What's everyone's favorite 0w-20 these days?

0w20 and 0w20 speced vehicles have proved themselves. I think it is time for the thickies here to start respecting it lol. I am the example that 0w16 should also be respected, 200k miles is no joke.
 
Nevertheless, an oil with a higher HT/HS always results in less wear. Whether it matters to anyone or if it is significant to them is another issue. An oil with a higher grade also helps to mitigate the detrimental effects of fuel dilution, which are not necessarily illustrated in a $35 UOA. Fuel dilution is always bad on multiple levels.

Unless a small improvement in fuel consumption is your one and only goal then there is no downside to using a higher grade. Sometimes people seem to think that thinner oils are somehow beneficial to the engine or "better", which isn't true. This is illustrated by the fact that design changes are made to keep -16 or -8 grades from causing unacceptable wear.

My Tiguan for example, is better off with a 504 00 approved oil than it is with a 508 00.
 
0w20 and 0w20 speced vehicles have proved themselves. I think it is time for the thickies here to start respecting it lol. I am the example that 0w16 should also be respected, 200k miles is no joke.
200k should be just broken in. There's no acceptable reason for a well designed modern engine not to go 300k and more on cheap semi synthetic oil.
 
PUP 0W - 20 with a Fram Ultra and change when the OLM of my 2016 CRV reads 20 %, which is about 3,500 miles and about 10 months.

I know it's overkill, but I do use almost full throttle when fully warmed up and climbing long hills sometimes. It will give all of its 185 HP if asked, and does it very smoothly.

The 2.4 L in it, with the CVT in Sport mode, is a sleeper that many have no idea of how well it pulls.

PUP and fuel injectors that are kept extra clean by using the maintance dose of 4.45 mL of Red-Line SI - 1 per gallon before each fill and 3/4 of a bottle every 10 K miles, helps it stay running very well.
 
Last edited:
200k should be just broken in. There's no acceptable reason for a well designed modern engine not to go 300k and more on cheap semi synthetic oil.
I agree, but that's not their warranted performance. The owners hold the bag of risk beyond such.
 
Why spend the money for Red Line if what you’re after is increased HT/HS? Just use a higher grade. ESP in a -30 grade for example.

Available at Walmart for $28 and a guaranteed 3.5 minimum HT/HS. Best of both worlds. Or a Euro -40 grade for the same price.
You’d think this would be beyond obvious on BITOG …
 
HPL Premium Plus. The cold temperature properties are amazing even if I will never need them. My daily driver is a PHEV that will start the ICE if I get too aggressive with the accelerator pedal. Having an oil that can get places fast is important when you are going to near max power within seconds of starting a cold engine at zero degrees F.
A PHEV or any hybrid is a textbook case IMO of where the premium PPPCMO is worth it. The superior "cold flow" properties that help you at -50C also help you at +15C when constantly starting and stopping.

Instead of running a cheap 0w8 or 0w12, a premium 0w20 can give you superior protection with similar startup pressure response.
 
A PHEV or any hybrid is a textbook case IMO of where the premium PPPCMO is worth it. The superior "cold flow" properties that help you at -50C also help you at +15C when constantly starting and stopping.

Instead of running a cheap 0w8 or 0w12, a premium 0w20 can give you superior protection with similar startup pressure response.
Can you explain this a little more? For example what does a “similar startup pressure response mean”?

And also how does the “premium PPPCMO” help at +15C over another oil of the same grade?
 
Back
Top Bottom