Which car to go/which car to stay...VOTE! :)
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And you are telling me that it does not scream repaint at 50 feet? How many hours of labor did it have in that $2000? How many in material? Are you telling me that a paint job rivaling of factory can be done on the whole car in less than $2K of labor + material + prep ?
Paint jobs on a beater are irrelevant.
Its a BEATER! You want bad paint. You don't care when someone nicks it in the parking lot. It looks like there's nothing of value inside. It doesn't need to get washed except when it rains. etc, etc.
Many benefits to owning a cheaper-looking car. Worrying about the cost of a repaint is not even on the list.
To the OP - I don't know. I always thought those era Tbirds were butt ugly, but I guess they look less band now then they did then actually.
Flip a coin?
Try to guesstimate which ones will need less repair $ over the next few years? When's the next Tbelt due, etc...
Its a BEATER! You want bad paint. You don't care when someone nicks it in the parking lot. It looks like there's nothing of value inside. It doesn't need to get washed except when it rains. etc, etc.
Many benefits to owning a cheaper-looking car. Worrying about the cost of a repaint is not even on the list.
To the OP - I don't know. I always thought those era Tbirds were butt ugly, but I guess they look less band now then they did then actually.
Flip a coin?
Try to guesstimate which ones will need less repair $ over the next few years? When's the next Tbelt due, etc...
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Bird. The 4.6 will last forever.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
And you are telling me that it does not scream repaint at 50 feet? How many hours of labor did it have in that $2000? How many in material? Are you telling me that a paint job rivaling of factory can be done on the whole car in less than $2K of labor + material + prep ?
I'm telling you that after repainting my stepfather's 1993 Concorde (medium blue); 3 years later, it looked factory. If I am getting a vehicle painted, it won't even cost that...I'll do all the prep myself. Been there and done that...no factory paint EVER came out as well as my Coupe de Ville, and that is the toughest to get right (base/clear Tuxedo Black). The paint on Liz's GN didn't cost $10K, and that car has four coats of color, two coats of clear, and ghost flames!
And you are telling me that it does not scream repaint at 50 feet? How many hours of labor did it have in that $2000? How many in material? Are you telling me that a paint job rivaling of factory can be done on the whole car in less than $2K of labor + material + prep ?
I'm telling you that after repainting my stepfather's 1993 Concorde (medium blue); 3 years later, it looked factory. If I am getting a vehicle painted, it won't even cost that...I'll do all the prep myself. Been there and done that...no factory paint EVER came out as well as my Coupe de Ville, and that is the toughest to get right (base/clear Tuxedo Black). The paint on Liz's GN didn't cost $10K, and that car has four coats of color, two coats of clear, and ghost flames!
I would keep the T-Bird personally. More interesting, probably has the potential to last much longer, and if you keep it's condition up it probably won't drop much more in value. 4.6/4R70W parts will be available forever.
When something major goes on the Elantra, it's scrap metal. Time to send it off to become someone's hooptie while it passes inspection and drives.
When something major goes on the Elantra, it's scrap metal. Time to send it off to become someone's hooptie while it passes inspection and drives.
If you didn't have the Bimmer, the Elantra would have to go.
The Thunderbird is just way more interesting than an Elantra.
Having the 3-er with the performance package makes the sting of giving up the MN12 a little less painful.....a lot less painful.
The Thunderbird is just way more interesting than an Elantra.
Having the 3-er with the performance package makes the sting of giving up the MN12 a little less painful.....a lot less painful.
get rid of the Tbird and keep the Elantra. Tbird is worn out and old, need lots of work vs the Elantra is reliable and in good condition.
I vote to keep the Elantra. I think it is the practical choice. Pains me to say that though!
Considering all answers, I have decided to ....
Take the Tbird to a shop and get an idea of what's really needed / how bad the oil leak is/determine cause/ to get it to a decent level mechanically (without cosmetic refresh), so I'll have an idea how much it will cost.
(With the Elantra i have a pretty accurate idea of what the costs are to get THAT car into shape).
After the numbers are there for the tbird, it will be a bit easier to choose...
Keep the comments coming - they've been an immense help.
Take the Tbird to a shop and get an idea of what's really needed / how bad the oil leak is/determine cause/ to get it to a decent level mechanically (without cosmetic refresh), so I'll have an idea how much it will cost.
(With the Elantra i have a pretty accurate idea of what the costs are to get THAT car into shape).
After the numbers are there for the tbird, it will be a bit easier to choose...
Keep the comments coming - they've been an immense help.
Update:
heard from the place I brought the Tbird to for an estimate of needed work: (the shop is an indie but almost only works on Fords- i never found this place to be the cheapest BUT they do good work, are honest and run by a former Ford Master tech whom I have known for about 8 yrs now)
so, what he said was: (all quotes includes labor)
of immediate concern:
- ball joints/front brake pads and rotors: about $900
of not so immediate concern:
-- shocks: all 4 (at least one in front in one in back, BUT those OE/OEM parts are not made anymore, so will have to be all 4) - cost depends on what I want, but let's say at least $400??
-- oil leaks from filter adapter gasket, head gasket, VC gaskets (all slow leaks/not major but will have to be done at some point)
-- ATF leak from some rubber seal where it connects to the torque converter (not major/immediate, but again, must be done at some point)
IDK if I heard him right, but he said for all the oil and ATF leak fixes it will around $ 600 ???
Anyways, now you guys have a better idea of what's needed...
I'd like to hear new comments considering this new info.
heard from the place I brought the Tbird to for an estimate of needed work: (the shop is an indie but almost only works on Fords- i never found this place to be the cheapest BUT they do good work, are honest and run by a former Ford Master tech whom I have known for about 8 yrs now)
so, what he said was: (all quotes includes labor)
of immediate concern:
- ball joints/front brake pads and rotors: about $900
of not so immediate concern:
-- shocks: all 4 (at least one in front in one in back, BUT those OE/OEM parts are not made anymore, so will have to be all 4) - cost depends on what I want, but let's say at least $400??
-- oil leaks from filter adapter gasket, head gasket, VC gaskets (all slow leaks/not major but will have to be done at some point)
-- ATF leak from some rubber seal where it connects to the torque converter (not major/immediate, but again, must be done at some point)
IDK if I heard him right, but he said for all the oil and ATF leak fixes it will around $ 600 ???
Anyways, now you guys have a better idea of what's needed...
I'd like to hear new comments considering this new info.
Head gaskets might be expensive at a shop, but since this is a third car you don't need to drive everyday, maybe it's something you could take on yourself and save a lot of money on? $600 for all those leaks seems low if it includes head gaskets, I'd double check that price. The trans would need to be dropped to replace the seal, so that one is probably best left to a shop. The oil filter adapter and VC gaskets would probably not be too bad to do at home.
If they use quality ball joints, that's a one time job and their price isn't out of line.
The Hyundai probably is more practical, but will you actually use it if you keep it, or will it just sit there? The T-Bird can at least be a cushy weekend cruiser, and you could throw a hitch on it if you ever needed to tow anything. It sounds like all these repairs can be done at your leisure, and some might even make for good weekend projects. Given that this is a third car, I'm still leaning towards the Bird.
If they use quality ball joints, that's a one time job and their price isn't out of line.
The Hyundai probably is more practical, but will you actually use it if you keep it, or will it just sit there? The T-Bird can at least be a cushy weekend cruiser, and you could throw a hitch on it if you ever needed to tow anything. It sounds like all these repairs can be done at your leisure, and some might even make for good weekend projects. Given that this is a third car, I'm still leaning towards the Bird.
I must be honest, I am not very mechanically inclined so I don't think I can tackle any of those repairs at home...
About the Hyundai just sitting: it won't just sit there - we use our beater/3rd car quite often...
Bump for some more votes after the update on Tbird's potention costs....
About the Hyundai just sitting: it won't just sit there - we use our beater/3rd car quite often...
Bump for some more votes after the update on Tbird's potention costs....
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I would probably get rid of both and use your other two cars.
Neither the 'bird nor the Elantra owe you very much at this point and both are of an age and mileage where future repair costs and reliability are a bit of a dice roll, particularly for a guy who admits to a lack of mechanical ability and who will be pressed for time for the foreseeable future.
You seem to have abandoned the notion of doing a complete refresh of the 'bird, which is just as well if the car will be used regularly in place of your two newer ones and will have to live outdoors.
Use that BMW and the new 6.
That's what they were made for and that's the only reason to have them.
They won't stay pristine forever unless you rarely take them out of the garage.
While I do know people who usually drive a beater while their good car remains a garage queen, I've never understood that.
Why spend money on a transportation tool that's worth less every day and then not use the 200K and fifteen or so years of utility that it offers?
If the piece is fun to drive, that's just icing on the cake.
Neither the 'bird nor the Elantra owe you very much at this point and both are of an age and mileage where future repair costs and reliability are a bit of a dice roll, particularly for a guy who admits to a lack of mechanical ability and who will be pressed for time for the foreseeable future.
You seem to have abandoned the notion of doing a complete refresh of the 'bird, which is just as well if the car will be used regularly in place of your two newer ones and will have to live outdoors.
Use that BMW and the new 6.
That's what they were made for and that's the only reason to have them.
They won't stay pristine forever unless you rarely take them out of the garage.
While I do know people who usually drive a beater while their good car remains a garage queen, I've never understood that.
Why spend money on a transportation tool that's worth less every day and then not use the 200K and fifteen or so years of utility that it offers?
If the piece is fun to drive, that's just icing on the cake.
As others have said, getting rid of both probably makes the most sense. That said, I understand keeping a spare beater around, especially one you know well and have maintained. Low insurance and taxes on it so nice to have as a back up, at least for now.
Considering all that has been posted regarding what maintenance each needs, fuel economy, and future costs etc, hands down I'd keep the Elantra. Not really an earth shattering decision though either way as it's only a back up beater. But keeping the Elantra would be my choice.
Considering all that has been posted regarding what maintenance each needs, fuel economy, and future costs etc, hands down I'd keep the Elantra. Not really an earth shattering decision though either way as it's only a back up beater. But keeping the Elantra would be my choice.
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