Wheel alignment specs for 2007 Kia Sortage wanted

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I rotated my tires today and noticed the fronts were wearing more on the outside shoulders. Rears were fine. I'm getting the wheel alignment checked next week. Can anyone give me the front and rear alignment specs? I've looked in the manual but I can't find 'em. BTW I've kept the tires at 31 psi.
 
How does car handle right now? I am looking for specs for the 12 honda fit with a similar issue - no excess wear but flakey handling and a tendency to pull left over the crown. I plan to toe out my right (PS) wheel a 1/16 turn. You can do minor toe yourself easy.
 
http://www.advantagewheelalignment.com/images/Wheel_ Alignment_ Specs.pdf

That car has adjustable rear alignment, so be sure you get 4-wheel alignment. The Hunter alignment system that many shops use has the specs programmed in, as well as the location of the adjusters and probably the wrench sizes needed. I like the caster set to the allowable max, not the middle of the range and never the allowable minimum, for better driving feel. The tech can get the camber and toe set at the center of the range and the caster at the max if he wants to...you need to inspire him. Don't let him make an allowance for cambered roads...not needed with modern tires.
 
Originally Posted By: berniedd
I rotated my tires today and noticed the fronts were wearing more on the outside shoulders. Rears were fine. I'm getting the wheel alignment checked next week. Can anyone give me the front and rear alignment specs? I've looked in the manual but I can't find 'em. BTW I've kept the tires at 31 psi.


Now that Ken posted the alignment specs:

1) The rear camber spec is a little high. My experience is that anytime camber gets above 1°, there can be tire wear problems.

2) As is typical, the toe specs are too wide. - but since toe is easy to fix, make sure they set the toe to the center of the spec.
 
Great site! Thanks! I looked at a few cars' and the Kia 2005-2008 Sportage (mine's a 2 liter, 2007) rear toe, why are there 3 numbers there? Numbers I've seen in the past for most vehicles have only 2 figures, the desired configuration (first figure) and the ± tolerance (second figure).

Arco, handling is fine.
 
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I wonder if the rear camber (and often the front camber) is even adjustable. They might set specs just to show if anything's worn or bent. That rear camber might straighten up with a load in the car.

The three figures show that you can have only one third as much tolerance under the spec as you can have over the spec. 0.18" is the desired spec, but they say that down to 0.14" is OK or up to 0.30" is OK. The spec range is just to make the job easy for a lazy tech. The tech can hit any spot within the spec and certainly the center of the range (subject to wear or damage) to give the best results as CR is describing. I've had techs argue that they have to set at the center when I wanted the max caster. Nope, they are legally OK anywhere within the spec range, and I'll sign the work order telling them where I want it set within the spec range.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
http://www.advantagewheelalignment.com/images/Wheel_ Alignment_ Specs.pdf

That car has adjustable rear alignment, so be sure you get 4-wheel alignment. The Hunter alignment system that many shops use has the specs programmed in, as well as the location of the adjusters and probably the wrench sizes needed. I like the caster set to the allowable max, not the middle of the range and never the allowable minimum, for better driving feel. The tech can get the camber and toe set at the center of the range and the caster at the max if he wants to...you need to inspire him. Don't let him make an allowance for cambered roads...not needed with modern tires.


Good advice. Re read this.
 
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