which 40 weight

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thinking of trying a Xw40 in a rather high mileage Ford DOHC 4.6. (mach 1 mustang)
Do you like/suggest one over the other ? why ?

driving style is overly aggresive, and temps here are dipping into the 30's and wont get much lower than hi teens during the winter months Im sure.

thanks.
 
M1 0w40 would be my choice.

However, if the factory recommended oil weight doesn't burn off, I would use that.

Have you done a UOA?
 
Rotella or Delo 5w40 synthetics, both are thicker and will resist shear better than the Mobil 0w40.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Rotella or Delo 5w40 synthetics, both are thicker and will resist shear better than the Mobil 0w40.


+1 for Rotella T6! It's not too expensive, and readily available. It has high levels of detergent and anti-wear additives. What's not to like?
 
Living in Georgia, for a high mileage stang, with agressive driving, and looking for something a little thicker? I think Rotella T5 10w30 would be a perfect choice
grin.gif


Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.

I just bought a few jugs on sale at WM recently @ $12.95.
 
Going to be a real shame when your valves take that DOHC 4.6 with it, fix the valve guides
 
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Exactly, I don't recommend the hugh jump to a 40wt oil.
You haven't said if you have any issues with your engine other than it has high mileage? High mileage alone is not sufficient reason to deviate from the spec' 5W-20 grade oil.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.


Agreed. Rather than jumping way up to a 40 grade, if a heavier grade is needed (and we still don't know that it is), the Rotella 10w-30 is at least a smaller jump. By the way, do your Walmarts have this, or are you cheating and going south?
 
Originally Posted By: Brons2
M1 0w40 would be my choice.



Mine too...
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: webfors
Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.


Agreed. Rather than jumping way up to a 40 grade, if a heavier grade is needed (and we still don't know that it is), the Rotella 10w-30 is at least a smaller jump. By the way, do your Walmarts have this, or are you cheating and going south?



US border town just south of Ottawa. They also have an advance auto, Napa and a large lowes which comes in handy. Bought a kerosene heater for $130, same one at CT was $299
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Living in Georgia, for a high mileage stang, with agressive driving, and looking for something a little thicker? I think Rotella T5 10w30 would be a perfect choice
grin.gif


Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.

I just bought a few jugs on sale at WM recently @ $12.95.


Correction, 100 degree cst is 12, not 11.5.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: webfors
Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.


Agreed. Rather than jumping way up to a 40 grade, if a heavier grade is needed (and we still don't know that it is), the Rotella 10w-30 is at least a smaller jump. By the way, do your Walmarts have this, or are you cheating and going south?

It may as well be a 40wt oil. Due to it's low VI it's heavier than M1 0W-40 on start-up even on the hottest summer days in Georgia.
Heck, even a light 5W-30 PCMO is heavier than necessary and the OP hasn't even said why he thinks he needs to run a heavier oil!
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: webfors
Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.


Agreed. Rather than jumping way up to a 40 grade, if a heavier grade is needed (and we still don't know that it is), the Rotella 10w-30 is at least a smaller jump. By the way, do your Walmarts have this, or are you cheating and going south?

It may as well be a 40wt oil. Due to it's low VI it's heavier than M1 0W-40 on start-up even on the hottest summer days in Georgia.


Not by much, and for a fraction of the price.

Quote:
Heck, even a light 5W-30 PCMO is heavier than necessary and the OP hasn't even said why he thinks he needs to run a heavier oil!


Agreed, no need for a 40 weight.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440

+1 for Rotella T6! It's not too expensive, and readily available. It has high levels of detergent and anti-wear additives. What's not to like?


It doesn't come in a 5 quart bottle.
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: webfors
Tt's a great oil, HTHS of 3.5+, cst of 11.5 and shear resistant. Turned out great UOA results for me this past summer.


Agreed. Rather than jumping way up to a 40 grade, if a heavier grade is needed (and we still don't know that it is), the Rotella 10w-30 is at least a smaller jump. By the way, do your Walmarts have this, or are you cheating and going south?

It may as well be a 40wt oil. Due to it's low VI it's heavier than M1 0W-40 on
start-up even on the hottest summer days in Georgia.


Not by much, and for a fraction of the price.

Quote:
Heck, even a light 5W-30 PCMO is heavier than necessary and the OP hasn't even said why he thinks he needs to run a heavier oil!


Agreed, no need for a 40 weight.


The op has a Mach 1. It's got a 4.6 dohc engine. He has valve guide issues which is why he is asking about a 40 grade. He is hoping to slow the wear in the guides until he can get them fixed.
And I've been running various 40 grades in my 2v mustang. It had 20000kms when I got it. I pulled it last month in favour of a 4v engine. My cams looked new with 140000 kms on them. In fact they look better than the 4v engine I am putting in right now and the 4v had 30000 kms in the engine.
The new engine has only ever used the suggested 5w-20 grade oil. Once I install and start driving it again I will be using a 0w-40 again.
I've seen with my own eyes what thin oils do in these engines. If they were driven with a light foot then a 20 grade is more than adequate however if you drive it like it's meant to be driven then the 20 grade gets too hot and the oil film is compromised.
I will be trying a caterham blend though. The Mazda 0w-20 at 20% until I burn through my stash. By then someone will have the ultimate 20 grade invented and film strength vs heat will be a non issue.
 
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