What's causing this strut to make a knocking sound?

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Apr 27, 2010
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Suburban Washington DC
On a 2019 Civic Type R that has lowering springs. There is a popping noise from the right front when taking off, forward or backwards. And more likely with the steering wheel turned to the right. Short youtube at:



and you can hear the pop at 13 25 and 37 seconds. It's much louder in person than the video makes it seem.

I have the front on jack stands and pried up on the tire. Get some play at the top of the spring:



Any idea what's loose? The nuts that attach the strut to the body at the top are tight.
 
Remove and complete your inspection.
It sure looks like the pop is coming from the top.
Loosened bearing plate?

Somehow assembled with a crooked or binding part which straightened out and came free? EX: An alloy wheel fit so tightly, I failed to seat it squarely on the hub. The 5 lugs appeared to tighten, but the wheel freed up and wobbled after 10 miles of driving.
 
I rotated the spring by hand ( are you even supposed to be able to do that?) and it's really loose:


Something is wrong up top. Are the 3 strut unit bolts tight?
The mount and strut should not be be moving in the frame.

Bad or incorrect strut bearings.
 
I mean, before shaking it like that, I rotated the spring relative to the the rubber mount it sits on.
First, the knocking sound is the upper strut bearing. It's either improperly installed, incompatible with the strut, or has failed.

If you were actually able to rotate the spring, that's possible when people put lowering springs in cars. Sometimes lowering springs are too short to firmly seat into the upper and lower perches/pads when the suspension is at full droop. With poorly designed springs or incompatible or improperly matched components - specifically lowering springs and struts - the springs will sometimes flop loosely when the suspension is at full droop. This is not good.

To get around the "too short" spring issue is why many aftermarket lowering springs are progressively wound. A progressively wound spring enables the spring to be long enough that it remains seated on its upper and lower perches when the suspension is at full droop, but when the car is lowered the closely wound coils become "coil bound" and are effectively no longer part of the spring's overall stiffness at ride height. From the rust patterns on your springs you can see those coils are "coil bound". Understand, being coil bound like that is not necessarily a bad thing with lowering springs. The goal of the progressive spring design is to keep the spring seated on its perches when the suspension is at full droop.

Anyway, your upper strut mount/bearing is either bad or mismatched relative to the strut. And BTW, since you were able to rotate the spring, make sure it's proper aligned on the perches (pay special attention the lower perch and pad) before lowering the car.

Edit: One last comment. You said you verified the strut mount was tight to the body. Be sure to check that the strut rod is tight in the bearing. Doing this often requires a "crow's foot" tool to tighten the nut on the strut rod, a tool which people might not have. As a consequence the nut on the strut rod will not be fully tightened and will work its way loose over time.

Scott
 
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Have the strut apart. The top mount is just a steel stamping and looks fine,

IMG_6390.webp


IMG_6389.webp


The bearing is a plastic ring.

IMG_6391.webp


Will replace that and the rubber upper and lower spring seats.
 
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