When are synthetics really needed?

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When are synthetics really needed?

When the service duty (be it extreme climate or extreme demand - turbo- engine design characteristic) is present that can't be satisfied by conventional oil.

When the drains are long enough to justify the expense. This may be independent of conventional oil's capability for length of service. It has more to do with the norms of the user.
 
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q: When are synthetics really needed?
a: Never

Conventional oil (in current SAE formulations) work great. Even the cheap stuff. At 3-5k OCI's you're flushing the oil WELL before it's going bad, so you're not taking advantage of synthetic's major selling point - it's longer OCI's. So, it's only going to be marginally better than conventional oil for you (might provide a little better protection on startup for example).

I'm going to make up some ballpark numbers - change them according to your driving / OCI / preferred brand of oil:
4 annual oil changes + $3 more per quart x 5 quarts = $60

The question you should be asking yourself is, "Do I believe marginally superior engine protection justifies the $60 more a year for oil changes?"

Some will answer "yes" some will answer "no", but it's all personal prefrence.




Not many cold starts at 40 below in Sacramento, eh?
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For me? Because it gives me just a *tad* more confidence that I can reach 300K or more with a clean, shiny, smooth-running engine than with a dino. No, I don't know that for sure, and yes, I know many have done that mileage and more on dino. But how much further or better would it have been with synthetic? Truth is, no one really knows. Most other stuff will be shot by then anyway.

I'm willing to pay an extra $.50 per quart for the peace of mind. But $3.00 more per quart? No thanks.

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Under what conditions would most people use a synthetic oil.



I use high end Synthetic in my cars, because I found the performance is better AND it's more economical for me. The better performance is hard to quantify, but it's clearly noticable when driving the cars (the cars are just more "responsive", not to mention "quieter", when stepping on the gas). And the better starting in the winter (i.e. the cold) is also very noticable.

Why is it cheaper, you ask? Because the combo of good synthetic and extra-good oil filtration, lets me greatly increase my OCI (even Mobil-1 seems to be good for around 10k OCI, when combined with decent filtration, and I'm hoping/expecting the Amsoil oil to go even further). And the cost savings from fewer oil changes (part of that being labor cost savings, as I don't change my own oil), more than makes up for the extra oil and filter costs.

And that analysis doesn't even take into consideration the fact that I seem to get slightly better gas mileage on synthetic (vs what I was getting with dino). It's hard to quantify, but the benefit seems to be there. And if I'm even saving a percent or two of gas, that's got to be "worth it" with today's gas prices.

So for me, a good synthetic is a clear "win-win", in that it costs less (then more frequent oil changes with dino) to use, as well as giving me results that I prefer.

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I'm not trying to start a war but if you change your oil every 3-5K miles your car/truck should last atleast 200K.



And that's probably true. And from that perspective, synthetic really isn't "needed" in most cases.

However, as others have said, there is little debate that synthetics work better. The only real question becomes, is it enough better to "justify the cost". And that is clearly a more YMMV thing.

But for me, I've driven every one of our vehicles with dino oil and with synthetic. And without exception, the cars/trucks seem to "drive better" (quieter, more performance when I step on the gas, etc) on the synthetic. And since I have to change the synthetic less often, the synthetic actually doesn't cost me anything more to use. So for me, the choice is obvious.

However, which approach you choose to go with (short OCIs with dino, or longer OCIs with synthetic and better filters), is really up to the individual to decide. But for me, I would much rather have a long lasting oil and filter, and change it less often, than go to iffy-lube every few weeks. My wife and I really do put a lot of miles on our "commuter cars", and neither of us likes to change oil. So for us, the ability to extend out OCIs is actually a real "time savings" for us, above and beyond the cost savings (and better performance) of the synthetic.

BTW:
Even my wife is sold on the better performance we appear to get from the synthetics. About the only times we still run dino in any vehicles we own (we even have synthetic oil in the lawn mower), is on those few occasions when we are doing an Auto-RX cleaning/rinse (since Auto-RX cleans/rinses better on dino). But the last time we did this, my wife was just waiting for the Auto-RX treatment to be completed, so we could go back to the performance we get out of the synthetics...
 
Doesn't long oci ability of a oil have more to do with tbn than if it's a synthetic or not? being synthetic is no guarantee of high tbn. A synthetic with depleted additive 9 or 10k down the road is saving no money. Just because some synthetic oil are built to go the distance doesn't mean they all are. And I'm aware of no high tbn oils that are also energy conserving as spec'd by many manufactures, although many will "work".
 
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Doesn't long oci ability of a oil have more to do with tbn than if it's a synthetic or not?



TBN is important for long OCIs, as it's clearly "a bad thing" when your oil's ability to neutralize acids depletes (and therefore those acids produced as a side-effect of combustion can start to eat away at your engine block).

However, the ability to neutralize acids, is only one important oil ability that depletes over time (with use). And so, while TBN is important, there is much more to long OCI oil then just TBN.

And while some of the desirable features (TBN, for example) of a long life oil are part of the additive package, some other desirable features (resistance to sheer, for example) are part of the base oil. And generally speaking a synthetic has much better base oil properties than a dino oil does. So even if you managed to find a dino oil with a additive package as good as some better synthetics have, that dino oil would still not have as good "base oil" properties as the synthetic had.

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being synthetic is no guarantee of high tbn.



True.

Clearly if you want a long life synthetic, TBN is one factor you should be looking for. However, it's not the only desirable feature you need/want in a long life oil!

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A synthetic with depleted additive 9 or 10k down the road is saving no money.



A synthetic that goes 10k mile OCIs is still likely to save money vs a dino changed at 3k-5k miles.

However, you are correct that a synthetic that is built to last 20k-35k, is likely to be even cheaper to use than a cheaper (good for maybe 10,000 mile) synthetic, even though the 20k-35k synthetic might cost even more per quart (than the cheaper synthetic does).

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Just because some synthetic oil are built to go the distance doesn't mean they all are.



Very true. So it helps to shop around for quality.

However, most synthetics are designed to last longer than most dino oils. And that's true even of cheaper synthetics, much less the extra OCIs you can get out of premium synthetics.

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And I'm aware of no high tbn oils that are also energy conserving as spec'd by many manufactures, although many will "work".



If I'm not mistaking, Amsoil's TSO 0w30 is rated for fuel conservation. And that particular synthetic is clearly rated for long OCIs (up to 35,000 miles or one year, under normal driving conditions).
 
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