of M1.

You can certainly keep using RL if you want to, but Noack is not and never will be the primary (or even tertiary) determining factor of “how good an oil is”. It’s certainly not going to make of break any engine on its own as long as oil level is maintained properly.
 
Deleted member 89374 said:
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic - this one is the best from the bunch you listed, from materials used to blend it (GTL) to the additive package (Infineum).
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I would believe the above reply to be true , however of your choices I believe based on what is available - do not over look the Valvoline Advanced 0W20 as it has a great anti-wear package . VII’s also contribute to intake valve deposits (many suggest more of a culprit than higher NOACK) . However a 0W20 should use less VII’s than higher spread oils (such as a 0W30) . My suggestion is to use the Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 first as it’s the SOPUS premium oil line (over sister oil Quaker State) and the Valvoline Advanced second - both run no more than 3,500 to 4,000 miles / 6 months in mixed driving conditions because of the DI 4 cylinder engine . Then I would see which oil seemed better in your engine in terms of engine noise , how smooth the engine ran , oil consumption , MPG , etc. then choose that oil to run long term . Again - keeping OCI’s on the lower side with a DI engine will keep intake valve deposits in check more so than slight differences in NOACK or VII’s used between the Pennzoil Platinum and the Valvoline Advanced oils .
 
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ChrisD46 said:
keeping OCI’s on the lower side with a DI engine will keep intake valve deposits in check more so than slight differences in NOACK or VII’s used between the Pennzoil Platinum and the Valvoline Advanced oils .
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Agree, but to do all (low OCIs, best oil option) to prevent valve deposits, especially considering high performance DI turbo engines.
 
buster said:
From SonofJoe:

“It usually works like this... Piston deposits can arise from three distinct sources. 1) Decomposition of the VII polymer. The more polymer you have in your oil, the more deposits you tend to get. Synthetic oils tend to contain less VII polymer but you need to be careful how you interpret this. A synthetic 10W30 will contain less VII than a mineral 10W30 but a wide cross-grade synthetic 0W40 may well contain more VII than a narrow cross-grade mineral 10W30. 2) Oxidation of the oil. Unless you're still using an oil based on Group I stocks, you generally don't need to worry about this unless you're into extended OCIs. If you are into extended OCIs, synthetics oxidise less than minerals and will generate less deposits 3) Burnt oil. This could be due to worn valve seals or worn rings. However nowadays, the most likely source of burnt oil is light base stock, stripped out of the crankcase by hot blow-by & recycled through the PCV system. If you want to minimise burnt oil related deposits, use a low Noack oil. Synthetics tend to have lower Noacks than minerals but again you need to be aware of the wide cross-grade vs narrow cross-grade thing. Other things to bear in mind are that in terms of additives, polymeric ashless dispersants counter piston deposits, overbased metallic detergents do not. Heavy oils (or light oils that contain a reasonable amount of very heavy base stock) are way better at preventing piston deposits than light oils. Hope that helps..”

“'ll try and give you the honest answer... In the world of engine oil volatility/oil loss, there are three ways of looking at things. - There's real-life where a oil might spend say 250 hours fluctuating between ambient & 100°C - There's the Noack test which whacks up the oil to an unrealistically high 250°C for just one hour - Finally there are the industry standard engines like the Sequence IIIG which keeps the oil at 150°C for 100 hours on a cyclically operated engine. I can say absolutely categorically that with the industry standard tests (not just the US Sequence IIIG but also the European Peugeot TU5), oil consumption IS very Noack dependant. The correlation isn't perfect but nor would I expect it to be. In both tests, you can see from the used oil analyses, carried out during the test, that the oil is, for want of a better word, 'distilling', with simple, additive-free light base oil exiting the crankcase with the blow-by & leaving all of the heavy stuff in the oil in the sump. This implies true 'evaporation' of oil into the vapour phase; not just physically 'misted' fully formulated oil (although it's quite possible the two look alike to the naked eye). Just to highlight how big a deal this is, on the TU5, the oil contaminated blow-by is not returned to the intake system but cooled, condensed & vented. Put a 15% Noack oil on the TU5 and in 72 hours you might completely empty the sump of oil! However you usually get very clean pistons at end-of-test because no oil has been burnt. On the IIIG, oil contaminated blow-by is (just like on a real car) routed through the PCV/intake system and subsequently burnt. It's impossible to empty the IIIG sump of oil with a 15% Noack oil but I guarantee that the pistons will look diabolical at the end of the test! The big question, one that people like me can't honestly answer, is how does this all relate to real life, where the oil is generally cooler but exposed to hot blow-by for far longer? Instinctively I'd say this is less severe but some oil will ALWAYS get evaporated & burnt because that's how multi-component vapour-liquid equilibrium works. Also real life involves stuff like fuel dilution (something neither the Noack nor industry tests addresses) and the cyclic re-evaporation of condensed gasoline & water from the sump will act to exacerbate the distillation of base oil from the sump. So IMO, if you want clean pistons, think low Noack.”
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Wait... So my Kia Sportage (2.4L GDI with 111k miles) consuming a quart of oil in 500 miles isn't "burning" the oil due to stuck rings but just evaporating, due to extreme heat? Because I never smell burnt oil and there's no smoke out the tail pipe.

I just need to ask because I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 for more than the last 6k miles in the Kia, and some too before that, in another vehicle (Hyundai Sonata with same engine and 90k miles). Before VRP, in the Sonata, I was using Quaker State full synthetics in 5W30 exclusively (started with QSUD, then QSFS High Mileage and finally QSUP) Both cars consume all of these oils at an exhausting rate of about a quart every 500 miles.

The only oils besides Valvoline and Quaker State I've ever used was Royal Purple, one time, in the Sonata, I don't remember how much consumption I had with that. And Amsoil Signature Series, which I tried once and it was burning about a quart every thousand Miles. Which was an improvement, but not worth the price so I figured that was not the solution to my problem. And I bought it after much research for it's impressive specs under the presumption (though I know amsoil doesn't advertise or claim SS can reduce consumption) it would help slow it. down.

Maybe I should try HPL, if that is the case.
 
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MrBaumTastic said:
Wait... So my Kia Sportage (2.4L GDI with 111k miles) consuming a quart of oil in 500 miles isn't "burning" the oil due to stuck rings but just evaporating, due to extreme heat? Because I never smell burnt oil and there's no smoke out the tail pipe.

I just need to ask because I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 for more than the last 6k miles in the Kia, and some too before that, in another vehicle (Hyundai Sonata with same engine and 90k miles). Before VRP, in the Sonata, I was using Quaker State full synthetics in 5W30 exclusively (started with QSUD, then QSFS High Mileage and finally QSUP) Both cars consume all of these oils at an exhausting rate of about a quart every 500 miles.

The only oils besides Valvoline and Quaker State I've ever used was Royal Purple, one time, in the Sonata, I don't remember how much consumption I had with that. And Amsoil Signature Series, which I tried once and it was burning about a quart every thousand Miles. Which was an improvement, but not worth the price so I figured that was not the solution to my problem. And I bought it after much research for it's impressive specs under the presumption (though I know amsoil doesn't advertise or claim SS can reduce consumption) it would help slow it. down.

Maybe I should try HPL, if that is the case.
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You have seen this?

https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/oil-consumption-fixed-but-why.356624/
 
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